IH-526J-22 - 22oz Selvedge Denim Type III Jacket - Indigo
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Thank you Giles!
Does anyone own both this jacket and the 526PJ? I like a deep, traditional indigo blue, and I'm wondering if the 22oz might look more vintage/ traditional than the 21oz selvedge on the PJ? I also love the brown weft on this one, but I've never seen this denim in person.
The 22oz presents as somewhat darker and richer in colour than the 21oz, probably because of less post weave processing, and the brown weft. It drapes in a similar fashion and fades quicker.
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https://www.indigoinvitational.com/redlinerally/
This is definitely an interesting read.
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May I have your thoughts on fit, please? Thanks
s
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People tend to have different opinions about what a good fit should look like when it comes to type III jackets, so the important thing is what you think.
That said, I'll offer my opinion:
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Shoulders look spot on.
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Chest looks fine with it open but I'm guessing it is a bit tight when done up (this isn't necessarily a problem unless you intend to wear it with layers and/or in cool weather).
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It possibly looks a little bit short (but this particular jacket was designed to be that way, i.e. the traditional type III shape/fit).
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The arms look a tiny bit too long but I don't think it will cause you any problems as the 22oz material will soon crease and bunch up a bit, which should 'shorten' the sleeves by about an inch.
If you size up, I think the arms would be far too long. If you size down, it'll be too tight and too short. So you probably have the right size!
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By the way, buttoning up the sleeves will solve the arm length issue.
Also, I think you uploaded the third photo after I posted my reply. I think it looks great with the shirt underneath. The short white t-shirt didn't do it any favours (you need something a little longer for added dimension, in my opinion).
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@cooldude_abe I think you'll find that as this starts breaking in it will be perfect over a tee and/or light shirt. the 22oz is pretty inflexible when new but loosens up very quickly. The arms look a little long but you will find that they shorten as creases start to set in at the elbows. I really like the length in the body.
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Looks great to me!!
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Thanks, yes with buttoned up sleeves, they end a little right below my wrist bones.
By the way, buttoning up the sleeves will solve the arm length issue.
Also, I think you uploaded the third photo after I posted my reply. I think it looks great with the shirt underneath. The short white t-shirt didn't do it any favours (you need something a little longer for added dimension, in my opinion).
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Thanks, I could also rock it with rolled up sleeves like you
@cooldude_abe I think you'll find that as this starts breaking in it will be perfect over a tee and/or light shirt. the 22oz is pretty inflexible when new but loosens up very quickly. The arms look a little long but you will find that they shorten as creases start to set in at the elbows. I really like the length in the body.
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Thanks I can't wait for cooler days to wear this thing out.
Looks great to me!!
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Giles, can you please explain? What does the taping do to help sew the super heavy denim? I love this jacket by the way - I went to grab my IH-101J-SR this morning, and accidentally grabbed the sleeve of my IH-526J-22. The material is so thick, I thought I was holding the quilted lined sleeve of my 101J-SR.
This 22 oz indigo may be my favorite IH denim - I love the feel, the thickness, and the dark indigo color. If you made a 526PJ with this stuff, it might be my ultimate type III. If it had a corduroy collar, even more so.
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@jimmer_5 most IH denim seams are felled. This means the edges of the pieces of denim are folded into each other then sewn. It leaves no raw edges and is very strong. Denim as sturdy as the 22oz is too thick to be felled properly so an extra piece of material is used to “tape” the two pieces together in order to achieve the necessary strength in the bond while still being aesthetically pleasing.
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Ah, thank you Neph - I had forgotten how a flat-felled seam works. Thanks for clarifying this for me.
I initially struggled with the idea of keeping both my PJ and the J-22 because they are somewhat similar jackets, but decided that they were worth it. The pockets on the PJ are so useful, and the J-22 probably looks the best on me of the IH jackets I own. Knowing these extra details about the differences in construction makes me feel even more justified and excited to own and experience both styles.
