IH-555S-21od - 21oz Selvedge Denim Super Slim Jeans - Indigo Overdyed Black
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Doesn't look bad, just in an odd place. -
It’s actually in a fairly predictable spot for wear, believe it or not. Those back pocket corners take a lot of abuse, and depending on the fit and fabric and how you wear them, they can show wear sooner or later, and that spot in the corner is the first place to go. The 21oz overdyed is an extremely soft and pliable fabric and because of that, it might wear through quicker in the most high stress areas (not stress in terms of external abuse, but stress in the fabric pulling away from the rivet and seam stitching of the pocket). Ironically, the softness and pliability makes it more durable in some ways (lack of sharp creasing, lack of friction caused holes), and less durable in others (easily stretched), compared to heavier denims. Case in point, my 21/23oz denim has holes from friction and sharp creases, but the back pockets are solid. And to show how different weight denims hold up to similar wear, my 18oz. denim has holes from all these sources of stress. Luckily, the back pocket holes have not increased in size considerably over the years, and honestly I’ve never worried about it. Certainly they are not as urgent a concern as holes near the crotch seam, which get bigger quickly.
21oz. OD: these have more than 7 years of wear and the holes in the pocket corners never got big enough to warrant repair. And as a testament to the softness and pliability of this denim, I have not had to repair them anywhere else either.
21/23oz: these were fixed in the crotch and hems twice over four years. Back pockets are solid
18oz: these have been easier to wear through than the heavier denims, but they still fade beautifully
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And it sometimes happens on shirt pockets too. It’s the price we pay to wear the most rugged fabrics sewn up with the toughest threads and the thickest seams. Sometimes the toughness is self-destructive. Lighter fabrics don’t know and can’t touch this level of rugged.
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My main issue is I've only owned them for four months. my theory is that the corner caught something wrong as I sat up or something.
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I understand the issue and your feelings, as I have the same issues on several of my own Iron Heart items. But it’s just regular wear and tear once you wear it for four months man. There are too many variables involved in diagnosing the cause and what’s to blame in my opinion. Don’t let it get you down. It’s an inconsequential battle scar at the moment, and shouldn’t get much bigger unless your wear patterns are creating that stress to begin with. Keep rocking them. The hole on my 21oz.OD pair in the same spot did not expand considerably over years of wear and washes. When you decide to repair, that area can be fixed with little consequence.
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@adam313 thanks for insights and pics, more the merrier. These have essentially been my only pair of jeans since I bought them. I've been trying to buy some 25oz to try but I'm pretty much in between a 36 and 38.
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Oh wow, that’s a big gap. I have to imagine there are lots of people in that size range on here who can share their experiences searching for the right size. I’m between 28-31 so I’m on the other side of the spectrum. My biggest concern is the thigh measurement. I can wear a belt if the waist is a bit big, but 38” is a lot of fabric so I bet it’s not that easy to get the dimensions right. The 25oz makes life more interesting, luckily you have lots of different cuts and denims to choose from. Good luck!
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This type of quick repair can be done by hand, before larger treatments are necessary. Cross that bridge when you get there as they say
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@adam313 that is a great bit of near scholarly documentation and explanation. An erudite contribution to the finer issues of denim wear and evolution.
I think four months of heavy wear is a point by which many issues can start occuring. My big issue is the crotch and especially the area on the back rear directly behind the the overlapping crotch seams. Some cuts/denim combo’s which otherwise fit well, start developing holes already after two months. There is also a crease point on the front of the top block where I often get holes around the four month mark.
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Fall fit. -
@Nskelton Holy cow how tall are you? It looks like your head is gonna hit the ceiling ???
Joking around aside, if you are in between sizes a good tailor can usually bring in the waist of your jeans. Personally I've had pants (including jeans) brought in 1-2 inches (beyond this and they will look off) – and I used to know someone who would get more intensive mod's on their jeans due to some crazy body proportions.
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@Jimothy I'm 6' 6". These jeans fit great it's the 25oz that I'm in between sizes except for the newly released 777xhsbb.
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Just arrived..
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What color thread do you guys go with when hemming these?
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What color thread do you guys go with when hemming these?
They will have the same colour thread as used in the other constructional stitching as a default, but I believe the guys will also do other colours upon availability and request.
EDIT: On second thoughts maybe they use black as standard for OD hemming? I have a Gosport hemmed pair so I should know. Either way, you can choose from the selection available in Gosport.
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The crew used black on black for my chainstitched hem 888 OD 21, there’s a top thread and a bottom thread so both are options. I’ve seen great looking examples of both. Yellow will be highlighted at the start but then match the other stitching (which is yellow but takes a bit of the overdye since it is poly/cotton) with time, while black is tonal at the beginning but will show once the denim starts to fade (blueish/greyish fabric with black stitching could look great I think, not unlike the blue on light blue on the 777’s or the new 19oz indigo black?). I chose the black to have both happening on one pair.
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I've just remembered, we have a cone of this, for the more "adventurous" amongst you. Usually just used as the bobbin thread….
That could be fun on my next pair… trying to decide between 888s or 888xhs
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