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Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

Sanforization - What is it?

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  • S
    scroogen
    Joined: 30 Nov 2011

    This is a modern sanforization machine.


    Here is a diagram of what's going on in that crazy machine.
    (The image above and following text were lifted unscrupulously from the website http://www.sanforized.biz/e_home.htm )

    Fabric (F) passes through the skyer (S) or other moistening device and is moistened by water and/or steam. This will lubricate the fibers and promote shrinkability within the fabric. Normally, a fabric must be moistened in such a way that every single thread achieves a moisture content of approximately 15%. This allows compression of the fabric with very little resistance.

    When the fabric passes through the clip expander (C), we obtain the required width. The clip expander also transports the fabric to the most important part of the machine: the rubber belt unit (indicated by arrows in above figure). In the close-up of fig. 1, we see the endless rubber belt (R). By squeezing rubber belt (R) between pressure roll (P) and rubber belt cylinder (RB), we obtain an elastical stretching of the rubber belt surface. The more we squeeze the rubber belt, the more the surface is stretched. This point of squeezing is known as the pressure zone, or the nip point.

    Fabric (F) is now fed into the pressure zone. When leaving the pressure zone, the rubber belt recovers itself and the surface returns to its original length carrying the fabric with it. The effect of this action is a shorting of the warp yarn which packs the filling yarns closer together. At this actual moment, shrinkage occurs.

    After compaction within the rubber belt unit, the fabric enters the dryer (D). Here the fibers are locked in their shrunken state by removing the moisture from the fabric.

    After the compressive shrinkage process is completed, another sample of the fabric is taken. This sample is also wash-tested. The final result of this test must meet the Sanforized Standard, in length and width before it may carry the Sanforized label.

    All Sanforized Licensees are contractually obligated to follow the required test method and meet the standards set forth by The Sanforized Company.

    last edited by 11 Feb 2013, 21:45 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
    • G
      Giles
      IHUK Crew
      Joined: 22 Sept 2009

      I lifted mine in the main from there, but rewrote it as I needed it for the tool-tip which does not cater for diagrams….

      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

      last edited by 12 Feb 2013, 08:17 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • S
        scroogen
        Joined: 30 Nov 2011

        Haha I thought that maybe you had…  I thought it would be nice to see a diagram with text saying what the machine is actually doing. Just seeing the text might be a little hard to wrap your head around

        last edited by 12 Feb 2013, 09:34 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • G
          Giles
          IHUK Crew
          Joined: 22 Sept 2009

          I was looking for a photo of the Sanforization machine we use, but could not find one.  I did, however, fing a pic of the skewing machine.  Skew is sometimes intentionally introduced into denim to negate the twist is introduced into the fabric when being woven….

          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

          last edited by 12 Feb 2013, 10:05 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • S
            Snowy
            Joined: 15 Jun 2012

            @scroogen:

            Haha I thought that maybe you had…  I thought it would be nice to see a diagram with text saying what the machine is actually doing. Just seeing the text might be a little hard to wrap your head around

            Took me 20 minutes or so to get my head around the text, enjoyed the mental challenge. Appreciate the picture which helped validate it.

            Funny that I've know what sanforization does for years, but until this couldn't understand how. And it's far more complicated than I assumed (I had imagined it was given a single wash or something).

            The Skewing machine looks to be full of pressure/gas gauges. The scale of the machinery is crazy too!

            (Aside 3rd person from the point of view of this photo, love the jacket and jeans, lol.)

            last edited by 12 Feb 2013, 10:29 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • G
              Giles
              IHUK Crew
              Joined: 22 Sept 2009

              That is Brigitte, Roger from VMC's wife.  The jeans are Edwin, the jacket is Filson….(anyone see Roger, actually trying to get into the machine?)

              "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

              last edited by 12 Feb 2013, 10:35 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • F
                Finn666
                Joined: 20 Jan 2011

                i only have eyes for Ayumi 😘

                last edited by 12 Feb 2013, 10:54 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • S
                  Snowy
                  Joined: 15 Jun 2012

                  resisting urge to hijack 🙂 (Thanks Giles).

                  last edited by 12 Feb 2013, 11:54 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • C
                    Chris
                    Raw and Unwashed
                    Joined: 28 Jun 2010

                    Who's the guy between Haraki and Ayumi?  Someone from the factory explaining how the skewing machine works?

                    Oh, and I enjoyed playing a quick game of "Where's Roger?"  I missed him the first time around.

                    last edited by 12 Feb 2013, 16:33 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • G
                      Giles
                      IHUK Crew
                      Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                      Yep, he's the factory manager explaining how it all works….

                      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                      last edited by 12 Feb 2013, 16:37 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • S
                        Sugar Mountain
                        Joined: 18 Jan 2012

                        I was wondering, Why does Haraki prefer sanforization for the majority of IH denim? Selling one-wash denim would address any issues with shrinkage so I presume there are additional reasons.

                        last edited by 14 Feb 2013, 10:39 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • G
                          Giles
                          IHUK Crew
                          Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                          He likes the stability that sanforization gives him.  It allows him to be be more sure of creating consistency in production.  With education (read me, going on and on and on and on about it) he is learning to embrace imperfection…..

                          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                          last edited by 14 Feb 2013, 10:44 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • C
                            Chris
                            Raw and Unwashed
                            Joined: 28 Jun 2010

                            From a practical standpoint, I sympathize with Haraki, but I'm glad you've been wearing him down.  Raw is much more interesting in the long run.

                            last edited by 14 Feb 2013, 16:28 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • R
                              RedStripe
                              Joined: 18 Jun 2011

                              great post, very informative 🙂

                              last edited by 15 Feb 2013, 18:31 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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