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Roy's Jeans & The Cone Mills Video - Straight & Narrow Fits
Earlier this year we took a trip to Greensboro (North Carolina) with Roy Slaper to experience the production process of a new denim that was designed from the ground up by Roy himself. We took Kellen Dengler, our videographer from NYC, with us to shoot the process, we felt it wasn't fair to keep it under wraps. At the oldest denim mill in the world, this is the story of Roy's new fabric.
This video was shot in 1080p High Definition, it's best viewed in full-screen HD mode with the volume turned way up.http://vimeo.com/selfedge/selfedgeingreensboro
Roy is back with a restock of the release that sold out in seconds in March. This long overdue set of jeans is made up of a custom fabric from Cone Mills made exactly to Roy's specs. This is the first time in over three decades that Cone has produced a loomstate unsanforized fabric for anybody, and therefore we feel that this is history in the making.
The denim is a loomstate unsanforized indigo denim that clocks in at 14.5oz per square yard in it's raw state. The denim is made of American cotton and is 100% pure indigo dyed in the darkest shade Cone produces.
Technically, the construction of the denim.. the warp has multiple sized (engineered) slub yarns and the weft has large rough spun (non-engineered) yarn. It weighs 14.5 in loomstate and approximately 16.25oz after a hot water soak. Roy broke three of his key machines on this run and had to improve them to deal with the heavier denim.
The fabric hand is smooth and tight. Roy had Cone pack as many picks per inch (46 in 6.4 gauge yarn) as could be done without the loom blowing out and therefore achieved the tight weave he was after. There is a sound to the denim, after its been worn a few weeks - when you rustle it, that's somewhere between suede and oil cloth. This is tough fabric.
The look is streaky and it appears grey-ish at first. After rinsing and a few weeks of wear, it starts to change character as the white hairs formed by the fill yarns wear off leaving the streakiness to mellow and the shade to become a more rich, classic indigo.The jeans themselves come in two fits, both a slim and a straight leg. Both silhouettes are slightly modified from past iterations of Roy's straight and slim fits.
With the RS04 and RN04 a few changes have been made from past models. Never content with just "doing another run", Roy has improved and tweaked everything surrounding the production of these jeans. The stitching of the body is even finer and more accurate and we love the fully lined back pockets and coin pocket. The rear pocket hems now have a hand-done welt in them (slightly thicker than the last run), mimicking the vintage style belt-loops found on many of the best Japanese brands. Last but not least the back pockets have been slightly reduced in size from past versions.
Jeans from Roy don't come often and we can't keep them in stock as long as we'd like, so if you've been waiting for a pair, now is the time.
Both of these models will be released at noon (local time) on Saturday June 2nd at all three Self Edge stores. These will also be available via our online store at 10am (PDT) on June 2nd.
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Man, that is some furry denim. I just ordered mine. I dont know a whole lot about Roy, but I wanted to take a chance on a new brand. I don't suspect that they will fade all that quickly since I won't be wearing them more than a day or so a week, but they sound too cool to pass up.
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Reminds me of that European (Italian?) comics about the 2 spies…
Spy vs Spy was American, published by Mad Magazine
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Clever & Smart - original title is „Mortadelo y Filemón, agencia de información“ by Francisco Ibáñez started in 1958.
It's a Spanish comics series (not Italian, sorry) that was kind of popular when I grew up…thought it was hilarious when I was little.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
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These RS04 are from the latest run and I just finished a couple of soaks. They still feel a little baggy even for a straight fit jean (sz 33) but the denim is slowly settling in and the hip flairs are going away. I'm not sure what to do about the length yet concerning cuffing, hemming, or just letting them be but I will probably wait a little longer to see what happens. The denim started out really streaky and hairy and is now a nice near even indigo. As mentioned, construction is top notch!
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Yeah, I picked up a pair for summer time and kinda just because I like the concept of what Roy does. None the less they have quickly become my favorite summer time jeans.
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Yeah me too.. The details and love put in are something that I just cant resist. THeres something 'special' going on there that i think i need to exprience for myself.
Another question for me is the difference between the 03 and the 04. I know the denim is 13oz vs 14.5oz, and one costs $140 mor than the other, but is the 04 really worth that much more? What else is going on there to warrant the extra cost?
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Take 2 with a single cuff. I'm liiking these them more and more.
