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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Live Reveal - Thursday 12th of June at 1700BST

    Watches - another OCD problem

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    • GraemeG
      Graeme
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      @mclaincausey there are a bunch of world timers with varying designs, so if you're looking at options…

      Jaeger LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time. I've seen one of these, but found the dial a bit complicated and hard to read. Hodinkee have a feature.

      The IWC Pilot's Watch Timezoner Chronograph is one of the cleverest designs. The timezone is set by rotating the bezel. However, it's quite a big beast of a watch, being 46 mm in diameter, and 16 mm thick! Hodinkee have a hands on, and the size comes up.

      Incidentally, some specs say that the watch has an inner soft iron case, which would protect it from magnetism. That's useful if you spend your life around computers.

      Lastly the Montblanc 1858 Geosphere, shown here in bronze. Hodinkee has a hands on. I'm not sure how it works.

      That said, the Tudor GMT is a cool watch, and offers a lot for the money. They are apparently not too easy to get hold of, I don't know if it's Rolex keeping a tight lid on supply, or just a lot of demand driven by the GMT Master.

      If you want a more monochrome GMT, Omega and LUC Chopard have options.

      @QuantumMechanic I didn't pick up the diver, because I'm currently broke. 😞

      If I got a Bell & Ross, it'd probably be a Laughing Skull, though I'd be tempted to wait for the inevitable bronze version.

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • mclaincauseyM
        mclaincausey
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        Thanks!

        I could get the Tudor right now below list, though not with the bracelet I'd prefer. I generally prefer (and can afford) more straightforward complications than some of the far-out world timers, and I like the notion of a rugged watch, especially a diver, given some of the case seal issues I've had with my Speedy. I'd prefer to never remove the watch when traveling, and a diver design supports that. The Tudor should have good antimagnetic performance as well, though my time around computers is more Ultralight laptop than server farm.

        Think it, be it.

        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • GraemeG
          Graeme
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          The Tudor GMT on the bracelet is apparently in quite high demand, with a longer waiting list. Depending on the discount, it might be worth buying it on the strap, and get the bracelet later.

          Tudor use silicon springs in their in-house movements, so it should be reasonably resistant to magnetism.

          I get the simple watch thing, I generally prefer three-handers with no date.

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • louisboscoL
            louisbosco
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            @Graeme even i couldn't get priority for the GMT pepsi SS. i've tried asking my cousin who works high up in an AD for rolex. zero chance..

            "Loyalty is a two way street. If i'm asking for it from you, then you're getting it from me."

            • Harvey Specter
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            • GraemeG
              Graeme
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              @louisbosco I reckon with Rolex that most of these pieces are more available than they're reputed to be. If you want one, find a reputable dealer, put your name down, and wait, which might take up to a year.

              Everyone complains about the lack of availability, but I suspect that's why secondhand prices are high. Lose the waiting lists, and they'd fall.

              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • mclaincauseyM
                mclaincausey
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                I thought there was a pretty solid wall of separation between Rolex and Tudor. (Meaning, I'd be surprised that a connection at Rolex would be any help at all in accessing a Tudor).

                Think it, be it.

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • louisboscoL
                  louisbosco
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                  @Graeme:

                  @louisbosco I reckon with Rolex that most of these pieces are more available than they're reputed to be. If you want one, find a reputable dealer, put your name down, and wait, which might take up to a year.

                  Everyone complains about the lack of availability, but I suspect that's why secondhand prices are high. Lose the waiting lists, and they'd fall.

                  i have. we'll see what happens..

                  "Loyalty is a two way street. If i'm asking for it from you, then you're getting it from me."

                  • Harvey Specter
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                  • GraemeG
                    Graeme
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                    @mclaincausey I think that demand for Tudors has been boosted by their association with Rolex. I know that some models, such as the Black Bay Bronze, were hard to get hold of at one point.

                    @louisbosco good luck getting the GMT. I reckon it'll turn up within a year, depending on what games Rolex plays. 🙂

                    Also, another article on patinating bronze.

                    https://deployant.com/the-bronzed-patina-the-curious-case-of-patina-how-to-get-it-and-how-not-to/

                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • DougNgD
                      DougNg
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                      I've seen a couple brands in other industries try to maintain demand by artificially stifling supply. What happened there was that people got frustrated, hostility boiled over, customers found a competing product that scratched the itch and the brand that tried to create demand by choking supply wound up having the inverse desired effect.

                      Now I'm pretty sure that won't happen to Rolex as they are the most recognized brand in the world, but it will be interesting to see if there's any damage to the brand name with this business move.

