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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    Random questions to which you seek an answer

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    • L
      LandoCal126 0
      Banned
      Joined:

      Splattered asked this question and I figured I would put the answer here so that all new members need not ask again.

      Why do my jeans have a leg twist?

      "Many vintage jeans suffer from leg-twist. This is simply a natural adjustment of the fabric, which tends to follow the direction of the weave. Stefano Aldighieri, Director of Fabric & Finishing at LS&Co. explains it thus: “Levi’s® denim were mostly right hand twills; the twill line rises to the right. During the weaving process you basically ‘force’ the fabric to be straight, perpendicular to the selvage, but at the same time you give it this direction in the construction. You lay and cut the fabric; in the early days LS&Co. patterns were cut straight along the selvage. When you wash the garments, the fabric will try to follow the direction of the weave and will pull in that direction… hence the twisted legs, the result of the movement of fabric. Because Lee started to use left hand weave denims, their legs would twist the other way.” Leg twist was eliminated in the 1970s by skewing (which contorts denim to its after-wash shape)- and later revived with Levi’s® Red and Engineered jeans." - Via oki-ni

      The Sanforizing process on jeans like the IH-634S will eliminate this effect. Hope this helps...

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • S
        Splattered
        Joined:

        Ahhh ok yeah totally.

        The F380 are my only pair that have twisted post soak, the F310 did not… everything else i have i think is sanforized so i guess i just haven't noticed it till now.

        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • L
          LandoCal126 0
          Banned
          Joined:

          The F310's are unsanforized so I believe you should see some leg twist…

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • BeatleB
            Beatle
            Joined:

            yeah, but n ot that much..leg twist is really more common with lht

            We can do anything

            http://bybeatle.com

            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • L
              leftofthedial
              Joined:

              random question, but after getting my new jeans i have to ask…

              will iron heart ever make a standard 634S in an unsanforized version?

              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • madmondayM
                madmonday
                Raw and Unwashed
                Joined:

                LOD, that sounds like a pretty great question to post up here:

                http://www.ironheart.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=603.msg21181#msg21181

                & believe me Lando will ask.  A couple months back he asked him my pretty lame question about the colors they were using on the tees.

                head high, middle finger higher

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • deadendproD
                  deadendpro
                  啓蒙家
                  Joined:

                  @leftofthedial:

                  random question, but after getting my new jeans i have to ask…

                  will iron heart ever make a standard 634S in an unsanforized version?

                  if its not broken, dont fix it.

                  plus, if you are looking for something unsanforized and IH, the SR is what has been made along with the SEXIH07's.

                  i think it would be interesting to see, but i really doubt that they would want to mess with their winning formula. i hear Ironheart and i think 634S

                  Currently Wearing:
                  SExSx3s 27-01
                  15.4oz 3sixteen Type 3
                  25oz Samurai Type 1

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • L
                    leftofthedial
                    Joined:

                    @deadendpro:

                    @leftofthedial:

                    random question, but after getting my new jeans i have to ask…

                    will iron heart ever make a standard 634S in an unsanforized version?

                    if its not broken, dont fix it.

                    plus, if you are looking for something unsanforized and IH, the SR is what has been made along with the SEXIH07's.

                    i think it would be interesting to see, but i really doubt that they would want to mess with their winning formula. i hear Ironheart and i think 634S

                    @monday:

                    LOD, that sounds like a pretty great question to post up here:

                    http://www.ironheart.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=603.msg21181#msg21181

                    & believe me Lando will ask.  A couple months back he asked him my pretty lame question about the colors they were using on the tees.

                    monday, good call.

                    and deadendpro i just got the SExIH07, which made me think about it. i like the 634 fit  A LOT. they were my first sanforized pair of selvedge jeans, but i like the feel of these so much more.

                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • GilesG
                      Giles
                      IHUK Crew
                      Joined:

                      I have an unsanforised 18oz denim which Haraki made for me.  It has great heft and is nice and slubby, I have a couple of projects in mind, but a 634S cut is not one of them I am afraid.

                      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • L
                        leftofthedial
                        Joined:

                        as soon as i got the SExIH07 i fell in love. i also love the 634 cut. i knew you'd said something about a '55 repro G, so i didn't know if something would ever come along that was similar to the 634 in unsanforized denim.

                        no worries. i'm sure i will purchase many pairs of 634s in the future!

                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • GilesG
                          Giles
                          IHUK Crew
                          Joined:

                          I think that the 634S is untamperable with.  The cut is great, the denim is great and it is Harakis signature jean.  I have 2 slims and a jean a little slimmer than a 634S coming out soon (ish).  Final (hopefully) samples are with Haraki on the plane to UK as I type.  I am also working on a couple of 55 collabs for new retailers…G

                          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • L
                            leftofthedial
                            Joined:

                            that sounds awesome! can't wait to see what comes of all this. i'm sure my bank account will suffer!

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • deadendproD
                              deadendpro
                              啓蒙家
                              Joined:

                              @Giles:

                              I think that the 634S is untamperable with.  The cut is great, the denim is great and it is Harakis signature jean.  I have 2 slims and a jean a little slimmer than a 634S coming out soon (ish).  Final (hopefully) samples are with Haraki on the plane to UK as I type.  I am also working on a couple of 55 collabs for new retailers…G

                              again, if its not broken, dont fix it.

                              Cant wait to see what else you come up with G-man.

