ULTRA HEAVY RAW - IH-1955-UHR, IH-666-UHR and IH-634-UHR
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^^ yes, but then the thighs remain tight and the rise of the 634 is more "universally appealing". For really slim guys, the 666 is perfect. but athletic or bigger built folks seem to be better off with the 634.
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@adam313:
Create a "Progressive" Cut:
1. Cuts like the 666, 555, and IHxB do not work for people with waists 31" and under (ME!):
-The top block is too small, or the thigh measurement is too small, or the knee and leg opening are too small
2. Cuts like the 634 and DC4… do not work for larger folk:
-The knee and/or leg opening is much too large to be practical/comfortableSo, smaller people need a straight cut (except for some female customers), and larger people need a slight/moderate taper...
Why not make a cut that is a straight 634 from sizes 28-31, and then using the top block from the 634 make sizes 32-35 similar to the 666 from the mid-thigh down, and finally make sizes 36-40 similar to the 555 from the mid-thigh down?
Of course I am speaking with a 634 bias. 23oz. jeans should never be skin tight
Thanks for this. Exactly what I've been trying to say(with bias towards the bigger sizes).
One cut for all would be a dream. I know most of you think the 634 is that, but it's one of the most unflattering cuts I've ever seen on anyone size 34 up with inseam 32in and smaller.
The Final Cut would require major thigh to knee and knee to hem tapering(which IH has never done that I know of).
That is why like the 55 cut roomy through thighs and a nice clean taper from knee to ankle. Not to mention the jean still gives a slim looking silhouette. Maybe a more modern 55 cut with a front and rear rise similar to the Mega Beatle Buster.
Tinman on the go…
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@Max:
Seconding Urb and adam (and many others). The 634 cut is fantastic on guys with small waist, but 33 and above looks strange, as the leg is getting so wide. A little more taper would fix this. around 8,25" leg opening with 33/34 waist would be a great tube cut, but not a skinny one.
That said, I think the 666 and 634 would sell great. The 555 cut in 23 oz - well, I don't even want to speak about comfort then. But it would sell, I'm sure.
I concur!! I love the 634 cut and I am size 34 with long legs. a little taper to the ankle hem would be nice. I prefer a leg opening no bigger the 9 inches, but really like an 8.5 inch opening.
Tinman on the go…
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^A modified 55 cut with a lower rise, especially the front rise would definitely grab my attention … An authentic 55 FR and having a bit of a gut/belly don't mix is my experience
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I think the rise would have to be lowered for the 55 cut to sell well. Most people don't want jeans that come up to their belly button. From about the hips down, the 55 does look good, and works especially well for the strong thighs guys.
EDIT: Damn, FurattoHeddo beat me to it.
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I already own a 1955, and I would buy another pair in this denim. I don't have any strong opinions about the rise, but I agree with those who say that a lower rise would sell better and make for a good, universal cut. Personally, I'd also prefer even more taper from the knee and down.
Giles, in the 1955S thread you said that you had to make and sell at least 100 pairs of a particular jean in order to profit. Does the same math apply for this denim? For instance, does it cost you more to make 700 634S and 40 1955S, than just 740 634S? Just curious
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If it was made once why can't it be made again?
If what was made once? If you are talking the SE collab jacket, that is a completely different denim.
If H can make the material, we will def do 634 and 666
My question is, why wouldn't he be able to make the 21/23 oz denim again? It's been made before so what's stopping him from making it again if you order it?
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If H can make the material, we will def do 634 and 666
This is music to my ears - well, it'll certainly give me a tricky decision anyway…
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My question is, why wouldn't he be able to make the 21/23 oz denim again? It's been made before so what's stopping him from making it again if you order it?
Fuck knows, but if H says no, I don't push back. That's just the way H and I work….If he say no, I accept it and move on
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Giles, in the 1955S thread you said that you had to make and sell at least 100 pairs of a particular jean in order to profit. Does the same math apply for this denim? For instance, does it cost you more to make 700 634S and 40 1955S, than just 740 634S? Just curious
I'm not sure I ever said "to profit", but the basic rule is, I can't make less than 100 jeans of a material/cut without pissing off the factory. I'm ugly enough to not care about pissing them off occasionally, but each time I do that, my ability to ask for favours diminishes, so I try not to…...
