IH-NO-LOT - 21oz Selvedge Denim Super Slim Tapered Cut Jeans - Overdyed Black
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Long time lurker and owner of some 888s-21oz for over a year now (plus some other IH stuff)….
I had to send the 888s in for additional knee-down tapering to achieve the fit I was after. Aside from loving OD and Indigo x Black material, this cut seems pretty nice. However for Iron Heart's "most tapered jean to date," it still isn't very aggressive. FYI I'm not after the 'skinny jeans' look (that many people where I live in LA wear); I just prefer a ~7" leg opening with a somewhat relaxed top block. Other off the rack examples would be Momotaro's High Tapered cut, Pure Blue Japan Relaxed Tapered cut, and more.
This NO LOT pair on paper measurements seem almost identical to the 555 cut.
Am I missing something? Slightly bigger thigh and knee than the 555?Thanks
Bill -
Am I missing something? Slightly bigger thigh and knee than the 555?
I would say you are missing something. The 555 is quite slim, but not aggressively tapered. The tapering is all in the thigh, with very little below the knee. The 777 is much more aggressively tapered than the 555. This is more tapered than both. It is what happens between the measurements that determines this.
As for carrot cuts, I’ll never say never, but I don’t think they’ll be on the IH radar anytime soon. Doesn’t really fit with the overall aesthetic. It took Haraki-san a long while to embrace anything other than the 634. Even this cut was a (happy) accident.
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I would say you are missing something. The 555 is quite slim, but not aggressively tapered. The tapering is all in the thigh, with very little below the knee. The 777 is much more aggressively tapered than the 555. This is more tapered than both. It is what happens between the measurements that determines this.
As for carrot cuts, I’ll never say never, but I don’t think they’ll be on the IH radar anytime soon. Doesn’t really fit with the overall aesthetic. It took Haraki-san a long while to embrace anything other than the 634. Even this cut was a (happy) accident.
Hah, carrot cuts.
After reviewing this a bit more, it looks like this has the top block (rise) of the 555, with the thigh-down cut more aligned with the 777. Comparing size to size on the NO-LOT vs 777, I am still seeing the 777 smaller by 0.1" to 0.2" in each dimension for the following: thigh, knee, leg opening.
When you mention 'between the measurements,' I'm not seeing how that would work out if the thigh-down measurements across the board are slimmer/smaller in the 777.
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Bigger than the 555, these are very comfortable to wear.
Appreciate the input! They fit you well.
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When you mention 'between the measurements,' I'm not seeing how that would work out if the thigh-down measurements across the board are slimmer/smaller in the 777.
The measurements don’t tell you everything. The don’t tell you how much room there is in the seat. The don’t tell you where the pattern curves or where it in cut straight. They don’t tell you what the shape of the top block is, whether there is room at the front or how it flows into leg.
If you are right and this cut has the top block similar to a 555 and a leg like a 777 then it will be more aggressively tapered than any other IH cut. The 555 top block is much looser and wider in the seat and across the hips than the 777 is. Not only does the 777 have a low rise (which the measurements do tell you), but the top block it cut quite trim and flat horizonatally (which the measurements don’t tell you).
At the end of the day, IH are not going to call it their most aggressively tapered to date if it isn’t. Despite that it still may not be as tapered as you would like it to be, but it is what is.
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@b1lf just re-reading your initial post and it may be worth looking at this:
It clearly shows how what happens between the measurements affects the overall taper, and demonstrates that despite the 555 having a slimmer leg and smaller hem than the 777 and 888, those two cuts are more aggressively tapered from crotch to thigh than the 555.
It remains the case that the NO-LOT doesn’t have the narrow hem you are looking for, nor the silhouette of the PBJ or Momotaro cuts you mention. What is considered aggressively tapered for Iron Heart may not be aggressively tapered by other brands standards. That may change at some point in the future, however different brands and designers have different aesthetics and Iron Heart may never make the cut you see in your minds eye.
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I’m buying a pair next month. Save me a 32!
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Just adding my $.02.
Got my 555-21OD delivered 2 weeks ago (my 1st IH ever), so I’ve been breaking that down and it’s now very soft. Despite the COVID/work-from-home lockdown in Australia, I have been wearing them every day, non-stop, to the point that my wife is convinced that I am sneaking out of the house when she’s not looking. If only my life is actually that exciting at the moment (to have a reason to sneak out for)….
Despite that, I have since learnt that the the 555 is just a little tight for me in the thigh/knee. E.g. I can’t really lift my knee up much higher above my waist. It’s not a major problem from a daily wear perspective (unless your job is a movie stuntman, eg), but it does restrict some of the more drastic movements.
Looking at the measurement of the no-lot, this would have actually been quite perfect for me. Very much the ‘lifter’s cut’. I guess the ‘aggressive taper’, as described in the product overview, is really describing the shaping between a fairly generous knee measurement (~8.5 in my size) to a average-hem opening (7.2), whilst not necessarily a ‘narrow opening’ (<7).
I would add that, going from 8.5 to <7, would certainly be very aggressive, even more than then Momotaro/PBj/Tanuki that I do own. I actually own a pair of Oni that has a <6 opening (worn out: once). My younger work colleagues have also been kind enough to educate me, recently, that they have stopped looking for that narrow opening and are now much more seeking the 90’s relaxed jean look. That, of cos, is not for me to pass judgement on, as this is very much a personal choice.
Looking back, the no-lot was freshly launched when I ordered the 555. I did recall considering it, but strangely did not pursue. The lack of available fit-pic (apart from model pic) might have been a reason. Another reason might be the fact that I’m a shorter guy, and my plan is very much looking to hem my purchase to ~28’ once broken in. This might have also been a deterrent - as the hem opening would most likely be around the ~7.5 mark at that length. Of cos this is doable, but I remember reasoning with myself to go with the 555, as one do not want to mess with the cut too much. Finally, as a fairly new customer to IH, I guess I wanted to go with a ‘known’ jean model (555), perhaps that somehow gave me more confidence it would be a good purchase (and it is! My karate high kick days are conveniently behind me, so honestly the tighter thigh cut is fine by me).
The 21oz is an amazing fabric (What took me so long to find IH?) - for those considering this cut, I’m sure it will work out just fine!
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I guess the ‘aggressive taper’, as described in the product overview, is really describing the shaping between a fairly generous knee measurement (~8.5 in my size) to a average-hem opening (7.2), whilst not necessarily a ‘narrow opening’ (<7)…...
Exactly that. In addition if you consider the roomier top block of the NO-LOT compared to the 777 the starting point for the taper is basically at hip level and it tapers all the way down relatively evenly, like the 888 but unlike the 555.
…..The 21oz is an amazing fabric
Isn't it though, and never better than when OD'ed.
