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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    IH510 - IH * Take5 (HK) collaboration (IH-634S)

    Bottoms
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    • FOXYF
      FOXY
      Joined:

      don't worry - I get into these discussions quite often in my job and especially this topic goes straight to quasi-fundamental within seconds.
      I guess it is because it seems to contradict common sense and practical experience. in most cases it is down to badly set-up lock stitch machines and using stronger threads for chain stitch seams.
      The research literature was standard reading during my days at the polytechnics long long time ago - if I remember correctly it was one of the Manchester Textile Research journals that did publish the fundamental works and did the comparison in the late 1980's. if I get back to Europe I will try to get hold of the articles and get them your way.

      I will try to stop. we can also take this topic off line.

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • jimmyJ
        jimmy
        Joined:

        Then i am afraid it's beyond me as common sense and practical experience is all i have.

        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • FOXYF
          FOXY
          Joined:

          I hope it does not upset you, but believe me when I tell you that within my 20 years of experience out there in the factories I have seen grown men twice my age and experience disagreeing over this specific topic and all because the statement: chain stitch seams are more elastic/break less than lock stitch seams.

          good thing, though - this will not diminish our love and affection for japanese denim and Japan made jeans, specifically Iron Heart. I find the details and differences in execution simply amazing. from a industrial standpoint some of it gets close to commercial suicide… (which is exactly why I buy into it!)

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          • FOXYF
            FOXY
            Joined:

            getting them hemmed this weekend. with or without cuff?

            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • injunjackI
              injunjack
              見習いボス
              Joined:

              I say this again, I suppose I'll say it to everybody who asks this Q.  😛

              Get them hemmed 2,5"-3" longer than you normal inseam. That'll give you some extra for shinkage/combing and you'll be able to cuff them nicely (2" cuff) or allows some stacking if you like that.

              Then again, it's your choice.

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              • mvbM
                mvb
                Joined:

                i vote cuff!

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                • GeoG
                  Geo
                  Joined:

                  @injunjack:

                  I say this again, I suppose I'll say it to everybody who asks this Q.  😛

                  Get them hemmed 2,5"-3" longer than you normal inseam. That'll give you some extra for shinkage/combing and you'll be able to cuff them nicely (2" cuff) or allows some stacking if you like that.

                  Then again, it's your choice.

                  so speaketh the President of the International Cuffing Agency . . .  😉

                  +1 for me

                  Artificial Intelligence is no match for Natural Stupidity

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                  • GilesG
                    Giles
                    IHUK Crew
                    Joined:

                    I think you mean the International Cuffing Standards Agency

                    "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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                    • GeoG
                      Geo
                      Joined:

                      nope . . . IJ has been quite aggressive in promoting this standard  😉

                      Artificial Intelligence is no match for Natural Stupidity

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • BlackheartB
                        Blackheart
                        Joined:

                        I shortened my DC4's, 36 down to a 32 and they're perfect for both cuffing and stacking. 🙂

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                        • injunjackI
                          injunjack
                          見習いボス
                          Joined:

                          @Geo:

                          nope . . . IJ has been quite aggressive in promoting this standard  😉

                          Well, we need standards, don't we? How on earth those hoodlums who want to break every rule can do if they don't have a standard to go against? Those poor SOB's wouldn't know what to do if everything is OK to do.
                          So let there be a Standard for those who like it and also for those who don't like to be told what to do.  😃

                          (on a bit more serious note, IMO so called std cuff is the best looking way to cuff, the other way is to exaggerate properly. But then also single. Also bootcuts aren't, again IMO, supposed to be cuffed. Nor black jeans, as there you loose the whole point. Just don't take me too seriouslu or literally  🙂  )

                          And BH, Cuff pics needed.

                          edit: typo

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                          • GeoG
                            Geo
                            Joined:

                            Y'see Giles? IJ has got everything in hand and if anyone needs cuffed he's the man 😉

                            Artificial Intelligence is no match for Natural Stupidity

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                            • injunjackI
                              injunjack
                              見習いボス
                              Joined:

                              everything can be arranged…in a very discreet manner

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                              • BlackheartB
                                Blackheart
                                Joined:

                                Cuff pics this weekend IJ, promise…

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • FOXYF
                                  FOXY
                                  Joined:

                                  So - cuff it is!
                                  2-3" will do…thanks for your opinions.

                                  Couldn't agree more with The Cuffing Standards Agency - are there any local branches for local/regional sub-standard?

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                                  • GeoG
                                    Geo
                                    Joined:

                                    there's probably an opening in the Cuffing Regulations And Procedures Department

                                    me and IJ set the thing up after much research and many conferences . . . both being ex-military we thought some rigour needed to be applied - but then things got sketchy when it came to electing a president . . . i voted for him amd he for for him . . . he's power mad  😉

                                    Artificial Intelligence is no match for Natural Stupidity

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                                    • FOXYF
                                      FOXY
                                      Joined:

                                      Sounds oh-so familiar…

                                      If you guys do it right you'll end up with Olympic Committee like setting - lots of scheming and bribing!

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                                      • GeoG
                                        Geo
                                        Joined:

                                        wouldn't want to say  😶

                                        Artificial Intelligence is no match for Natural Stupidity

                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • GilesG
                                          Giles
                                          IHUK Crew
                                          Joined:

                                          @Geo:

                                          there's probably an opening in the Cuffing Regulations And Procedures Department

                                          Sorry Geo, I thought it was part of the Sizing and Hemming International Taskforce - My bad…..........

                                          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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                                          • GeoG
                                            Geo
                                            Joined:

                                            don't be G . . . IJ had suggested you head up that particular unit . . . given your abilities with the Union Special

                                            Artificial Intelligence is no match for Natural Stupidity

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