Heavyweight linen or hemp fabrics. Summer is underserved by current core offerings

Did some research on this fabric. Turns out a few people reported developing micro-tears randomly. Given the novelty and short track record compared with the established fabrics, I think I'll sit this one out

@sabergirl said in IH-1955S-142 - 14oz Selvedge Denim "1955" Vintage Tapered Cut Jeans - Indigo:

Sounds to me like you might’ve gotten The Shop’s slubby 1955 collab

Don’t think so. (BTW is the Japanese founder writing the English here lol)

I would opine that if you are at a point where 1 cm matters, you are likely cutting it too close

At a 50% off event, acquired an Orvis Big Bear flannel shirt, which is essentially a CPO, for the price of a cup of joe. Stateside folks should know of this storied brand.

Dug through my history, it's this one: https://www.heddels.com/2014/06/iron-hearts-two-bosses-shinichi-haraki-giles-padmore/

Correct me if I'm wrong, but new shuttle looms are manufactured, (albeit) in China. If so the concern is greater with Japan's aging workforce

@flannel-slut @jischwar Did you ever figure out the cause of those weird yellow stains?

@AdamJ You mean this one is lighter shade?

I'm in the process of breaking in the 13oz serge. My previous experience has been UHF, hickory stripe, and kersey (some of which were acquired second hand). The serge is by far the most stiff, scratchy, hard, punishing, ungiving. (Obviously you can tell by my framing that I hope this one is more of a normal shirt in terms of softness and give )

How does this fabric compare to the 13oz serge? (And what about the green to green comparison? This version looks a bit lighter?)

I would opine that if you are at a point where 1 cm matters, you are likely cutting it too close

@Giles said in IH-1955S-18 - 18oz Vintage Selvedge Denim "1955" Vintage Tapered Cut Jeans - Indigo:

@SuitOfUHF said in IH-1955S-18 - 18oz Vintage Selvedge Denim "1955" Vintage Tapered Cut Jeans - Indigo:

I hope the factories think long-term rather than prioritizing short-term trend chasers

That ship has sailed and we are pretty pissed off about it.....

I'd imagine!

@SuitOfUHF said in IH-1955S-18 - 18oz Vintage Selvedge Denim "1955" Vintage Tapered Cut Jeans - Indigo:

but they are fairweather friends who will cut loose just as quickly

100% - It's incredulous that the mills do not recognise this

See from about 7:00 here:

So much for this rose-tinted view of (some) Japanese business practices. Seems some do capitalism just like here in the West.

@goosehd Thank you. I'm sure no one has 100% visibility.

Hopefully my post was clear. I think the heritage Japanese brands should have priority access to these mills, rather than the Johnny come latelies, no matter how large their order book is.

@Jord said in IH-1955S-18 - 18oz Vintage Selvedge Denim "1955" Vintage Tapered Cut Jeans - Indigo:

@goosehd just to add, it's not just iron heart having these issues, all other brands are in the same position from my understanding...

It's a miracle they're still pumping things out every week, and keeping the quality of items still on point

Question for those on the ground: What are the factors behind production bottlenecks in Japan? Aging workforce? Surge in demand from mall conglomerates (e.g. Levis)?

I assume the answer is a mix of everything, but which is the predominant one? If the latter, I hope the factories think long-term rather than prioritizing short-term trend chasers e.g. Zara. Sure they might have the biggest order at a point in time, but they are fairweather friends who will cut loose just as quickly

At a 50% off event, acquired an Orvis Big Bear flannel shirt, which is essentially a CPO, for the price of a cup of joe. Stateside folks should know of this storied brand.

Heavyweight moleskin, which if denim is the American workwear fabric, then moleskin is in contention for the European. Just as durable if not more, just as long provenance if not more.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but new shuttle looms are manufactured, (albeit) in China. If so the concern is greater with Japan's aging workforce