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The (Less intimidating) Watch Thread

Accessories
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  • C
    Chris
    Raw and Unwashed
    Joined: 28 Jun 2010

    I like it, but there's not much about it that's distinctive.  Dive watches are a competitive category, and a company with little to no name recognition is going to have a hard time breaking out of the pack with a watch that's simply "nice".

    last edited by 8 Jan 2018, 19:03 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
    • J
      JDelage
      啓蒙家
      Joined: 13 Jan 2012

      If I learned one thing from my exploration of the bronze diver rabbit hole, it's that's there are a lot more makers than I thought.

      I have to say I wonder what is going to happen to those micro-brands over time, and to the people who buy from them.

      last edited by 8 Jan 2018, 20:15 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • G
        Giles
        IHUK Crew
        Joined: 22 Sept 2009

        A lot will go bust and the people who bought their watches will have a problem….

        "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

        last edited by 8 Jan 2018, 20:16 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • J
          JDelage
          啓蒙家
          Joined: 13 Jan 2012

          Yes, I agree. It's probably much safer to have a single Rolex collection than 20 micro-brands, as boring as that sounds.

          last edited by 8 Jan 2018, 20:26 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • G
            Giles
            IHUK Crew
            Joined: 22 Sept 2009

            Who the feck wants to live life safe?

            "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

            last edited by 8 Jan 2018, 20:38 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • C
              Chris
              Raw and Unwashed
              Joined: 28 Jun 2010

              Actually, I think the micro brands aren't really risky.  They almost without exception use massively produced movements from major manufacturers.  Long after some company that sold a handful of watches before closing its doors is gone, ETA 2824 and Miyota 9015 movements and parts will be getting cranked out by the thousands.  And repair shops with the expertise to fix them will still be easy to find.

              I think the more dangerous proposition is a smaller brand that has a more "prestigious" in house engine under the hood.  If they go under, good luck finding parts or a qualified repairman.

              But yeah, a Rolex is always a safe choice…

              last edited by 8 Jan 2018, 20:54 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • G
                Giles
                IHUK Crew
                Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                Good point…...

                "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                last edited by 8 Jan 2018, 20:58 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • D
                  David_pll
                  Raw and Unwashed
                  Joined: 19 Aug 2014

                  Just came across this on eBay, aesthetically it’s what I enjoy so going to watch and see how it goes. A submariner is my end goal, but not quite just yet.

                  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                  last edited by 8 Jan 2018, 21:41 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • J
                    JDelage
                    啓蒙家
                    Joined: 13 Jan 2012

                    @Chris - Yes, what you say makes sense.

                    last edited by 8 Jan 2018, 23:51 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • D
                      DougNg
                      Joined: 24 Sept 2009

                      I like that the Challenger Deep uses a ceramic bezel. I much prefer the ceramic bezel to aluminum, and most divers I see still use aluminum (looking at you Tudor).

                      With that being said, I'm kind of surprised they went with a 60 click bezel.

                      I know violence is not the answer, I got it wrong on purpose

                      last edited by 1 Sept 2018, 00:47 9 Jan 2018, 00:42 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • G
                        Graeme
                        啓蒙家
                        Joined: 30 Mar 2012

                        @neph93:

                        @Graeme:

                        I don't think that it's as successful a design…

                        How do you mean? Aesthetically I find this rather attractive.

                        I meant to say that I didn't find it as successful a design as the Faver or the Oris. It's a nice watch, but it doesn't immediately jump out at me. It's a pleasant enough watch, but it's just a little bit conventional.

                        That said, it looks well executed (except on the bracelet), and it's not a hugely clunky diver's watch.

                        last edited by 9 Jan 2018, 03:30 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • G
                          Graeme
                          啓蒙家
                          Joined: 30 Mar 2012

                          I agree with what @Chris said, though I'd argue that there might be a problem getting things like replacement hands, dials, or case parts.

                          The biggest issue with in-house movements in future is likely to be silicon components. For a conventional movement, if a part isn't available, it'd be possible for watchmaker to machine a new one. But if you need a lithography process to get a new balance spring, then there might be a problem down the line.

                          Then again, you could buy something like the Mr Jones skull watch, and replace it every four or five years with a new one for what it'd cost to service a Rolex.

                          last edited by 9 Jan 2018, 04:23 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • J
                            JDelage
                            啓蒙家
                            Joined: 13 Jan 2012

                            I'm going to buy a dedicated diving watch. I've been wearing a Seamaster for the last 10 yrs, and it's a great watch but a shitty dedicated diver (the bezel is not made to be easily rotated).

