Making Boots

[Hemi]

Do you guys prefer a heavier weight leather tongue or a lighter one.  I'm using a lighter one at the moment because its more comfortable and the only option is to use the same leather as the upper which is quite a bit thicker but I'm not sure how it would feel?

[zhivago]

it is nice for comfort but wear wise keeping things uniform has its advantages too. All that aside, I really like to look of these Hemi, excited to see how this continues.

[Chris]

Depends; is it a gusseted or non-gusseted tongue?  If it's an ordinary tongue, then full thickness leather would be my opinion.  However, the additional layers of a gusseted tongue warrant a thinner leather, I think.

[Hemi]

Thanks guy's… I've been working on this for a while, its real labour of love.

The boots have a half gusset tongue so I think the leather we used for the upper will be too thick.  I might see if I can get a slightly heavier leather or I 'll have to go with the lighter weight one which still looks good and does the job.

[Giles]

My Viberg service boots have a full gussetted  tongue and it is made from what feels like calf, it is perfect….

[Chris]

I agree completely on the Viberg service boot tongue.

[Hemi]

Here's another sample boot I'm working on…  I'm not sure about the colour?

Features:

• Thick yellow reverse kip suede leather upper sourced from the Tasman Tannery in Whanganui, New Zealand
• Brass eyelets & white contrast stitching
• Insole & mid-sole brass screwed & stitched
• Double leather sole
• Stacked leather heel with rubber top piece
• No toe puff
• Soft suede leather half bellow tongue
• Thick brown leather lace

[Chris]

I like the color a lot.  I like the boots a lot, in fact.  I'd add a commando sole, but that's just me…

[veloaudio]

Wow, just found this thread.  Amazing work Hemi.

[injunjack]

• 1 on commando sole, but there is something odd lookin how the heel is placed, or "shoe" is on sole. If you understand what I'm trying to say…
  Maybe it's just me...

[Giles]

I understand….& I'm not 100% keen on the toe box......

[Finn666]

^ yeah, the toe box needs to be a bit bulkier imo!…

[bagley920]

I think the heel block is too small

[Hemi]

I'm going to do a commando & vibram sole boot.

I've always loved the Roughout Boots without the toe box so I wanted this model to be similar.  I'm just testing it to see how it wears. I'm also looking at some other toe box options.

I'll work on the heel.

Cheers guy's!

[riffblaster general]

Very interested to see more Hemi.  Next time in down your way id really like to check these out!

[Moonshine]

Again, good stuff, Hemi!  I like the unstructured toe box but it seems too low…  And the spacing between the outside of the heel and the leather of "shoe" is a bit much per IJ and G.  But you've got to break a few eggs to make an omelet!  Looking forward to seeing more creations!

[Hemi]

Been working on my boots again after taking on board all of your comments.  I really like the commando sole on the yellow suede and black leather but I'm not sure about the black suede?

I'm working on a special pair for the Heavyweight Boot Contest.

[injunjack]

Much better….

You might try soles found here http://www.ironheart.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=3777.0

3rd left anf 5th from the left. cut to half soles…and leather heel

[Giles]

Personally, I much prefer the shape of the toe on the latest iterations…..

[Finn666]

way better Hemi! it's really great to watch and see the progress your boots are making with every new update you're posting…
finally they're in "wearable" status and it really doesn't take that much more to make them look/feel as some "real" boots!

I actually like all 3 new versions...the black suede almost looks best when looking at the fitpics! great work there...keep on going sir!