                              Currently Wearing:
                              SExSx3s 27-01
                              15.4oz 3sixteen Type 3
                              25oz Samurai Type 1

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • malibuboyM
                                malibuboy
                                Joined:

                                @deadendpro:

                                @Giles:

                                I think that the 634S is untamperable with.  The cut is great, the denim is great and it is Harakis signature jean.  I have 2 slims and a jean a little slimmer than a 634S coming out soon (ish).  Final (hopefully) samples are with Haraki on the plane to UK as I type.  I am also working on a couple of 55 collabs for new retailers…G

                                again, if its not broken, dont fix it.

                                Cant wait to see what else you come up with G-man.

                                ABSOLUTELY!

                                the 634S is my perfect jean (currently)

                                simon

                                It acquires because of the cotton 100% and true goodness is understood.

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • SeulS
                                  Seul
                                  Joined:

                                  My mate asked me this question:

                                  _Those triple work tapered jeans looks killer. I was even considering buying some "premium" jeans to avoid wearing little kid-sewn Levis that I just have to rebuy every 6 months anyway. Then I see that IH uses Zimbabwe cotton. Not into financing the Mugabe regime.

                                  So, any idea which brands I should be looking into if I want first world cotton woven by first world weavers and sewn by first world tailors? Heh._

                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • T
                                    that_was_easy
                                    Joined:

                                    I can understand your buddy not wanting to support Mugabe, but 'first world' is a somewhat loaded and problematic term, depending on one's perspective. Being from the one of the largest agrcultural regions in the US I can tell you business conditions and the negative influence thereof are often more deplorable in the 'first/developed world'.  One of the major issues with Zimbabwe cotton, as I understand it, isn't that it necessarily funds the Mugabe regime, but rather his government and much of the farming community of the nation seem to be at odds with one another, causing problems for many small farmers.  Cottco is the private holding company that manages Zimbabwe cotton:

                                    "The Cottco investigation comes after recent criticism of the company by President Robert Mugabe, who alleged that the firm was externalising scarce foreign currency."

                                    From: http://allafrica.com/stories/200401260670.html

                                    Also: If I remember Zimbabwe had insane inflation…so, wouldn't that make their currency (too) plentiful, instead of scarce?@Seul:

                                    My mate asked me this question:

                                    _Those triple work tapered jeans looks killer. I was even considering buying some "premium" jeans to avoid wearing little kid-sewn Levis that I just have to rebuy every 6 months anyway. Then I see that IH uses Zimbabwe cotton. Not into financing the Mugabe regime.

                                    So, any idea which brands I should be looking into if I want first world cotton woven by first world weavers and sewn by first world tailors? Heh._

                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • SeulS
                                      Seul
                                      Joined:

                                      Thanks t_w_e!.. My mate's response. Not that I wanna drag this out or make a drama about it (Seth exaggerates the situation a bit in his description), just something I had actually never thought about, but he makes a good point… I'd rather not support a homophobic, racist b*stard such as Mugabi y'know...  😎

                                      _Did some more reading since that first post. The situation for cotton farmers in Zimbabwe is dismal at best. They're waaaay underpaid for their crops, as the exports are either handled by Cottco or Cargill, both huge corporations. So farmers are often paid less than the price necessary to even break even.

                                      As for the US ag industry, I too live right in the middle of it. Your dude isn't wrong; it's not pretty for a lot if families. Corporate exploitation by Monsanto etc, has driven most of them into the red. But that's a rotten comparison. If an American farm family hits bottom, they get food stamps and wear thrift clothing. Maybe lose their home. If a Zimbabwean farm family hits bottom, they die of starvation before the AIDS that a quarter of the country's population has can get them.

                                      I think your guys are probably choosing quality cotton over social responsibility. Which, I mean, is their decision. Just means that I'll have to shop for retardedly expensive jeans elsewhere. Haha. Thanks for the Samurai link, on that note!_

                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • S
                                        sergedenimes
                                        Joined:

                                        @Seul:

                                        Thanks t_w_e!.. My mate's response. Not that I wanna drag this out or make a drama about it (Seth exaggerates the situation a bit in his description), just something I had actually never thought about, but he makes a good point… I'd rather not support a homophobic, racist b*stard such as Mugabi y'know...  😎

                                        _Did some more reading since that first post. The situation for cotton farmers in Zimbabwe is dismal at best. They're waaaay underpaid for their crops, as the exports are either handled by Cottco or Cargill, both huge corporations. So farmers are often paid less than the price necessary to even break even.

                                        As for the US ag industry, I too live right in the middle of it. Your dude isn't wrong; it's not pretty for a lot if families. Corporate exploitation by Monsanto etc, has driven most of them into the red. But that's a rotten comparison. If an American farm family hits bottom, they get food stamps and wear thrift clothing. Maybe lose their home. If a Zimbabwean farm family hits bottom, they die of starvation before the AIDS that a quarter of the country's population has can get them.

                                        I think your guys are probably choosing quality cotton over social responsibility. Which, I mean, is their decision. Just means that I'll have to shop for retardedly expensive jeans elsewhere. Haha. Thanks for the Samurai link, on that note!_

                                        Definitely food for thought!!

                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • L
                                          LandoCal126 0
                                          Banned
                                          Joined:

                                          @Seul:

                                          I think your guys are probably choosing quality cotton over social responsibility. Which, I mean, is their decision. Just means that I'll have to shop for retardedly expensive jeans elsewhere. Haha. Thanks for the Samurai link, on that note!

                                          😞 😛 ::)
                                          http://www.megavideo.com/?v=OEGO9ZF2

                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • SeulS
                                            Seul
                                            Joined:

                                            Guy has a condescending air about him, I know Landon. He is super PC and we clash often.

                                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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