There's no Such Thing as a Stupid Question
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When I said shorter sleeves, I was referring to half-sleeves or sleeves that end at the elbow joint. On reading it a third time, I realised that we weren't talking about the same kind of sleeves.
So with half sleeves, the guys with longer arms will find the sleeves ending at their biceps. Won't this fit more people?
@Ivan is pretty small and @Adam is not massive - more shots of them will be appearing, but it is a big big job to go and retro…
On a different note, wouldn't short sleeve shirts fit a larger group of people?
We went through this convo about 2-3 years ago, after a batch of UHF's Sewed up with shorter sleeves. Some people REALLY liked them, but the general consensus was that it's far better to sew shirts with longer (Standard) sleeve lengths, that to make them shorter. That way, if a person has shorter arms, they can do a warm or hot wash to shrink them down. But, if on the other hand shirts were sewn with shorter sleeve, there would be many people who are left out from buying shirts at all, because there is no way to "stretch" the sleeve length.
Not to mention, Iron Heart is a "functional motorcycle clothing" brand. One reason the sleeves are longer, is because when riding a bike, the riders arms are stretched out front, which causes the sleeves to ride up the arms. Longer sleeves prevents that from happening, or makes it less drastic.
So, "long story short" (Get it? LMAO!), longer sleeve lengths is the best solution for all parties.
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When I said shorter sleeves, I was referring to half-sleeves or sleeves that end at the elbow joint. On reading it a third time, I realised that we weren't talking about the same kind of sleeves.
So with half sleeves, the guys with longer arms will find the sleeves ending at their biceps. Won't this fit more people?
@Ivan is pretty small and @Adam is not massive - more shots of them will be appearing, but it is a big big job to go and retro…
On a different note, wouldn't short sleeve shirts fit a larger group of people?
We went through this convo about 2-3 years ago, after a batch of UHF's Sewed up with shorter sleeves. Some people REALLY liked them, but the general consensus was that it's far better to sew shirts with longer (Standard) sleeve lengths, that to make them shorter. That way, if a person has shorter arms, they can do a warm or hot wash to shrink them down. But, if on the other hand shirts were sewn with shorter sleeve, there would be many people who are left out from buying shirts at all, because there is no way to "stretch" the sleeve length.
Not to mention, Iron Heart is a "functional motorcycle clothing" brand. One reason the sleeves are longer, is because when riding a bike, the riders arms are stretched out front, which causes the sleeves to ride up the arms. Longer sleeves prevents that from happening, or makes it less drastic.
So, "long story short" (Get it? LMAO!), longer sleeve lengths is the best solution for all parties.
I think short sleeve UHF's would be a bit of an "oxymoron", for lack of a better word
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Also - @Giles I am guessing Gosport is also fairly humid. Is humidity a factor to consider while packing things to hand down to one's kids? Also, how do they keep rolls of deadstock denim for so many years?
Humidity is not a consideration in Gosport.
I've never thought how they keep the denim in Japan I'm afraid. I guess, just in dry, reasonably aired rooms.
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Stiff, but getting softer by the day. And I would like my next pair of jeans to be slow faders.
Yes, I didn't mean to include UHF's. I meant all other kinds of shirts which can have a cut similar to the IH Mechanic shirts.
Oh! Ok, got it.
BTW, how are your 634DD?
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I ask this because Cone Mills is shutting down and I am planning to buy about 5-8 yards of denim from their White Oak shop. I was wondering if storing it for a few years will need any kind of special storage.
Also - @Giles I am guessing Gosport is also fairly humid. Is humidity a factor to consider while packing things to hand down to one's kids? Also, how do they keep rolls of deadstock denim for so many years?
Humidity is not a consideration in Gosport.
I've never thought how they keep the denim in Japan I'm afraid. I guess, just in dry, reasonably aired rooms.
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Here’s a stupid-ish question: does anyone have a sure-fire method and/or product for preventing their thick leather patches from cracking? Particularly before/after a hot wash for shrinkage.
How I get my patches not to crack is by assuring they stay dry above the soak, only washing with cold water, and only briefly submerging them when I wash them. Then you can hit them with a THIN COAT of mink oil while they are still wet and allow it to completely dry.
For example my current pair of 888s I soaked in scalding hot water (by turning up the water heater up 2 hours prior) in 2 different soaks for 6 hours and it looked like this when dry because it was always above the hot water.
Also from a pair I've worn for the last 7 months washed about 5 times using my washing method.
It's got a wrinkle in it from my backpack smashing against the side when I walk. @YesBlank
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This post is deleted!
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@Giles what mill is the 21/23 oz denim made in? Is it the same as the old UHRS? And the same as the 25oz and 21 oz? The shade of indigo is as deep as the 25 and 21 oz and the hand feels super soft already. It is so nice.
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Thank you.
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Thanks for the patch advice. Guess it comes down to less shrinkage vs a few cosmetic issues with the patch. I’m definitely not bothered enough to remove and reattach the patch.
FWIW I’ve been using Danner Boot Dressing (clear) on my patches right after washing and it seems to do an acceptable job. Granted, these 777s have only been worn 45 times with 3 cold washes. -
@Filthy25ozJunkie:
Here’s a stupid-ish question: does anyone have a sure-fire method and/or product for preventing their thick leather patches from cracking? Particularly before/after a hot wash for shrinkage.
How I get my patches not to crack is by assuring they stay dry above the soak, only washing with cold water, and only briefly submerging them when I wash them. Then you can hit them with a THIN COAT of mink oil while they are still wet and allow it to completely dry.
For example my current pair of 888s I soaked in scalding hot water (by turning up the water heater up 2 hours prior) in 2 different soaks for 6 hours and it looked like this when dry because it was always above the hot water.
Also from a pair I've worn for the last 7 months washed about 5 times using my washing method.
It's got a wrinkle in it from my backpack smashing against the side when I walk. @YesBlank
Patch is beautiful Mike! I'm going to try this.
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Thanks buddy.
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I can't remember. I'll ask H this week….
The mill has to be the same as the IH-666SII. Feels close. But has the same hand as the 25oz denim worn after 2 months!! It's not as thick as the old UHRs. But is really great because it is so soft. I can't believe these are so soft after 24 hours wear and sleeping in them. I am already admiring the smoothness and soft hand of the denim. The denim is a masterpiece if you ask me. A work of art.
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How do I lock a thread I started? I have sold a shirt I listed in the Selling and Trades sections. I've added SOLD to the thread titles but can't find a lock button.
thanks
Bill
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Whats the difference between Chinos and Work pants? They kindve look the same to the untrained eye. Are there different cuts? I notice they are all in the 7xx or 8xx number range. Does this signify different cut?
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@daltmeyer:
Whats the difference between Chinos and Work pants? They kindve look the same to the untrained eye. Are there different cuts? I notice they are all in the 7xx or 8xx number range. Does this signify different cut?
I'm interested in the explanation to @daltmeyer 's question too.
