Random questions to which you seek an answer
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How does IH determine which items will remain as extant core items and which ones will have a limited release? Is it based off of the availabilty of a given fabric from the mill you work with? Also, does Haraki-san come up with color ideas for all your flannels or does the mill produce samples for you guys to pick from? I'm always impressed with the colorways IH comes up with so was curious how they come about.
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The first question requires far too a complex answer for me to be bothered typing it out. If we ever meet, I am more than happy to talk about it.
In the main, Haraki with help from Tom, will dream up the colour-ways and commission the weaving. I come up with a few ideas, and forum members sometimes come up with an idea that is worth pursuing (e.g. @jdl1279 came up with the concept of the faded flamingo ombré). Occasionally H will stumble across a fabric that he loves (IHSH-129 and IHSH-170), then we buy it as a finished fabric.
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A series of questions that might strum up quite a bit of commotion or conversation:
Is selvedge denim inherently "better" than non-selvedge denim? Does it actually make for a better product in the sense of "stronger denim", or a stronger end item (The finished pair of jeans)? There's the argument that using the selvedge keeps the end of the denim for the outer leg seam sealed, so it won't fray, but, isn't the stitch used for the out seam inferior construction anyway, compared to a felled seam? It seems to me that if it were about quality/quality of construction, a felled seam would be used on the inner and outer seams (Like with all of the IH work pants*), regardless of the fabric being selvedge or non-selvedge.
*Particularly, I would like to point out that the fabric used for the IH-704 and IH-714 is a selvedge fabric, as seen on the fly detail, but there is no selvedge detail showing on the outer leg seam.
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There's some seriously crap selvedge denim and some seriously brilliant non-selvedge denim out there. Haraki's first Iron Heart jeans were the IH-634, made out of non-selvedge 21oz denim. Haraki would argue that he can make a better cut using non-selvedge because the constraint of a straight outseam is removed….Though of course, as you suggest, he could fell the seams.......
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There's some seriously crap selvedge denim and some seriously brilliant non-selvedge denim out there. Haraki's first Iron Heart jeans were the IH-634, made out of non-selvedge 21oz denim. Haraki would argue that he can make a better cut using non-selvedge because the constraint of a straight outseam is removed….Though of course, as you suggest, he could fell the seams.......
So, in the case of IH and the 634 vs 634S, is there any REAL incentive to getting the 634S, aside form the selvedge "badge of honor"? Though they aren't identical, I imagine they're both damn good denims, and that both jeans are made to the same standards of construction.
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About two years ago I worked out that the hand of the fabric was more important to me than selvedge ID. The realisation started when I got my 666D and was fully realised when I got my 714's (which are selvedge but only have the detail in the fly, not the outseam).
That being said I enjoy the aesthetic of the selvedge ID, but far more so on shirts and jackets now. The selvedge cuff and side seam gussets on the IHSH-67, 118 and 119 are all sublime details, and the selvedge seam on interior of the 13oz riders jacket (which is an absolute bargain in the outlet btw) is so very, very, pretty.
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The "hand" is very important for me, especially the slubby stuff… I personally am IN LOVE with pretty much anything by PBJ... Their cuts are just either too slim, or too relaxed. A dream jean for me would be PBJ fabric, with an IH cut/construction. I would drop money on that without even thinking about it.
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The "hand" is very important for me, especially the slubby stuff… I personally am IN LOVE with pretty much anything by PBJ... Their cuts are just either too slim, or too relaxed. A dream jean for me would be PBJ fabric, with an IH cut/construction. I would drop money on that without even thinking about it.
I don't own any PBJ jeans but I agree that they would excel as a brand if their fits were like IH. Every fit chart i've looked at simply doesn't work for me – either the thighs/knees are too slim, or the hem is too big (in relation to the thighs/knees). If they had denim with consistent fits like IH i'd buy their jeans. Right now I have the houndstooth type 2 and the deep indigo type 2, both of which are cut kinda weird.
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Earlier,today,I asked for my jeans to be hemmed with a different color,and G sent me an email wanting to know if I wanted needle and bobbin,or just bobbin.I'm embarrassed to say,I had absolutely no idea as to what he was talking about, or what the ramifications of my answer could be. I asked him to take care of it,as he thought best, which he did. Can someone,or G, please explain. Thanks!
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In a standard sewing machine, there are two threads. The top thread, which runs through the needle, is the one seen on the outside of your jeans. The bobbin, a small spool in the bed of the machine, holds the thread that is seen on the inside of your jeans.
In this illustration, you can see the way it all works. The needle thread is the green one on top, the bobbin thread is the blue one on bottom.
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I should mention that a Union Special 43200G, which is what Giles uses for chainstitch hemming, works slightly differently from a technical perspective, but the practical impact is the same, just to be pedantic and more annoying than usual…
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Purely cosmetic.
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Does anyone know where to get viberg or similar quality leather boot laces in the uk? (preferably)
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hangs head in shame and adds to cart
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I would agree. Mine have been through the ringer and the leather is still holding up phenomenally. Mine are currently in a pair of Red Wings and I fear they may outlast the boots themselves.