                      I had the money for a Pepsi GMT, but it's already been delegated to other toys while I was waiting for it to come out.

                      I know violence is not the answer, I got it wrong on purpose

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • louisboscoL
                        louisbosco
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                        ^

                        i'm highly doubtful that'll happen to rolex at all. it may have something to do with the perception of the brand by the majority of people whether it's seen as reaching a certain level or achievement or some sort of status symbol.

                        the way the dealers work when creating these waiting lists "on behalf" of rolex is that there's always some sort of priority to the top 1% which sucks for us people wedge in between. that way, they are almost guaranteed that the specific watch will fly off the shelves to people with high disposable income.

                        it's a shame but that's capitalism for ya.

                        "Loyalty is a two way street. If i'm asking for it from you, then you're getting it from me."

                        • Harvey Specter
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                        • Q
                          QuantumMechanic
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                          ^

                          This. Which is why Rolex SS watches, as an example, retain their value better than most. Desirable watches are 'stored' and not displayed by many retailers as to offer these models to their preffered clients. Not a preffered customer, and want a certain watch, well then be willing to pay a premium in the market.

                          That's the fun of it.

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                          • GraemeG
                            Graeme
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                            I agree with @DougNg that restricting supply could hurt Rolex in the long term. If I went into a dealer looking to make an expensive discretionary purchase, only to be told, "We're only selling those to our best customers, and we're not even going to let you put your name down on a waiting list," there's a good chance that I'll go to another watch shop and brand in the future.

                            I'm probably not the only one who thinks like that. The fact that I can get a white faced IWC Big Pilot Big Date (one of a limited edition of 150) easier than a Daytona (341 for sale on Chrono24) suggests that someone is taking the Mickey.

                            If you want a Rolex, find a dealer who'll put your name down on "the list", and be prepared to wait. (Anecdotally, the time will be less than you'll be quoted, and I've heard of people getting Daytonas within a year.) And accept all of the comments about a shortage as being sales BS.

                            Or pay a premium on the grey market.

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                            • S
                              Snowy
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                              As someone who bought a GMT Master II SS from a dealer 2 years back, I went to the Rolex store in SYD, was put on the 1 year list, and went to an AD around the corner who knew on the spot he'd have a watch in for me within a month, no deposit needed. I was called by the Rolex store a few weeks after my name went on the list asking was I still interested as he had a watch for me ready to go.

                              I'm not sure how much of this is rhetoric vs the reality that exists, vs my timing, vs being in SYD. My own first hand experience was set up to play out how it's described here, however, the reality very quickly turned out to be different.

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                              • JDelageJ
                                JDelage
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                                The calculation made by the brand is that they'll be able to upsell them on bimetal or precious metal pieces, which are higher margin products. Once the customer is (1) committed to buying a Rolex and (2) in the store with cash in hand, they are in a weakened position and a significant proportion will be upsold.

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                                • S
                                  Snowy
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                                  ^^in neither shop was that my experience. Neither tried to suggest a two tone model. That could have been due to my declared/strong view of SS only tho. Just 1 direct exp. What you've mentioned JDelage sounds reasonable and likely, that said..

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                                  • JDelageJ
                                    JDelage
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                                    I might be wrong. It might also be a lot more subtle. When I was in a Rolex boutique, they said they didn't have one for me to try, but I was welcome to try a precious metal model one to see what it felt like and then leave my name for the steel model…

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                                    • GraemeG
                                      Graeme
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                                      Here's another GMT, the Grand Seiko 9F Quartz GMT. This version, with the yellow highlight, has a specially tweaked movement accurate to within five seconds per year. :o

                                      More at Watches by SJX.

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                                      • mclaincauseyM
                                        mclaincausey
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                                        @Graeme:

                                        Here's another GMT, the Grand Seiko 9F Quartz GMT. This version, with the yellow highlight, has a specially tweaked movement accurate to within five seconds per year. :o

                                        More at Watches by SJX.

                                        dead sexy–but among my very favorites of all GMTs is this one: http://watchesbysjx.com/2017/10/introducing-the-grand-seiko-hi-beat-gmt-peacock-sbgj227.html

                                        Think it, be it.

                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • GraemeG
                                          Graeme
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                                          @mclaincausey the green peacock dial is lovely. 😘

                                          I like the Grand Seiko Blue Ceramic GMT, although it's probably an acquired taste. 🙂

                                          It's also a big (46 mm in diameter) and expensive ($15K) watch.

                                          Hodinkee and Watch Time have writeups.

                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • JDelageJ
                                            JDelage
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                                            I like it too - a lot. However, the price is ridiculous.

                                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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