                            My criteria are:

                            1. Max price $1,250 (some wiggle room for the right piece)
                            2. Water resistance >= 20 ATM
                            3. Well established, easily serviceable automatic movement
                            4. Quality materials in terms of solidity & resistance (within realistic limits of course) to dings, scratches, UV, sea water, sand, etc (high grade stainless or titanium, sapphire, ceramic, etc)
                            5. Unidirectional bezel with grippy profile that can be manipulated with fairly thick gloves
                            6. Bracelet or strap useable on land and under water, with or without a dive suit (or easily swappable for aftermarket ones)
                            7. High visibility dial & hands
                            8. Must be wearable out of the water in a 'casual smart' setting (long pants, BD shirt)
                            9. Near mint to new
                            10. <=43mm (will make exception for the right piece)

                            Not required but nice to have:

                            • Second time zone
                            • Date

                            Not trying to optimize for:

                            • Minimal price
                            • Brand prestige

                            I'm just starting my search (and a new Excel sheet - I know, I know…) Preliminary list includes the following watches, some of which fall outside those parameters:

                            Seiko SBDC051 (the clear winner from a purely rational standpoint)
                            Halios Seaforth (lovely design, maybe too pretty to be a tool)
                            H2O Marlin 40 (infinite customization, a lot of watch for the money)
                            Magrette Moana Pacific Professional Kara (lovely Ti piece, but not available for several months)
                            Steinhart Ocean Titanium 500 Premium
                            Damasko DSub2

                            last edited by 1 Oct 2018, 04:43 10 Jan 2018, 04:41 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • G
                              Graeme
                              啓蒙家
                              Joined: 30 Mar 2012

                              The Rado Captain Cook has an RRP of $1900, so a bit above your cutoff, but it's a lovely looking watch. Jason Heaton wrote a favourable review on Hodinkee. In fact, it was the watch he wore the most in 2017.

                              last edited by 10 Jan 2018, 07:21 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • N
                                neph93
                                見習いボス
                                Joined: 18 Aug 2014

                                That's nice ^

                                I feel like I want to comment a lot but my paucity of knowledge is preventing me. I just don't know what the different parts of a watch are called. I'm stuck on face, strap and hands. I know what a movement is now too and I think I have "crown" covered, but "bezel", I'm hazy on… It's a sad state of affairs I know. @Graeme do you know of a convenient resource/guide?

                                “Some of those that work forces
                                Are the same that burn crosses”

                                • Virginia Woolf
                                last edited by 10 Jan 2018, 09:00 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • U
                                  UnTucked
                                  Joined: 16 Nov 2014

                                  @neph93 I'm in the same boat, but I'm forcing myself to talk about watches more to build my knowledge and comfort. I'm even forcing myself to wear my Maranez every day so I can quantify what I do and don't like about it, note how well it's keeping time, and plan for my first "well thought out" watch purchase later this year.

                                  *So far I already know I want something that is more thin, that wears easily under a sleeve cuff… This beast I have now DOES NOT, so I find myself flipping up my left sleeve, or just taking my watch off after about half a day at work... I guess in the future, it will be a summertime/warm weather watch (Short sleeves)

                                  In search of:
                                  IHV-04, med.
                                  IHSH-185, large
                                  IHSH-186, large (khaki, and green)

                                  last edited by 10 Jan 2018, 09:38 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • G
                                    Graeme
                                    啓蒙家
                                    Joined: 30 Mar 2012

                                    No worries @neph93:

                                    • The bezel is the ring around the crystal on the front of the watch. On the Rado, above, it's the bit with the triangle, 15, 30, and 45 on it. It can be rotating (as above) or fixed.

                                    • The crown is the winder, which is typically on the right hand side of the watch.

                                    • The movement is the mechanical gubbins that you find inside the case.

                                    Hodinkee have a Watch 101, which lists all the important terms.

                                    last edited by 10 Jan 2018, 09:42 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • N
                                      neph93
                                      見習いボス
                                      Joined: 18 Aug 2014

                                      Thanks Graeme. I’ll study that link some.

                                      “Some of those that work forces
                                      Are the same that burn crosses”

                                      • Virginia Woolf
                                      last edited by 10 Jan 2018, 09:43 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • G
                                        Graeme
                                        啓蒙家
                                        Joined: 30 Mar 2012

                                        @UnTucked there are ultra-thin watches, which will slip under your cuff. This is the profile of the very expensive Bulgari Octo Finissimo, which is 5.15 mm (about 1/5") thick.

                                        More sensibly, a dress watch will be slimmer than a diver. The Hamilton Intra-Matic and Tissot Ballade Powermatic are around 10 mm (2/5") thick.

                                        A manual watch, where you need to wind the crown to power it, will often be slimmer than automatic, which is wound by your motion. These use a rotor, which is the semicircular piece of metal you can see on top of the movement, and this adds a millimetre or two to the thickness.

                                        last edited by 10 Jan 2018, 10:15 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • U
                                          UnTucked
                                          Joined: 16 Nov 2014

                                          I'll have to spend some time trying watches on…

                                          My Maranez measures in at 13.7mm thick, and though I love the look of this watch, it's not "practical" with my long sleeves shirts. But, 5.15mm sounds like the exact opposite end of the spectrum, lol! The Hamilton that I'm leaning towards measures in a 11mm thick... I'll be sure to wear a long sleeve shirt when I'm finally ready to try it on one day.

                                          In search of:
                                          IHV-04, med.
                                          IHSH-185, large
                                          IHSH-186, large (khaki, and green)

                                          last edited by 10 Jan 2018, 10:53 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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