Random questions to which you seek an answer
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LHT
Left Hand Twill
This refers to the direction that the denim is woven. Left hand twill denim is softer to the touch than right hand twill, and was originally used by Lee denim. Left hand twill is easy to spot, as the weft threads appear to move upward and to the left as opposed to upward and to the right.
RHT
Right Hand Twill
This refers to the direction that the denim is woven. The opposite of Left Hand twill, this weave is much more common, as almost all jeans are woven with right hand twill. The weft (filler) threads will be visible in upward-right diagonal lines on right-hand twill jeans.
To complete it
Broken Twill
Instead of the twill running to the right or left, broken twill jeans (traditionally considered the cowboy-preferred denim) contain no distinct direction of weave. The weave is instead alternated right and left - the end effect resembles a random zig-zag. Wrangler made the first broken twill jeans in 1964. Broken Twill was designed to combat the twisting effect that was a characteristic regular twill (and considered a 'fault' by many at the time). By going on both directions, the tension in the yarns is balanced in Broken Twill. [additions from ringring]
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you can get great fades on both LHT and RHT, but RHT tends to have a tighter weave and LHT usually feels softer. just a couple quick bits
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^ wow…. there are a lot of your biggest fans from here giles, here meaning cali.
hahahaha
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^ flathead is a different company, giles is just a pimp, thats why he distributes for both them and IH/TW
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I'd like to think of myself as a nice pimp.
But seriously, Iron Heart is my main love - Haraki thinks of me as "family", and that dictates what I do with other brands, I do the other stuff because I think that it is complimentary. I may get other brands as well soon, but Iron Heart will always be Number 1.
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Simon, it says pretty clearly in the text and in the picture legend which is LHT and RHT. Basically you put your jeans in front of you like the are facing you. If the diagonal ribs go from the lower left to the upper right, it's a RHT. It's a rising line. If they go from the upper left to the lower right, it's a LHT. It's a falling line.
They say LHT is softer. When I tried some Lee models in LHT and RHT I was not sure if I could tell the difference and I'm pretty good in the tactile department. I was once (and probably still am) able to tell on the back of the hand of a 17 year old girl on which hand she used a scrub and on which she didn't. So we are talking about micron differences.
Maybe it was just these particular two models I tried but really the difference was most minimal if there was one at all. Now after several washed that may change but I am not there yet.
I kind of like the idea of getting jeans in different weaves. I hope I can find a broken twill and I would love to get one of those Evisus that have one part in LHT and one part in RHT.
Till
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21oz would likely be too thick and stiff anyway. Would be very uncomfortable and almost impossible to sew. You have to hold in the sleeve about and inch or so to fit the arm hole. That would be very difficult with such a stiff material. The only way to do it would probably be to work with the little bit of diagonal stretch you have in the denim. But that would then throw off the fit of the rear shoulder. So the 13.5 oz is indeed the better choice. Consult with your tailor before ordering.
Till