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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    Watches - another OCD problem

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    • GilesG
      Giles
      IHUK Crew
      Joined:

      I LOVE that…..

      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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      • S
        Steffen
        Joined:

        The Mont Blanc Chrono is splendid. The 48 Vintage is a bit too Vintage for me, Mark XVIII Edition «Tribute to Mark 11» is my Favorit of the Pilot Series at the Moment.

        The new Lange Triple Split is an Intense Piece of Watchmaking, a Dress Watch with the Measurements of a Full blown Diver and the most compliacted Clockwork ever.

        https://www.alange-soehne.com/en/triple-split

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        • GraemeG
          Graeme
          啓蒙家
          Joined:

          @Giles I wish Jaeger had done a reissue based on the Polaris II from the 1970s, though that loses the super compressor case. It is, however, very blue.

          @Steffen I agree on the Lange. For those who haven't seen it, Hodinkee have a write-up.

          If you're into chronographs, the FP Journe Rattrapante is interesting. The titanium version is my favourite, but they all look a bit over-styled for my tastes.

          Given how obsessed everyone is with vintage, I really like that the Hermès Carré H has gone for a simple, modern design. It's one of my favourite pieces from SIHH.

          Lastly, there's the H Moser & Cie Endeavour, which has an Urwerk style orbital hours display. (Urwerk are planning a mechanical watch that's regulated by an atomic clock)!

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          • GilesG
            Giles
            IHUK Crew
            Joined:

            @Graeme:

            Vomit

            "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • S
              Steffen
              Joined:

              My Favorit Vintage Watch is already remade by Jaeger, the Deep Sea.

              http://www.jaeger-lecoultre.com/eu/de/watches/master-extreme/jaeger-lecoultre-deep-sea-chronograph/207857J.html

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              • JDelageJ
                JDelage
                啓蒙家
                Joined:

                I like the JLC Memovox. What is the intent of the compressor case though? Tracking a second time zone?

                I like that Carre Hermes. Those French, they have an eye for design!  😉

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                • ChrisC
                  Chris
                  Raw and Unwashed
                  Joined:

                  @DougNg:

                  That thing is the singularly worst doohickey I have ever purchased

                  You bought that?  Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • DougNgD
                    DougNg
                    Joined:

                    Yeah, impulse purchase. Motherfucker caught on everything. Went back to Amazon in a few hours

                    I know violence is not the answer, I got it wrong on purpose

                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • GraemeG
                      Graeme
                      啓蒙家
                      Joined:

                      @JDelage:

                      I like the JLC Memovox. What is the intent of the compressor case though? Tracking a second time zone?

                      It's basically a rotating bezel, like on a diver's watch, only it's mounted inside the case. It's intended for tracking dive times. The original JLC Polaris was designed for diving.

                      I suspect that mounting it internally protects it, stops it from being knocked out of position, and makes the watch look cool.

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • louisboscoL
                        louisbosco
                        啓蒙家
                        Joined:

                        some good watches at SIHH this year. the AP ultra thin perpetual calendar, platinum and titanium RO and the lange are a few of my favs..

                        "Loyalty is a two way street. If i'm asking for it from you, then you're getting it from me."

                        • Harvey Specter
                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • JDelageJ
                          JDelage
                          啓蒙家
                          Joined:

                          What do people think of Limited Edition, and their impact on "collectability"? I see watches that retail for North of $5k with limited editions North of 500 units. Is that really limited? I'm curious.

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                          • GraemeG
                            Graeme
                            啓蒙家
                            Joined:

                            Limited editions seem to go one of two ways: Either they sell out immediately, and are never seen again. Or they hang around in stores for years, despite being part of a small run.

                            Of course, the dealer will always tell you that there's an enormous demand. 😃

                            Personally, I like limited editions  that aren't what's usually available from a brand. For example:

                            • The Jaeger Geophysic limited edition had a chronometer rated movement, and an antimagnetic case. I'm really gutted at missing out on this.

                            • The Chopard 8HF has an 8 Hz movement. Most watches run at 3 to 4 Hz.

                            • The first Zenith Type 20 Pilot Montre d'Aeronef used a vintage movement from a deck chronometer in a massively oversized case.

                            • The Patek Philippe 5522A is a Calatrava dressed up as a pilot's watch, and offered in a steel case.

                            Montblanc are offering their Minerva-based 1858 watches in limited editions of a hundred, but seem to be repeating them when one sells out. For example, they've done several chronographs, and two runs of the Rally Timer, with different colours each time. I think that it's a bit of a marketing thing, but I'll forgive them because they're lovely. 🙂

                            Perhaps the best approach would be if you like the watch, it offers something that the standard model doesn't, and you're OK paying the premium, then go ahead. You probably won't see your money back, but then again you don't with most timepieces!

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                            • DougNgD
                              DougNg
                              Joined:

                              Unless it's the Speedy Snoopy…then you'll definitely get your money back...;)

                              I know violence is not the answer, I got it wrong on purpose

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • JDelageJ
                                JDelage
                                啓蒙家
                                Joined:

                                Here's a watch that would look great with denim: https://www.grand-seiko.jp/sbgj231/

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                                • GraemeG
                                  Graeme
                                  啓蒙家
                                  Joined:

                                  Lange was brought back to life by Walter Lange in the nineties, and passed away last year. To commemorate him, they produced a series of watches in precious metals, along with a unique, steel piece, pictured below, which is going to be auctioned off for a truly obscene amount of money.

                                  Of course, the real showstopper is the movement…

                                  The watch has a small seconds display, which runs as a sweep, and the centre seconds jumps.

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                                  • JDelageJ
                                    JDelage
                                    啓蒙家
                                    Joined:

                                    The stamp on the case back says "Au 750"… Are you sure it's steel?  :-\

                                    Also, is that a finger print on the lug?

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                                    • DougNgD
                                      DougNg
                                      Joined:

                                      That is singularly one of the most beautiful watches I've ever seen

                                      I know violence is not the answer, I got it wrong on purpose

                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • ChrisC
                                        Chris
                                        Raw and Unwashed
                                        Joined:

                                        Except for all those misaligned screws.

                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • GraemeG
                                          Graeme
                                          啓蒙家
                                          Joined:

                                          @JDelage the photo of the movement is from one of the white gold models. It's one of a handful of images of the back of this watch, and was a bit of a struggle to find.

                                          @DougNg I agree with you on the Lange (and MOLLE webbing in the bags thread). It looks like your opinions are getting more popular! 😃

                                          @Chris hopefully a watchmaker will start aligning screws, so your OCD can get a rest. 😛

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                                          • GraemeG
                                            Graeme
                                            啓蒙家
                                            Joined:

                                            This is the Ulysse Nardin Diver Le Locle. It's a tasteful, cool, vintage inspired watch, with a high-tech movement at its heart. Monochrome has a write-up if you want to know more.

                                            Somehow the same company has produced the Diver Deep Dive, which is neither tasteful nor cool. On the upside, it has sharks on the dial. Monochrome also has a write-up from SIHH, though I'm not convinced you'll want to know more. :o

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