Denim - The Details

[rocket]

well done Jaco!

[ALEX1976]

[Morose_Penguin]

Well it's been in just about every other thread I can stick it in, so I'll stick it here as well:

[LandoCal126 0]

@Wavey_lenz:

@Giles:

The 18oz raw denim is designed to be hairy and slubby, that is why they fade with such great contrast.  The hairiness will disappear with abuse….

Thank you!
As promised
L to R 25, 21, 18oz

18oz

21oz (sanforized)

25oz

[urbanwoodsman]

21/23oz Raw, Wabash(old version), 17oz. Duck

[MikeC]

Couldn't think of or find the right thread. This is a double stitched hem on a TW Sample Western that I got for my buddy. This kind of detail is what gets me going, love it.

[jacoavlu]

not so sure thats a sample western… see IHSH-01 thread

[Giles]

It's a Western - you can see the snap and it's not an IHSH-01

[jacoavlu]

not saying its not a western, and not saying its an ihsh-01, but that flannel has been discussed in the ihsh-01 thread

@Giles:

@jacoavlu:

I could not remember either, so I asked Haraki:

_Left shirts is the first  flannel shirt of WORKS inc

Right shirt is the firstflannel shirt of IRON HEART_

[Giles]

Cool, thanks for the clarification Jaco….

[MikeC]

This is what I'm going off of. Only branding on the shirt. By the way, it's fucking awesome too.

[Finn666]

that colorway is the shit!
any chance on bringing that one back G.?

[Max Power]

It reminds me of one Glory PArk Flannel I loved. This fabric is awesome and I'd buy it in a second.

[RocknRoll]

I saw a comment recently about the 'amount of oxidation being a factor in the way a denim looks. I'm interested in more detail about this - can anyone elaborate?  I understand the concept of oxidation, but not it's application in this instance.

cheers

[scroogen]

Indigo works by a chemical reaction called oxidation-reduction.
Indigo does not dissolve in water. It must be
reduced — i.e. the oxygen must be removed— in the
presence of alkali
by a reducing
agent such as
thiourea dioxide
(thiox), sodium
hydrosulfite, Zinc, or bacteria. Upon reduction, indigo
becomes colorless and water soluble. In this state,
indigo has a high affinity for cellulosic fibers and enters
the open spaces of the fiber. The dyed fibers are then
exposed to air, which oxidizes the dye molecule back to
its insoluble form. The insoluble dye particles are
trapped inside the fiber, coloring them permanently blue.
Unlike most dyes, indigo forms a mechanical, not
chemical, bond.

Ok.  So in it's reduced state (oxygen taken out, water soluble) indigo is colorless and will adhere to fibres.  When air is introduced (oxidization no longer soluble) the fibres are turned blue.  This is why in rope dyeing they are put in the vat, taken out, left to dry and then the steps are repeated to achieve the desired hue/darkness. 
hope this helps!

---

heres the link i pulled that blurb from.  I'm no scientist! (opens as PDF)
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CDEQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fblogs.cornell.edu%2Fgarden%2Ffiles%2F2009%2F04%2Fintroduction3.pdf&ei=dWWsUO_aPMuy0AH3jIDwBg&usg=AFQjCNE1XEx_k9aie3imZ-4SAVLwDn1poQ

[Friday]

Thanks for that info scroogen.. Nice one…

[RocknRoll]

That makes sense, thanks. It's been a long time since organic chemistry at university, so I'm pretty rusty on some of the theory.

Extrapolating from this it would seem logical that the greater the 'rest' time between dips, the more intense the colour.

So for maximum indigo colouring, you would go for a lot of dips, with a long rest time between dips.

Yeah?

[Giles]

Yes

[MikeC]

Fabrics…..

(l to r) 17oz Cotton Duck, 14oz Double Weave Corduroy, 12oz Wabash Twill, 23oz Serge and 18oz Unsanforized Denim

[corporalclegg]

14.5 oz LHT sample, 21oz standard, SBG, 18oz, 23oz