Photograph and Camera talk
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Hey I'm not trying to get flamed…......... but could anyone recommend a good camera make / model. I'm an architect and I'm tired of using shitty cameras to document my work. I take allot of pics in the field from start to finish of various projects, so i can have my boss absorb some of the cost since it is necessary for my work. Im thinking something in the $500 to $900 range.
Any recommendations would be appreciated, since i really don't know anything.
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Hey I'm not trying to get flamed…......... but could anyone recommend a good camera make / model. I'm an architect and I'm tired of using shitty cameras to document my work. I take allot of pics in the field from start to finish of various projects, so i can have my boss absorb some of the cost since it is necessary for my work. Im thinking something in the $500 to $900 range.
Any recommendations would be appreciated, since i really don't know anything.
ThanksWell, I wouldn't worry too much about a great body, but certainly invest in the lens. I know that a dedicated lens for architecture is a tilt-shift lens, but you could also get a wide-angle lens. As for a body depending on what you are more comfortable with (nikon or Canon), I would first test out which bodies you would wanna test. Personally I would recommend a Canon body as they have the cheapest tilt shift lens. For a body I would opt out for a rebel series, but I would also check out some nikon bodies as well.
Got my 50 1.2L lens today! It is a bit soft @ 1.2, so I think I may have to get it tweaked by Canon.
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lax I wouldn't assume your 50L needs adjustment
that's just what you're gonna see with super thin depth of field when shot wide opendo some test shots with a yard stick laying on the floor directed away
focus on the 18 and shoot at multiple f stops
you'll get a sense for the DOF at each stop -
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Yeah, I plan on taking it on vacation with me first to really test it. But if in fact a lot of my images are soft, I am going to have to exchange it for a different once, which would suck cause I don't think I wanna let this lens off my camera. But, here is an HDR shot using 3 exposures.. Just as a test.. I must say the sunburst effect (whatever you wanna call it), is pretty damn cool…
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that sunburst happens more as you close down the aperture. if you happen to want it to be less..open up a little. i personally love it but sometimes it's overwhelming depending what you're shooting.
as for your halo effect. is it happening when you shoot anything else? because that may be from a slow shutter speed. you need to shoot something with the camera on tripod with no potential motion) that thing is not a good test subject, and it's hanging therefore has potential motion.
as for being soft at 1.2…most lenses with that large of an aperture aren't super sharp wide open..close down to 1.8 or 2.0 and see if there's a huge difference.
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http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1029&thread=38932139&page=1
Seems that's just the way the 50L draws…...
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Well, I wouldn't worry too much about a great body, but certainly invest in the lens. I know that a dedicated lens for architecture is a tilt-shift lens, but you could also get a wide-angle lens. As for a body depending on what you are more comfortable with (nikon or Canon), I would first test out which bodies you would wanna test. Personally I would recommend a Canon body as they have the cheapest tilt shift lens. For a body I would opt out for a rebel series, but I would also check out some nikon bodies as well.
Got my 50 1.2L lens today! It is a bit soft @ 1.2, so I think I may have to get it tweaked by Canon.
Great thanks allot, my research will begin on Monday. By the way your pics look great, i aspire to have pics like that. Ok ill post my purchase…
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Onairda you can always hire me
www.JoshBustosPhotography.com
but in all seriousness..don't get a tilt shift lens unless you have some real camera skills.
for $500 to $900 you can probably get a cheap body and a decent wide angle lens..pick up a tripod with some bubble levels on it or buy a bubble level that attaches into the hot shoe..square your camera up around chest height for starters. put it on iso 100 or 200, Aperture priority (AV) and let the shutter speed fall wherever. no flash. that's about all the tips i can give you without getting real technical. -
Onairda you can always hire me
www.JoshBustosPhotography.com
damn great page…and i love the way you describe how you edit your photos and all the stuff you...thanks for sharing!
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Yeah, really josh that is some insane work! I am loving the colors of the photos and kind of all the photos!
Finn- loving that sharpness in the picture.. I just realized that is one hell of a sharp picture! Whats bugging me though is the brightness of it though, the right side is kind of drawing my eye away from the face.
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Onairda you can always hire me
www.JoshBustosPhotography.com
but in all seriousness..don't get a tilt shift lens unless you have some real camera skills.
for $500 to $900 you can probably get a cheap body and a decent wide angle lens..pick up a tripod with some bubble levels on it or buy a bubble level that attaches into the hot shoe..square your camera up around chest height for starters. put it on iso 100 or 200, Aperture priority (AV) and let the shutter speed fall wherever. no flash. that's about all the tips i can give you without getting real technical.What do you think? Would this be a good start?
http://www.nikonusa.com/Nikon-Products/Product/Digital-SLR-Cameras/25462/D3000.html -
Yeah, agreed. I shouldn't have recommended a tilt shift lens though haha, my bad on that. I realized after I said that that it was a pro lens. But a wide angle lens should be good. Personally I would invest in a good one though if you know you will be doing this type of photography for sure.