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Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

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  • G
    grandmasterben
    Joined: 27 Aug 2011

    I don't understand why chainstitching machines exist that make a really wide hem.  Case in point:

    Vs

    So annoying, I'm literally afraid to get my jeans chainstitched for fear that the hem will look like the first picture. Seriously, it looks so terrible, is rather do it myself at this point!

    last edited by 30 Mar 2015, 21:43 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
    • M
      mclaincausey
      見習いボス
      Joined: 12 Apr 2013

      Yeah, I got burned on that by SELA as a matter of fact, not happy with the hem on my 5105s. Iron Heart does a much better job.

      Think it, be it.

      last edited by 30 Mar 2015, 21:51 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • A
        Arabit
        Joined: 19 Jun 2012

        Here is mine done at SELA.

        last edited by 30 Mar 2015, 22:08 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • M
          mclaincausey
          見習いボス
          Joined: 12 Apr 2013

          Sweet, nice tension, actual roping.

          Mine:

          That hem eliminates what's so cool about Union Special chainstitched hemming. No horizontal tension (to create a roping effect) and the hem is too wide. If shipping weren't so costly I was going to send them to Giles.

          Versus IH:

          Think it, be it.

          last edited by 30 Mar 2015, 22:48 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • Q
            Quoise
            Joined: 4 Nov 2012

            I had my Mister Freedom 64 Okinawas chainstitched at a local place in Chicago (the only place here with a Union Special), and it's probably the worst hem job I've seen. The hem is probably a half inch wide with absolutely zero roping, the distance between each stitch is absurdly small. and the width of the stitch itself is wider than any i've ever seen.

            I'd have been more pissed about it, but I'm guessing it's partly due to the fact that they rethreaded the machine to match the olive stitch that comes stock on these. I didn't ask for this, but I appreciate the effort. I would have preferred a yellow stitch with more pronounced roping.

            last edited by 31 Mar 2015, 04:13 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • G
              Giles
              IHUK Crew
              Joined: 22 Sept 2009

              It is the hem folder that causes the roping, NOT the actual chainstitch or chainstitching mahcine itself.  It is relatively easy to chainstich a hem, even on a Union Special 42300G, without a folder and cause no roping.

              The roping is caused by the feeder on the stitching bed of the sewing machine pulling the bottom piece of fabric forwards, the folder forces the double hem through what is effectively a small hole.  That retards the progress of the top 2 layers of hem.  It is that conflict between the bottom piece of fabric moving freely and the top 2 layers being retarded that causes the roping….

              "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

              last edited by 31 Mar 2015, 05:03 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • G
                grandmasterben
                Joined: 27 Aug 2011

                Is it very difficult to adjust the width of the hem folder permanently? It seems most here prefer a narrower hem, so I'd be surprised that retailers wouldn't get on that.  But I saw on twitter that all se locations now chainstitch to 3/8", which is great!

                last edited by 31 Mar 2015, 06:00 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • G
                  Giles
                  IHUK Crew
                  Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                  Depends what sort of folder you have.  On most it is a piece of piss…....It's undo a bolt, move folder stop, do up bolt.....

                  "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                  last edited by 31 Mar 2015, 06:05 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • F
                    FOXY
                    Joined: 14 Mar 2011

                    Like Giles said - usually, the folders are not variable: separate folder for a different width.
                    I seem to remember that there were at least 2 different original folders out there. Also, there have been a few aftermarket options and, not to mention, attempts to retro-fit the D,  F or J models of the machine family in the meantime…

                    last edited by 31 Mar 2015, 06:18 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • G
                      Giles
                      IHUK Crew
                      Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                      Actually @FOXY , I mean't it was pretty easy.

                      Most of the after market models (I have seen and own anyway) have a bolt for adjusting width…

                      This one is ridiculously expensive, but it does have hem width adjustment capability...

                      http://www.ebay.com/itm/Union-Special-43200G-Bottom-Hemming-Folder-Assembly-Attachment-SEWING-MACHINE-/271693889999

                      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                      last edited by 31 Mar 2015, 06:41 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • M
                        mclaincausey
                        見習いボス
                        Joined: 12 Apr 2013

                        Yep, I understand the differential tension causing the roping, I don't really care if the dog ate SELA's homework, I just want a good hem. It's a shame to mar an investment of several hundred dollars with anything less. The only place I trust now is IH. I know Railcar can do it as well but I think they can have extended turnaround.

                        So, random announcement, I'm wearing my 3W herringbone with the white runoff threads and someone tells me they had no idea I was Jewish. After a few moments of thorough confusion I figured out they thought the runoff threads were little tzitzits.

                        Shabbat shalom!

                        Think it, be it.

                        last edited by 31 Mar 2015, 13:49 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • S
                          seawolf
                          Mod Squad
                          Joined: 28 Oct 2011

                          SESF did an outstanding job hemming my 634S 3 years ago.

                          Bwahahahaha!! Shabbat Shalom!

                          “Good design is actually a lot harder to notice than poor design, in part because good designs fit our needs so well that the design is invisible” - Don Norman

                          @zeebeeleather

                          last edited by 31 Mar 2015, 14:28 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • C
                            Chris
                            Raw and Unwashed
                            Joined: 28 Jun 2010

                            You're thinking Furious 7 is going to be dumb.  Really, really dumb.  So preposterous that it's literally laughable.  You would be correct.

                            And it's awesome.

                            last edited by 3 Apr 2015, 23:41 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • A
                              Anesthetist
                              見習いボス
                              Joined: 14 May 2011

                              @Chris:

                              You're thinking Furious 7 is going to be dumb.  Really, really dumb.  So preposterous that it's literally laughable.  You would be correct.

                              And it's awesome.

                              You are onto something. Even my wife wants to see this movie.

                              IG: bluehandsslim

                              last edited by 4 Apr 2015, 00:17 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • D
                                deadendpro
                                啓蒙家
                                Joined: 17 Feb 2010

                                there is a fellow Iron Heart wearer that lives in my same apartment complex. I've told him nice jeans at least twice, but he was still distant. we both like something bro, i'm not going to be mean to you.  😉

                                Oakland, CA 9XX11

                                Currently Wearing:
                                SExSx3s 27-01
                                15.4oz 3sixteen Type 3
                                25oz Samurai Type 1

                                last edited by 4 Apr 2015, 02:23 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • G
                                  Graeme
                                  啓蒙家
                                  Joined: 30 Mar 2012

                                  ISIS has banned skinny jeans according to the Daily Mail! :o

                                  http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-3024254/Jail-hipsters-ISIS-threatens-imprison-men-caught-wearing-SKINNY-JEANS-having-music-mobile-phones-smoking.html

                                  Looks like the Iron Heart Army isn't welcome in Syria!

                                  last edited by 4 Apr 2015, 11:23 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • G
                                    Giles
                                    IHUK Crew
                                    Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                                    Oh fuck, that was where we were hoping for massive growth…...(surprisingly) not.....

                                    "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                    last edited by 4 Apr 2015, 14:10 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • D
                                      Dion
                                      Joined: 15 Mar 2015

                                      That's a very sad topic to joke about… didn't know they wore any jeans in the first place.

                                      last edited by 4 Apr 2015, 14:57 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • C
                                        Chris
                                        Raw and Unwashed
                                        Joined: 28 Jun 2010

                                        A crackdown on hipsters can't be all bad.

                                        last edited by 4 Apr 2015, 15:48 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • S
                                          Seul
                                          Joined: 24 Nov 2009

                                          last edited by 4 Apr 2015, 16:54 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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