Neph’s new house…
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It’s ON!
New wood going in for the first time to level off the floors…
In other, less awesome news, we have discovered that the extension to the living room which was built in 1980 used a dangerously under spec steel i-beam. It needs replacing.
This in itself isn’t a problem except that it would be much easier (and not much more expensive), to rip the whole thing down and start again. However doing so would mean we would need to rebuild a simulacrum of a 1941 style extension. That would mean losing about 7 square meters of living room, the second floor bedroom balcony, and the back door out to the garden, according to the Royal Norwegian Antiquitarian (whom one does not fuck about with). Nothing is ever easy.
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More action that leaves me with mixed feelings. We had a specialist have a look at our chimney. It is a huge, concrete structure that runs through the middle of the house. Or I should say, it was.
The inside is made of clay tiles, and while that was fine in 1940, the expert could tell us that 80% of chimney fires are in this type of chimney. Rehabilitating it would cost four times as much as ripping it out and putting a new, modern system. Add to that the room space we would get back from removing the original (the modern systems are very small and tidy), and it was a no-brainer. Another original feature gone though, which is a little sad.
This is where it used to be:
One extremely positive thing is flooring going in!
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Another original feature gone though, which is a little sad.
This is where it used to be:Houses should also evolve sometimes I think. 100% the right decision given the risks.
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Houses should also evolve sometimes I think. 100% the right decision given the risks.
I think that is a very good point and I appreciate it.
To illustrate the under spec i-beam issue, here is the old one still in situ….
And here is the engineer-approved new one waiting to go in:
In the same shot:
The builders have estimated a 4cm sag which is fairly obvious now they have taken a few walls down. It will be corrected when the new one goes in.
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The 4x4's (?) pass code?
When I put in a similar size steel here, I had to demonstrate to the building regs guy, that I had brick-built piers holding it upswith brick foundations going 3 feet below ground level…..
Luckily the original builders had anticipated this in 1830
:). As we dug down (with the building regs guy peering down the hole), the brick wall that we were making the new opening in expanded in width by 2 half-bricks each course below ground level. When we got to about 2 feet deep and the foundation of the wall was at about 3 feet wide, he said, OK, I've seen enough, that'll do....Over-engineered was their starting point..... -
Looks awesome Reuben! I'll bet all that lumber smells awesome.
Needs some powder actuated tools, though, JK.
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It’s finally starting to look like a space that can be lived in again. Flooring is down on two levels and I have been tasked with sound proofing the wall shared with the neighbours. @RoxRocks86 would not approve…. [emoji1]
After that was done our contractor decided he wanted extra insulation in the roof. To do that we have rip out the existing ceiling below the loft. More demo work for me this weekend. Joy.
Shinayaka’s in action in what will be a load of bedrooms…
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That gap in the floor next to your foot I'm imagining Mr. Burns' trap door.
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Honestly, I’m happy to say your hanging is a helluva lot more acceptable than the butchered
shithanging I commonly come across. You at least look like you know how to use and read a tape measure
Would def do the finishing on your boarding without extracting extra cash from your piggy bank
Happy to see things moving along at your place!
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Not to be that guy, but….I always thought that you were supposed to stagger drywall joints. Am I wrong?
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Looking great Reuben.
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@goosehd you are correct. Typical butt seams are staggered on framing studs. I can honestly say I’m not familiar with hanging gyp board on walls like in Reuben’s house. But if it’s similar to hanging on existing solid walls with using some type of adhesive & screws I’ve seen it done both ways - staggered and not staggered. Or if it’s double-layer, the second layer would then be staggered. Staggered seams won’t crack as easily and are certainly easier to finish.
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@RoxRocks86 Thank you. Thought I was missing something. I’ve never heard of two layers of board before, but there is lots of things I don’t know.
(Always learning)Why would you use the double layer? Sound, hide imperfections,…Really appreciate your insight.
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No worries, I’m still learning a ton.
Afaik double layering helps with sound & fire rating.
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The function of than double layer of plasterboard is primarily sound insulation with its fire retardant properties counting as a bonus.
The wall is the one that divides us from our neighbours and it is a 10cm thick wooden construction. 1941 «code» didn’t take into account listening to your neighbours argue then make up again.
As the wall is solid with no studs, the plasterboard is arranged with the first layer vertical and the second layer horizontal to create maximum sound-proofing.
It is also not the final surface. We’ll use specially designed metal fittings to attatch a 2x2 light stud frame to the floor, ceiling and perpendicular walls. This negates the need to use large metal screws that go through the stud wall, plasterboard and into the wooden wall behind, thus creating «sound bridges»
between the two adjoined houses. That stud frame will house the electric installation and 5cm of rockwool. The final surface will be mounted on that.
