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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    Watches - another OCD problem

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    • Sugar MountainS
      Sugar Mountain
      Joined:

      Cheers Anesthetist. That GS is a beaut, so I understand. Likewise with the saving - I decided to put away a little on top of my regular savings each month, with a timeframe in mind for when I would finally cop the Black Bay. It's going to be all the sweeter to finally pick it up!

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      • GraemeG
        Graeme
        啓蒙家
        Joined:

        I asked about the Classique Chronométrie in the Breguet Bond Street boutique the other day, and the salesman asked if I'd like to take a look at it.

        This really is a special piece. The movement runs at 10 Hz, which is one of the fastest available. Most high beat designs run at 4 Hz, a few, such as the Zenith El Primero or the Seiko are at 5 Hz, whilst the Chopard 8HF runs at 8 Hz. The advantage is that this improves the accuracy, and the Breguet runs between -1 and +3 seconds per day, whereas a COSC certified chronometer will be between -4 and +6 seconds a day. Furthermore, this rate is tested over a 48 hour period, rather than 24 hours, which is what COSC uses, and so accounts for a greater proportion of the power reserve.

        The reason that manufacturers aren't turning out 10 Hz movements is that the escape wheel will move so fast that it would shed oil, which isn't what you want. Breguet are part of a consortium with Rolex and Patek who developed silicon components, and these don't need to be lubricated.

        The other trick is that the spring is supported by a magnetic pivot. This adds an element of shock resistance, as it will slip back into place if knocked out of alignment. Normally magnetism is a problem for watch movements, but silicon is amagnetic and so is unaffected.

        This was explained with a helpful model. The spring and the blue wheel are the silicon components.

        Breguet's watch boffins won the grand prize, the Aiguille d'Or at the GPHG for their efforts.

        The finishing on the watch is absolutely exquisite. The decorations on the dial are machined by hand, and the movement (which I don't have a picture of) is polished and chamfered.

        As for price, it's £29,000 in a yellow or white gold case. I need to get saving…

        If your budget doesn't stretch that far, the Marine series have a lower entry point at around £11,000. It makes for a dressier alternative to something like a Blancpain.

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        • ChrisC
          Chris
          Raw and Unwashed
          Joined:

          I saw pictures of that Marine series- really great attention to detail and the wave theme is carried throughout without looking gimmicky.  I thought the rotor was interestingly done, and I love any watch with a big date function.

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          • GraemeG
            Graeme
            啓蒙家
            Joined:

            A friend is after a watch at the other end of the price scale, and I took a look at a couple for her at the new Watches of Switzerland shop on Regent Street.

            From left to right, a 1960s Omega Constellation, Nomos Tangente 33, and Nomos Club.

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            • AnesthetistA
              Anesthetist
              見習いボス
              Joined:

              Get the Tangente. I wear mine all of the time and never get tired of the simplicity and beauty of the design. The club is nice but more contemporary. That particular Omega doesn't do much for me and service can be tricky.

              IG: bluehandsslim

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              • ChrisC
                Chris
                Raw and Unwashed
                Joined:

                The Tangente is really small, though.  I've never seen one, other than on the Internet, so maybe it doesn't seem so?

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                • GraemeG
                  Graeme
                  啓蒙家
                  Joined:

                  @Chris - all three of the above watches are small, being between 33 and 35 mm in diameter. The Tangente is a ladies design, so is even more diminutive than what we'd normally wear.

                  I've been wearing my Tender recently, so have got back into unfashionably tiny timepieces. There's a bit of an adjustment, but after that I'm fine.

                  Thanks for your thoughts @Anesthetist - I think that a Nomos makes a lot of sense. The Omega would probably also be a bit more delicate, as it's 50 years old too.

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                  • SeulS
                    Seul
                    Joined:

                    Now I'm looking at Omegas again…

                    More expensive than what I can spend, but still not thàt bad (2ndhand)...

                    800 quid (1000 €):

                    1300 $ (1000 €):

                    I would of course prefer this, but it's 2000 $ more…  😠

                    So yeah… Looking at Omegas again... Graeme, you bastard...

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                    • Finn666F
                      Finn666
                      Joined:

                      that 2nd one is dope @Seul …where from? 😠

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                      • SeulS
                        Seul
                        Joined:

                        First and second pic are the same watch. Second watch (third pic) is an Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra…

                        Have a looksie here, Rafa!.. http://www.watchrecon.com/?brand=omega

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                        • FridayF
                          Friday
                          Joined:

                          ^^ @Finn666 be prepared Rafa.. Once you clicked that link, you will be sucked into the 'dark side'

                          Tough, heavy and ready! = IRON HEART

                          ~Shinici Haraki~

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                          • Finn666F
                            Finn666
                            Joined:

                            feck 😠 shouldn't have clicked it! @Friday

                            😉

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                            • louisboscoL
                              louisbosco
                              啓蒙家
                              Joined:

                              @Friday:

                              ^^ @Finn666 be prepared Rafa.. Once you clicked that link, you will be sucked into the 'dark side'

                              YOU ARE RIGHT FRIDAY! i was wondering what linked and i searched the previous page to look for it and clicked it. now i endlessly looking through it..

                              "Loyalty is a two way street. If i'm asking for it from you, then you're getting it from me."

                              • Harvey Specter
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                              • den1mheadD
                                den1mhead
                                Raw and Unwashed
                                Joined:

                                Always loved aviation and aeronautics so this is the perfect watch for me.

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • Sugar MountainS
                                  Sugar Mountain
                                  Joined:

                                  I finally picked up my Tudor Black Bay this weekend:

                                  This is my first ''serious'' watch and I couldn't be happier with my choice. I think I will get years of wear out of this one and it will look even better with age. I can see how collecting watches starts though… Now I'm in, there's no going back!

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                                  • AnesthetistA
                                    Anesthetist
                                    見習いボス
                                    Joined:

                                    Epic pick up SM!!! You did well with the BB.

                                    IG: bluehandsslim

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                                    • QinhanQ
                                      Qinhan
                                      啓蒙家
                                      Joined:

                                      ^  Very nice.  I'd been waiting for you to post that.  You should give the blue NATO a try too as I reckon it looks great with that watch.

                                      Congrats on the watch.

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                                      • Sugar MountainS
                                        Sugar Mountain
                                        Joined:

                                        Thanks both. Qinhan, I'll probably try out the stock fabric strap or a genuine NATO next summer. Agreed that a fabric strap looks superb on the BB.

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                                        • tigerpacT
                                          tigerpac
                                          Joined:

                                          Congrats!  It begins!!

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                                          • M
                                            Maynard Friedman
                                            Joined:

                                            Very nice SM, I'm still thinking about getting the Tudor Heritage Ranger. Nice cuff too by the way, what's the shirt?

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