Watches - another OCD problem
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The good old is a Watch with a known but cheap Movement worth the Price XY is so 2017
The one thing that the Basic Hodinkee Watch-Troll never even takes into consideration is that watches like e.g. the Pinion carry a unique Design where e.g. Stowa basicly does a Fliegeruhr, a Marine and some sort of Nomos meets Max Bill Design which means the whole Design Process is cut out of the Overall pricing which in turn results in much lower Prices.
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I'm pretty certain that every article on Hodinkee has the following responses:
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It's too big. Should be no more than 38 mm.
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It's too expensive. Should be 50% of what they're asking.
@Steffen I suspect that Stowa have a larger production than Pinion, which gives them better scales of economy. Seiko will be several order of magnitudes bigger.
The other thing is that you can't compare the finish of watches so easily from photos. A Tudor Black Bay isn't as well constructed as a Rolex Submariner or Sea Dweller, and you can see where corners have been cut. But you probably wouldn't notice the difference without holding both.
The Pinions that I've seen look pretty solid. That's going to cost money.
@neph93 I thought that the Norwegian government have employees to deal with those sorts of problems.
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If you're after a Patek Philippe Nautilus in steel, then might I suggest you buy before 1st March. Apparently prices are going to rise by 20% on that date.
The excuse seems to be that it's a way of combating the grey market. Or maybe Patek are being greedy.
Ironically, Thierry Stern, Patek's CEO, has criticised brands for raising prices above inflation…
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I'm pretty certain that every article on Hodinkee has the following responses:
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It's too big. Should be no more than 38 mm.
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It's too expensive. Should be 50% of what they're asking.
At least the first item has changed a bit. Remember when the standard response was, "it's too small. Anything under 45mm is for ladies or children."?
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If you're after a Patek Philippe Nautilus in steel, then might I suggest you buy before 1st March. Apparently prices are going to rise by 20% on that date.
The excuse seems to be that it's a way of combating the grey market. Or maybe Patek are being greedy.
Ironically, Thierry Stern, Patek's CEO, has criticised brands for raising prices above inflation…
duly noted. i'll make some enquires when i see my cousin over CNY..
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If you're after a Patek Philippe Nautilus in steel, then might I suggest you buy before 1st March. Apparently prices are going to rise by 20% on that date.
It's an awesome looking watch, like the Royal Oak, thank you Mr. Genta. Not sure I want to spend $25,000 on one though. Much less $30,000…
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The rumour is that the 5711 and 5712 are getting bumped up.
The Nautilus is a nice watch, but like @JDelage I don't think it's $30K nice. In fact I prefer the Aquanaut, and the steel Pilot's Calatrava (5522A) that they did as a US only model last year.
@Chris I'm quite liking some obnoxiously big watches these days. Probably because they're antifashion.
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That reminds me- I was watching LA to Vegas the other night and the pilot was wearing, appropriately enough, an IWC Big Pilot. I rather liked it.
The show is only ok, though.
Does that mean you're looking to replace your tiny Tender, @Graeme?
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@Chris the tiny Tender needs a bit of love right now. The crystal is cracked, the strap has split, and it probably needs a service.
I would like to get a new watch to replace it, but I've not been working as much as I should have been over the last year, and so am currently a bit broke. Assuming I get my life back in order, I'm tempted by the Omega Railmaster, LUC 8HF, and the Zenith Defy Lab (if a production version actually eventuates).
That said, I do like the limited edition IWC Big Pilot's Big Date anniversary special, so I might get something a bit larger.
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i think it depends on what you're wearing it with. i would think the aquanaut looks better as an everyday. but the nautilus can look nice when you're dressing up… but then again, you could swap the bracelet of the nautilus for something a little rugged..
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JLC - Memovox Tribute to Deep Sea Euro version on a vintage tropic watch strap. Love, love, love this watch. Polaris is a beaut also.
Who'se getting a Patek? Me likey, too
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@QuantumMechanic I do like the JLC Memovox models, and agree about the new Polaris.
I'm not planning on getting a Patek, and if I did would probably be the Aquanaut. I like the 5522A, but there are seventeen on Chrono24 selling for between $50K and $60K. That's not bad inflation for a piece that originally retailed for under $22K. :o
That said, Patek make 50,000 to 60,000 watches a year, so a run of 600 are a fair chunk of last year's production.
@louisbosco I suspect that an Aquanaut would dress up nicely on a leather strap.
As for the Nautilus, I'm not a fan of bracelets, and being an integrated design would make it harder to swap for a strap.
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@Graeme it's always a tough choice deciding between the two. i make a decision on which one i like better now and 3 months down the road, i'll probably forget which one it was. i do like the 'chequered' face on the aquanaut though..
is chrono24 really a good place to sus out current prices and retail prices?
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@louisbosco I've got no idea if Chrono24 is the best source of secondhand prices. It's more that it's a convenient place to check.
Incidentally, the Patek Advanced Research Aquanaut is being advertised around $160K there, versus $59K when new. I should've pulled my money out of the stock market and bought one instead. Especially after last week. :o
Surprisingly the rarer, earlier Advanced Research models are a lot cheaper. I suspect that a lot of things are speculative listings.
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new rubber b strap. unfortunately due to small wrists and the ability to cut the straps only on 1 side, they kinda sit awkwardly for now.. but i'm happy with it still..
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I'm always surprised that Rolex doesn't offer options for straps and bracelets.
For example, the Oysterflex looks like a fantastic design, but you can only buy it on a watch. If @louisbosco could have bought one, he might have gone that way instead of a Rubber B. (It looks good Louis, shame about the fitting issues.)
The real irony is that Tudor have gone in for alternative straps and bracelets in a big way…
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@Steffen I get the impression that Rolex do their own thing, and don't really concern themselves too much with what the consumers want. Somehow it's working for them.
It's possible that they're using Tudor to test things out, and maybe incorporate them into the core collection. For example, Tudor are very vintage influenced, and a few touches in the Rolex main line (such as the red line of text on the anniversary Sea Dweller) might be a nod to that.
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@Steffen @Graeme what you both said is pretty true. Tudor is the testing grounds for Rolex and also a place where they'll introduce something that they feel will not fit into the brand aesthetics of Rolex.
although they do not currently offer a 'rubber bracelet', i don't necessarily mind that face. couple issues with a rubber strap is that it's hard to adjust for wrist size. especially the ones that fit into the OEM clasp. with metal links, i can simple remove them. but with a rubber strap, once i cut them shorter, there's no going back.
now i could simple go out and find a glidelock clasp as with the ceramic Submariners. However, the rubber B strap for the glidelock clasp is different and doest have that green center line that looks great with the GMT hand..
fitting issues aside, i'll live. i actually like the rubber strap for a change.
