Watches - another OCD problem
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They're transitioning into the new "super premium luxury tool watch" category.
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They're transitioning into the new "super premium luxury tool watch" category.
Expect a hand-polished version of the Leatherman Tread from Lange in white, yellow, or rose gold before too long.
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Jaeger LeCoultre have revived the Polaris line. I particularly like the limited edition Memovox model.
There's also an three hander with date and non-date versions, a chronograph, and a world-timer chronograph.
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The Mont Blanc Chrono is splendid. The 48 Vintage is a bit too Vintage for me, Mark XVIII Edition «Tribute to Mark 11» is my Favorit of the Pilot Series at the Moment.
The new Lange Triple Split is an Intense Piece of Watchmaking, a Dress Watch with the Measurements of a Full blown Diver and the most compliacted Clockwork ever.
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@Giles I wish Jaeger had done a reissue based on the Polaris II from the 1970s, though that loses the super compressor case. It is, however, very blue.
@Steffen I agree on the Lange. For those who haven't seen it, Hodinkee have a write-up.
If you're into chronographs, the FP Journe Rattrapante is interesting. The titanium version is my favourite, but they all look a bit over-styled for my tastes.
Given how obsessed everyone is with vintage, I really like that the Hermès Carré H has gone for a simple, modern design. It's one of my favourite pieces from SIHH.
Lastly, there's the H Moser & Cie Endeavour, which has an Urwerk style orbital hours display. (Urwerk are planning a mechanical watch that's regulated by an atomic clock)!
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My Favorit Vintage Watch is already remade by Jaeger, the Deep Sea.
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That thing is the singularly worst doohickey I have ever purchased
You bought that? Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha
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I like the JLC Memovox. What is the intent of the compressor case though? Tracking a second time zone?
It's basically a rotating bezel, like on a diver's watch, only it's mounted inside the case. It's intended for tracking dive times. The original JLC Polaris was designed for diving.
I suspect that mounting it internally protects it, stops it from being knocked out of position, and makes the watch look cool.
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some good watches at SIHH this year. the AP ultra thin perpetual calendar, platinum and titanium RO and the lange are a few of my favs..
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Limited editions seem to go one of two ways: Either they sell out immediately, and are never seen again. Or they hang around in stores for years, despite being part of a small run.
Of course, the dealer will always tell you that there's an enormous demand.
Personally, I like limited editions that aren't what's usually available from a brand. For example:
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The Jaeger Geophysic limited edition had a chronometer rated movement, and an antimagnetic case. I'm really gutted at missing out on this.
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The Chopard 8HF has an 8 Hz movement. Most watches run at 3 to 4 Hz.
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The first Zenith Type 20 Pilot Montre d'Aeronef used a vintage movement from a deck chronometer in a massively oversized case.
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The Patek Philippe 5522A is a Calatrava dressed up as a pilot's watch, and offered in a steel case.
Montblanc are offering their Minerva-based 1858 watches in limited editions of a hundred, but seem to be repeating them when one sells out. For example, they've done several chronographs, and two runs of the Rally Timer, with different colours each time. I think that it's a bit of a marketing thing, but I'll forgive them because they're lovely.
Perhaps the best approach would be if you like the watch, it offers something that the standard model doesn't, and you're OK paying the premium, then go ahead. You probably won't see your money back, but then again you don't with most timepieces!
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Here's a watch that would look great with denim: https://www.grand-seiko.jp/sbgj231/
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Lange was brought back to life by Walter Lange in the nineties, and passed away last year. To commemorate him, they produced a series of watches in precious metals, along with a unique, steel piece, pictured below, which is going to be auctioned off for a truly obscene amount of money.
Of course, the real showstopper is the movement…
The watch has a small seconds display, which runs as a sweep, and the centre seconds jumps.
