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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    Watches - another OCD problem

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    • GraemeG
      Graeme
      啓蒙家
      Joined:

      @JDelage:

      I like the JLC Memovox. What is the intent of the compressor case though? Tracking a second time zone?

      It's basically a rotating bezel, like on a diver's watch, only it's mounted inside the case. It's intended for tracking dive times. The original JLC Polaris was designed for diving.

      I suspect that mounting it internally protects it, stops it from being knocked out of position, and makes the watch look cool.

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • louisboscoL
        louisbosco
        啓蒙家
        Joined:

        some good watches at SIHH this year. the AP ultra thin perpetual calendar, platinum and titanium RO and the lange are a few of my favs..

        "Loyalty is a two way street. If i'm asking for it from you, then you're getting it from me."

        • Harvey Specter
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        • JDelageJ
          JDelage
          啓蒙家
          Joined:

          What do people think of Limited Edition, and their impact on "collectability"? I see watches that retail for North of $5k with limited editions North of 500 units. Is that really limited? I'm curious.

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • GraemeG
            Graeme
            啓蒙家
            Joined:

            Limited editions seem to go one of two ways: Either they sell out immediately, and are never seen again. Or they hang around in stores for years, despite being part of a small run.

            Of course, the dealer will always tell you that there's an enormous demand. 😃

            Personally, I like limited editions  that aren't what's usually available from a brand. For example:

            • The Jaeger Geophysic limited edition had a chronometer rated movement, and an antimagnetic case. I'm really gutted at missing out on this.

            • The Chopard 8HF has an 8 Hz movement. Most watches run at 3 to 4 Hz.

            • The first Zenith Type 20 Pilot Montre d'Aeronef used a vintage movement from a deck chronometer in a massively oversized case.

            • The Patek Philippe 5522A is a Calatrava dressed up as a pilot's watch, and offered in a steel case.

            Montblanc are offering their Minerva-based 1858 watches in limited editions of a hundred, but seem to be repeating them when one sells out. For example, they've done several chronographs, and two runs of the Rally Timer, with different colours each time. I think that it's a bit of a marketing thing, but I'll forgive them because they're lovely. 🙂

            Perhaps the best approach would be if you like the watch, it offers something that the standard model doesn't, and you're OK paying the premium, then go ahead. You probably won't see your money back, but then again you don't with most timepieces!

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            • DougNgD
              DougNg
              Joined:

              Unless it's the Speedy Snoopy…then you'll definitely get your money back...;)

              I know violence is not the answer, I got it wrong on purpose

              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • JDelageJ
                JDelage
                啓蒙家
                Joined:

                Here's a watch that would look great with denim: https://www.grand-seiko.jp/sbgj231/

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • GraemeG
                  Graeme
                  啓蒙家
                  Joined:

                  Lange was brought back to life by Walter Lange in the nineties, and passed away last year. To commemorate him, they produced a series of watches in precious metals, along with a unique, steel piece, pictured below, which is going to be auctioned off for a truly obscene amount of money.

                  Of course, the real showstopper is the movement…

                  The watch has a small seconds display, which runs as a sweep, and the centre seconds jumps.

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • JDelageJ
                    JDelage
                    啓蒙家
                    Joined:

                    The stamp on the case back says "Au 750"… Are you sure it's steel?  :-\

                    Also, is that a finger print on the lug?

                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • DougNgD
                      DougNg
                      Joined:

                      That is singularly one of the most beautiful watches I've ever seen

                      I know violence is not the answer, I got it wrong on purpose

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • ChrisC
                        Chris
                        Raw and Unwashed
                        Joined:

                        Except for all those misaligned screws.

                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • GraemeG
                          Graeme
                          啓蒙家
                          Joined:

                          @JDelage the photo of the movement is from one of the white gold models. It's one of a handful of images of the back of this watch, and was a bit of a struggle to find.

                          @DougNg I agree with you on the Lange (and MOLLE webbing in the bags thread). It looks like your opinions are getting more popular! 😃

                          @Chris hopefully a watchmaker will start aligning screws, so your OCD can get a rest. 😛

                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • GraemeG
                            Graeme
                            啓蒙家
                            Joined:

                            This is the Ulysse Nardin Diver Le Locle. It's a tasteful, cool, vintage inspired watch, with a high-tech movement at its heart. Monochrome has a write-up if you want to know more.

                            Somehow the same company has produced the Diver Deep Dive, which is neither tasteful nor cool. On the upside, it has sharks on the dial. Monochrome also has a write-up from SIHH, though I'm not convinced you'll want to know more. :o

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • ChrisC
                              Chris
                              Raw and Unwashed
                              Joined:

                              But that Diver Deep Dive is a limited edition, so it's bound to increase in value, right?

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • DougNgD
                                DougNg
                                Joined:

                                WHY??? Just…why?

                                I actually think the design is pretty neat, then they put those stupid sharks all over it.

                                I know violence is not the answer, I got it wrong on purpose

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • JDelageJ
                                  JDelage
                                  啓蒙家
                                  Joined:

                                  I do like the top one. A 100m WR is subpar though (I realize that nobody is likely to dive with it). Also, aluminum bezel, seriously?

                                  When I first got interested in watches in the 90's, UN was doing amazing enameled dials and chiming watches.

                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • GraemeG
                                    Graeme
                                    啓蒙家
                                    Joined:

                                    Hodinkee are reporting on a couple of new Zenith chronographs.

                                    First up is the Zenith Defy El Primero 21 with a Panda dial. I saw the skeletonised model a few weeks back, which I think looks better, but this one would be easier to read. I believe it's cheaper too.

                                    There's a debate as to whether the second Zenith logo on the crystal is a sticker or not. I'm hoping it's the latter, as it looks messy in the photo.

                                    The other is the Zenith Tipo CP-2, which is an unlimited version of the limited edition CP-2 released last year. The differences are that the new model has either an aged stainless steel or bronze case (pictured below), rather than polished steel, a display back has been added, and it's now a flyback movement.

                                    Both pieces look good. They're pretty large watches (44 and 43 mm respectively), which has elicited comments from the peanut gallery at Hodinkee, but I like them. Of the two, I'd go for the Defy.

                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • AppfaffA
                                      Appfaff
                                      Raw and Unwashed
                                      Joined:

                                      That brass flyback is stunning.

                                      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • ChrisC
                                        Chris
                                        Raw and Unwashed
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                                        "Aged" stainless steel?  C'mon Zenith, isn't the point of stainless steel that it doesn't, y'know, age?

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                                        • Q
                                          QuantumMechanic
                                          Joined:

                                          P.S. Zenith Jumped the shark years ago…https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jumping_the_shark

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                                          • neph93N
                                            neph93
                                            見習いボス
                                            Joined:

                                            ^ Coincidentally I was browsing that particular Rolex series only today. Lovely watch and fun shirt combo.

                                            «Stevie Heighway on the wing!
                                            We had dreams, and songs to sing…»

                                            • Dame Vera Lynn
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