IH-6526J Extra Heavy Corduroy Type III Jacket
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You boys!
I really LOVE this jacket, but… won’t snag it yet. I need a small for shoulders/arms, however I’m short and reasonably well-endowed so this just about does up over my chest, but - being slightly longer than regular type III jackets - won’t do up round the hips (unless I hitch it up). We haven’t measured them yet, but Haraki-san told us in Tokyo (he was wearing the exact same jacket) he had them cut about an inch longer than regular.
So basically it’s a perfect man’s cut, or fabulous for a taller, slimmer gal. Ho, hum. Just buttonflyed an IHSH-44 (Big Blue) to compensate.
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I mind not what you covet. But if I did, it would be a b[l]ue [sic] bag, much quicker…...
sinister & yet practical
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for anyone that cares here is the review that i promised.
its my own option based on my personal knowledge bla bla bla….
sorry not the for the crappy pics.first impression. WOW thats tough, i come to expect the heavy toughness of IH but this still caught me by surprise.
block/patten. Spot on. a very classic type III, in fact the best i've come across. Slim short body with a slightly full sleeve then slim forearm.
I only got the black and beige colour way. construction is identical.
-the beige is a soft camel colour which is a lot nicer in person than any pic i can find.
-black is purple based so has that slight tinge to it.
double weave is apparent as the inside is actually a different weave. MR H use a 1X1 weave which
is essentially cotton duck. so technically speaking this is lined in loose weave soft cotton duck. Yeah i know it's very very cool.
completely felled every single seam unless its a finishing stitch which makes this jacket as nice inside as its out [felled seam is the same one you find on the V on the back of your jean]
buttonhole on these are a real bonus. done on a either a vintage Reece 101 or a DurKopp 588. there are still plenty of these machines around but most of them dont have the ability to feed the gimp any more as they were taken out/disabled to cut cost and improve speed. Difference? its the only two machines that can do an imitation hand sewn buttonhole and these IH still they have their gimp feeders.
cant get a close enough shot but the lighter thread/fluff where the pen is pointing is the end of the gimp and if you get one in person have it look closely this thick thread runs all the way around inside the buttonhole.
a detail worth noting is the pockets, they set are enforced with a very large zig zag stitch/bartac but you will only see half of this bartac on the front because it was done before the top half is sewn to the bottom. more complicated patten then most but staying true to the classic.
because of this small detail the pocket naturally opens when the button is undone which makes it very usable.
that bartack is also functioning as the finishing as the little gap where the pen is pointing, with out it covering this little edge it would be a raw unfinished edge. so very procession sewing here tolerant is only within couple of mm, a manufacture's nightmare.
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Most comprehensive review that I have ever read on a jacket, great work
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Love reading about technical details, give us more Jimmy
