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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    Making Boots

    Footwear
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    • FridayF
      Friday
      Joined:

      Looks great.. Congrats

      Tough, heavy and ready! = IRON HEART

      ~Shinici Haraki~

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      • HemiH
        Hemi
        Joined:

        @simonc:

        Dark Brown seems to have the best shape.  I was reading if you don't use a second layer on the top cap it will flatten down and look like a slipper.

        They're built on the same last so the shape is the same.  The toe is lasted by hand so there are those beautiful slight variations (that signal handmade) and I think each leather seems to react and look different as well… much like denim.

        I use a medium celastic material to hold the shape of the toe box which sits between the lining and upper.

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        • SpaceGnomeS
          SpaceGnome
          Joined:

          nice work.  i would wear the shit out of those

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • toddjcoleyT
            toddjcoley
            Joined:

            just wanting to know how much of the boot you make hemi? or are you just a designer? Either way looking great and will be coming to NZ for a pair!

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            • HemiH
              Hemi
              Joined:

              I:

              • Design the boots
              • Handpick the leather from the best NZ Tannery
              • Select imported leather sole bends
              • Design the rubber sole/heel then have them made in NZ
              • Have the boots put together by a fantastic NZ craftsman

              Its quite a process, I work with a minimum of four other parties to bring these boots to life.  Next week I travel to Melbourne to visit the master last maker to work on a new model.  He's the only guy left in NZ/Australia still doing this on a commercial scale.

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              • riffblaster generalR
                riffblaster general
                Raw and Unwashed
                Joined:

                Stoked on these!

                PUT DOWN THAT STARBUCKS, PICK UP THAT GNARBUCKS!!

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                • ArabitA
                  Arabit
                  Joined:

                  The Oiled Pebbled Brown is awesome!
                  Forum Discount  😉 😉 j/k
                  Keep it up Hemi

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                  • HemiH
                    Hemi
                    Joined:

                    ^ Maybe I can find a special leather for the IH crew?

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                    • LuciferL
                      Lucifer
                      Joined:

                      Great work so far! Really great! Like the low profile toe.

                      Seize the day and don't you cry.

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                      • natehateN
                        natehate
                        啓蒙家
                        Joined:

                        @Hemi:

                        ^ Maybe I can find a special leather for the IH crew?

                        Horse 😉

                        don't you know there ain't no devil? only god when he's drunk!

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                        • simoncS
                          simonc
                          Banned
                          Joined:

                          Sorta making boots http://www.shop.outlier.cc/shop/retail/upgrade.html now all i need is a box cutter and some hide.

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                          • HemiH
                            Hemi
                            Joined:

                            Tasman Tannery makes the world class leather I use on my handmade boots so I thought it would be a good idea to spend a day going through the plant and learning about the process.

                            The Tannery has been operating since 1953 and is situated next to the Whanganui River where it meets the Tasman Sea (there just happens to be a surf break down the road so I made sure I got their early to check it out). It’s the only bovine tannery in Australasia still making finished leather from raw hides so the operation is relatively big with approximately 250 employees processing around 14,000 hides a week. I can tell you, these guys work hard and long hours with certain sections of the plant running day and night.  Even with state of the art machinery every single hide is checked by hand at each stage to make sure it makes the grade.

                            All of the raw hides are by-products of the meat industry and come from local farms between the central North Island and the top of the South Island. The quality of the original raw hide is still key. Each hide is unique, and reveals its history in its texture, grain, and its scars, nicks and rubs.  Lucky for us New Zealand has the perfect climate and landscape for farming strong and healthy cattle with high quality hides.

                            Here are some photos I took of the operation.  I was going to write about each process but its so involved and technical that my head started to hurt!  Let’s just say it’s an incredible combination of old and new technology, science and experience.

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                            • HemiH
                              Hemi
                              Joined:

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • GilesG
                                Giles
                                IHUK Crew
                                Joined:

                                Brilliant….

                                "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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                                • S
                                  Snowy
                                  Joined:

                                  @Hemi:

                                  What a beautiful looking machine.

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                                  • simoncS
                                    simonc
                                    Banned
                                    Joined:

                                    Is it all steer Hemi or do they process any other kind of skin?

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                                    • HemiH
                                      Hemi
                                      Joined:

                                      ^^ This is a machine press that embosses the leather. The plates they use to do this cost USD $16,000 each (image above the Mostardini).

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                                      • S
                                        Snowy
                                        Joined:

                                        Thanks for the description, really appreciate seeing inside the factory.

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                                        • HemiH
                                          Hemi
                                          Joined:

                                          Simonc, just steer and cow from local farms.

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                                          • Finn666F
                                            Finn666
                                            Joined:

                                            @Giles:

                                            Brilliant….

                                            yap!…

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