IH-727-KHA - 9oz Mercerised Selvedge Relaxed Tapered Cut Chinos - Khaki
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@cityofdelusion said in IH-727-KHA - 9oz Mercerised Selvedge Relaxed Tapered Cut Chinos - Khaki:
After a lot of consideration, I went for these and the olive version. I think I will be wearing these two colors the most.
Unfortunately, as I had to order right while getting off of work, I didn't get to add hemming and a note regarding another request, but I sent E-Mails afterwards to clarify. Oh, and my voucher didn't get accepted and I was afraid that they'd sell out in the meantime, so I placed my order first and then reported via E-Mail that my voucher didn't work and asked for my voucher to be added post-purchase...
A lot of post-purchase chaos, but I hope to receive two really nice pairs of chinos in the end. Can't wait, will update soon.
Did you allow enough room to cuff? My inseam is 30 inch. Not sure how much to hem to allow for cuffing. Any help would be appreciated.
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I cuff until I've tried them on and confident on how much I want cut off. Which is usually after wearing for a few days, and playing with the cuff, leg stacking, and allowing the fabric to conform to me before I'm 100% on where I want it to be cut.
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If there is no shrinkage to be expected, my rule of thumb is: I'll add 0.5" to the perfect/ideal length that I want my trousers to end up at in order to account for the shortening of the inseam caused by natural and frequent wear.
Example: Perfect/ideal length is 27", hem at 27.5" and with wear, the inseam will lose approximately 0.5" and end up being 27".
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@dlrarmy these are both 33" inseam for reference
. Next time I order chinos I'll know to request an extra .5". Something about the cuff/material (denim is 21oz 555)makes a slight difference. I'm not sure but I may get the olives hemmed again. We'll see. -
@CosmoSix5 could be down to the cut? Rise impacts inseam, so if you compared 888 to 777, you may need slightly different inseam lengths (or 721 to 727, etc etc)
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@Alex those were slim tapered chinos and 555.
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@CosmoSix5 i hear you, and i was just making an exaggerated example of 777 vs 888, but the point stands still. The 721s you have are based on 777 and the jeans are 555 with a significantly higher rise, so that could impact your inseam needs
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@Alex sorry if I sounded irritated, I was just sharing exactly what the fits were so you could explain it. So generically, lower rise, shorter hem could be a rule for me. Maybe even .25 instead of .5 less
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@CosmoSix5 said in IH-727-KHA - 9oz Mercerised Selvedge Relaxed Tapered Cut Chinos - Khaki:
So generically, lower rise, shorter hem could be a rule for me.
I would say so, as a general rule, yeah. I think @neph93 posted a good summary of this somewhere, but I cannot find it. Maybe someone else will
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And this
exchange is why I prefer to try on and live with the trousers before making any hemming decisions. Making general rules is hard work, much easier to wear them, see where they actually fit and settle, cuff them to where you want them hemmed, and then take them to a tailor once you're sure. In my view at least!I'm reminded that I've just spent three weeks in court wondering, in idle moments, why the other side's lead barrister's hem rode up to halfway up his shins whenever he sat down... maybe he made a hemming decision without the benefit of trying on his suit in advance...
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@motojobobo I am but a humble solicitor - hence I can afford to look around the courtroom and ponder these things while those far cleverer than me do the hard work.
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@discobeard couple of things: firstly, the cuts are different, so you can’t really do a direct comparison. Secondly, tag sizes mean nothing, it all depends on the actual measurements. Having said that, if you have a pair of trousers resembling the 888, the cut on which the 727 is based, I would measure those and pick the tag sizes based on that.
Bear in mind that the measurements may change with a new run
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Hey, no I only have 555 jeans in a couple of different fabrics. I’m aware the 727 is based on the 888, but is the rise on the 888 similar to the 555 given its medium/high? I know the fabric differs and the 555 has a slimmer profile throughout. Also, self edge have 727 chinos (I think) that they refer to as straight taper (which I’m aware is one of their denim cuts), have I read this incorrectly, or are their 727 different from 888 inspired ones?
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@discobeard you may be at a point where dropping a note to the guys at IHUK would be helpful: shop@ironheart.co.uk
Please have the measurements on hand of your best fitting pants measured the IHUK way and they should be able to guide you in the right direction as well as explain the intricacies of the cuts.
Here is a link to measure your pants: bottoms
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Thank you guys
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@discobeard I do know that in general self edge refers to all iron heart relaxed tapered cuts as straight tapered. If you look up the 888s on their site, they all are listed as straight tapered.
