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    • GilesG
      Giles
      IHUK Crew
      Joined:

      No, I think H means he wants a bolt of cloth to get a suit made - yes H?

      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • ?
        Guest
        Joined:

        G, that is my suspecion too…...bespoke denim suit (3 piece ?) for the denim hard core...would love to see pics of any creation.

        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • BeatleB
          Beatle
          Joined:

          LHT

          Left Hand Twill

          This refers to the direction that the denim is woven. Left hand twill denim is softer to the touch than right hand twill, and was originally used by Lee denim. Left hand twill is easy to spot, as the weft threads appear to move upward and to the left as opposed to upward and to the right.

          RHT

          Right Hand Twill

          This refers to the direction that the denim is woven. The opposite of Left Hand twill, this weave is much more common, as almost all jeans are woven with right hand twill. The weft (filler) threads will be visible in upward-right diagonal lines on right-hand twill jeans.

          To complete it

          Broken Twill

          Instead of the twill running to the right or left, broken twill jeans (traditionally considered the cowboy-preferred denim) contain no distinct direction of weave. The weave is instead alternated right and left - the end effect resembles a random zig-zag. Wrangler made the first broken twill jeans in 1964. Broken Twill was designed to combat the twisting effect that was a characteristic regular twill (and considered a 'fault' by many at the time). By going on both directions, the tension in the yarns is balanced in Broken Twill. [additions from ringring]

          We can do anything

          http://bybeatle.com

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • GilesG
            Giles
            IHUK Crew
            Joined:

            Studio D'Artisan SD-101/102(Right Hand) and SD-003(Left Hand).  First few pix are of the 101/102 and the next few are of the 003

            "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • ?
              Guest
              Joined:

              Simon, I'll take some pics of some Lee right hand twill, and IH left hand twill  for you too see the difference (later today once I get home, after my day at the office !)

              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • GilesG
                Giles
                IHUK Crew
                Joined:

                wear your 634SR, you'll get sent home early..G

                "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • deadendproD
                  deadendpro
                  啓蒙家
                  Joined:

                  you can get great fades on both LHT and RHT, but RHT tends to have a tighter weave and LHT usually feels softer. just a couple quick bits

                  Currently Wearing:
                  SExSx3s 27-01
                  15.4oz 3sixteen Type 3
                  25oz Samurai Type 1

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • ?
                    Guest
                    Joined:

                    hahahaha…the 634SR are drapped on the chair at the spare desk next to me, I keep looking at em and the fades etc...I am pathetic....on the plus side, everybody around me is now aware of the selvedge revolution !

                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • GilesG
                      Giles
                      IHUK Crew
                      Joined:

                      GMT, so 8 hours ahead of you (well actually several centuries) 😉

                      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • deadendproD
                        deadendpro
                        啓蒙家
                        Joined:

                        ^ wow…. there are a lot of your biggest fans from here giles, here meaning cali.  😞

                        hahahaha

                        Currently Wearing:
                        SExSx3s 27-01
                        15.4oz 3sixteen Type 3
                        25oz Samurai Type 1

                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • GilesG
                          Giles
                          IHUK Crew
                          Joined:

                          I know, and I love you all.  G

                          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • deadendproD
                            deadendpro
                            啓蒙家
                            Joined:

                            ^ flathead is a different company, giles is just a pimp, thats why he distributes for both them and IH/TW

                            Currently Wearing:
                            SExSx3s 27-01
                            15.4oz 3sixteen Type 3
                            25oz Samurai Type 1

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • GilesG
                              Giles
                              IHUK Crew
                              Joined:

                              I'd like to think of myself as a nice pimp.

                              But seriously, Iron Heart is my main love - Haraki thinks of me as "family", and that dictates what I do with other brands, I do the other stuff because I think that it is complimentary.  I may get other brands as well soon, but Iron Heart will always be Number 1.

                              "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • ?
                                Guest
                                Joined:

                                Simon, it says pretty clearly in the text and in the picture legend which is LHT and RHT. Basically you put your jeans in front of you like the are facing you. If the diagonal ribs go from the lower left to the upper right, it's a RHT. It's a rising line. If they go from the upper left to the lower right, it's a LHT. It's a falling line.

                                They say LHT is softer. When I tried some Lee models in LHT and RHT I was not sure if I could tell the difference and I'm pretty good in the tactile department. I was once (and probably still am) able to tell on the back of the hand of a 17 year old girl on which hand she used a scrub and on which she didn't. So we are talking about micron differences.

                                Maybe it was just these particular two models I tried but really the difference was most minimal if there was one at all. Now after several washed that may change but I am not there yet.

                                I kind of like the idea of getting jeans in different weaves. I hope I can find a broken twill and I would love to get one of those Evisus that have one part in LHT and one part in RHT.

                                Till

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • hecticH
                                  hectic
                                  Joined:

                                  @Giles:

                                  No, I think H means he wants a bolt of cloth to get a suit made - yes H?

                                  Yeah, G, like that

                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • GilesG
                                    Giles
                                    IHUK Crew
                                    Joined:

                                    How much you need and what weight?

                                    "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • hecticH
                                      hectic
                                      Joined:

                                      Dunno man, just curious at the mo. If IH can offer a bolt length then I'll take it from there. I was thinking that the 13.5 weight Tripleworks would be a good denim potentially for this purpose.

                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • GilesG
                                        Giles
                                        IHUK Crew
                                        Joined:

                                        Let me check.  21oz is a complete no no, there is no way he will let anyone else touch it, and quite frankly, we are struggling to make enough for our own purposes, but I suspect we may be able t get hold of the lighter stuff.  G

                                        "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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                                        • hecticH
                                          hectic
                                          Joined:

                                          Ok, np, thanks in advance for asking

                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • ?
                                            Guest
                                            Joined:

                                            21oz would likely be too thick and stiff anyway. Would be very uncomfortable and almost impossible to sew. You have to hold in the sleeve about and inch or so to fit the arm hole. That would be very difficult with such a stiff material. The only way to do it would probably be to work with the little bit of diagonal stretch you have in the denim. But that would then throw off the fit of the rear shoulder. So the 13.5 oz is indeed the better choice. Consult with your tailor before ordering.

                                            Till

                                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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