IHM-19 - N1 Camouflage Deck Jacket
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Having just picked up the IHV-28, (which is adorable and I need to get fit pics up) I can say three things about this material:
1. It feels really good. Not at all "plasticky" (sic) because of the cotton content, but smooth and surprisingly light.
2. The pattern and colours are not as aggressive or jarring as they seem in the product pics. It's actually a lot more subtle (no offence @Sam you know I love your work, I just think the studio lighting makes these "pop" more in your pics than they do irl).
3. Despite the deceptively light weight, it's warm as hellGreat fabric design from Haraki-san.
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Copped! Sad to see yet another of my favorite items hit the outlet, but always happy to get a deal. Thanks, stubborn crew!
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I could prob fit in an XL in this… just saying... wish it was all alpaca lined...
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I could prob fit in an XL in this… just saying... wish it was all alpaca lined...
I was hung up on that at first too, but then this past winter I wore nothing heavier than a UHF under the “untucked” CPO. I think what I give up in ultimate warmth will be gained in wearability. Excess warmth will prevent me from wearing something even more than insufficient warmth.
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Freaking love it! Absolute highway robbery at outlet prices.
Not the best fit pic but fit is spot on, glad I sized down. And normally I’m not a fan of the internal sleeve cuffs, but these don’t bother me at all. And it’s the little details…
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Sharp looking jacket–you wear it well, T!
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Thank you sir. I've known I wanted this one ever since the concept sketches came out.
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Picked this up in the outlet! Can't wait for it to arrive!
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I love this jacket. Since I wear it hiking and so forth, I decided some additional waterproofing was a good idea. So here’s a brief tutorial on how to wax this or any other Iron Heart N1 (or any jacket for that matter) using Otter Wax products.
You’ll need the following:
Jacket (duh). They do state anything that is more than 50% cotton is best.
Otter Wax bar (to get tough to reach areas).
Otter Wax fabric dressing (the tin you melt).
1.5 inch brush for application (or metric equivalent).
Pot, water, and stove or heating element to melt the wax.
Having something to help spread it is good. They make a wooden tool, or I picked up the Princeton Catalyst contour c-83 at my local art supply store. This one…
This helped a lot to spread the wax, has flat, and rounded edges, and that little point at the bottom helps get into seams.
A heat gun is the most essential thing. I picked up a cheap one at Lowe’s for 20some bucks. This is mandatory.
And a place to work. It’s helpful if you have quick access to whatever you’re using to melt the wax.
You can follow the manufacturers directions to melt the wax initially. It’ll take some time to do. You want to come check out completely melted and clear- if it looks cloudy at all, it’s not hot enough.
While that’s happening, you can get you work area set up, and start hitting up the harder to get places with the bar. Inside of the cuffs, areas around buttons, and the few strips of fabric on the inside edges of the jacket. Rub the shit out of it. Don’t be shy. You should see a color change, usually darker, and be able to see a layer of wax completely covering the fabric when you look at the area at an angle.
And now the wax is melted. It’s best to pick an area of the jacket to do at a time. Front right side, right sleeve, collar, upper back, lower back, left sleeve, left front side was how I worked. Dip the brush in the wax and apply to the jacket. They suggest pushing away from you, but I don’t think it makes much difference. This stuff is kinda gloppy and tends to harden quick, so it might go on unevenly. But we’ll take care of that! Once you get the section of the jacket you’re working on well covered, or if you notice the wax in the tin becoming opaque, return it to the heat source until it’s clear again.
Now the heat gun. Use the low setting and go over what you just applied. It doesn’t take much to get it liquid, and use caution so you don’t singe your jacket. You can control the heat easily by simply moving the gun farther away, or stop the heat by aiming in another direction. But be careful you’re not pointing it at something else!
You should see the wax absorb in. If there’s too much and it’s just pooling on the surface, use the spreader thing to move it around. Look for the color change in the fabric to know it’s saturated. If it looks spotty, you’ll need a little more in that area.
All you need to do is repeat until you’ve gone around the whole jacket. It’s probably going to take a few hours to do. You can also use your fingers to push wax under buttons, I found that particularly helpful.
When it’s all done, not a bad idea to go back over the entire jacket, area by area, with the heat gun again. This will just help get the surface nice and uniform.
Hang up in a warmish place overnight, and you’re good to go!
This photo is in process. I initially used the bar, but didn’t like how it covered, so decided to use the tin even though it’s harder to work with. The left sleeve has yet to be coated at all, the back of the jacket in the middle was gone over once with the bar, and the right sleeve has the tinned fabric dressing wax.
I’ll post a photo of the finished product soon! -
Excellent tutorial neversummer. And fine taste in jackets as well. It looks really, really good with wax. Looking forward to the finished job.
I cant believe I never posted photos of my IHM-19 In this thread.
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@daltmeyer:
Excellent tutorial neversummer. And fine taste in jackets as well. It looks really, really good with wax. Looking forward to the finished job.
Word!
@neversummer when I get the chance I’ll copy this to The Resource Centre. Great work and thank you.
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@neversummer I waxed my IHM-10… It definitely a labourious task! it took me several hours (About 5-6) over two days...
But, you seem to be getting along far better than I did... cheers to that!
Can't wait to see it finished up
