Hemming question

[IronMan]

pretty newbie question: since jeans are not perfectly straight tubular, does hemming affects leg openings too by few fractions of inch along with jeans lenght?

[neph93]

Yes, but it is marginal and dependent on taper. There is a simple formula for working it out on a thread on the Resource Centre board.

[IronMan]

Found it:

https://www.ironheart.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=9239.0

thank you 

[IronMan]

@neph93 sorry to bother you again. I am learning a lot from your posts. I remember you told me i can also ask hemming locally in my city. But do i have to contact a special tailor's shop with some particular tools to handle IH jeans properly or any would work?

[Crit_Obs]

@IronMan:

@neph93 sorry to bother you again. I am learning a lot from your posts. I remember you told me i can also ask hemming locally in my city. But do i have to contact a special tailor's shop with some particular tools to handle IH jeans properly or any would work?

Hemming is the easiest modification in the game but the reason people seek out services of certain workshops is that machines that can do lockstitch the way it is in the original, unaltered hem are not common. Not everyone cares about this but it's a detail many would rather not do without.

[neph93]

@Crit_Obs  you mean chain stitch?

My local seamstress will work on everything up to and including 21oz but I don’t get chain stitch and she considers UHR and XHS too heavy to work on.

Sometimes I want chain stitch, so I’ll send a pair out, othertimes I’ll leave it. I pretty much know what I need now so mostly IHUK does it when I buy.

To get chain stitch like the original hem you need them hemmed on a specific type of Union Special or one of a few similar machines. IHUK have one, R&H in London have one. I’d imagine given Italy’s rich history of clothes making and tailoring you’ll find someone local to you, but I don’t know.

[Crit_Obs]

Yea chainstitch, was thinking of the term in Finnish.

[neph93]

Ah, I see. Lockstitch is a thing in English also. It’s actually often what you get if your jeans are hemmed on a standard machine.

[IronMan]

@neph93:

@Crit_Obs  you mean chain stitch?

My local seamstress will work on everything up to and including 21oz but I don’t get chain stitch and she considers UHR and XHS too heavy to work on.

Sometimes I want chain stitch, so I’ll send a pair out, othertimes I’ll leave it. I pretty much know what I need now so mostly IHUK does it when I buy.

To get chain stitch like the original hem you need them hemmed on a specific type of Union Special or one of a few similar machines. IHUK have one, R&H in London have one. I’d imagine given Italy’s rich history of clothes making and tailoring you’ll find someone local to you, but I don’t know.

I see. Here in my city there are a lot of Bangladesh people doing these kind of services for cheap. I used them in a couple of occasions in the past, they sometimes did a good job sometimes not. I just don't know about their tools.

I think i would feel more comfortable at receiving packages and then return back directly to those specialized sites for IH hemming if necessary. Ordering already hemmed scares me as it would be my first unexperienced order and returns is not possible if something is not good fitting

[neph93]

If you don’t have someone you trust then you should definitely use IHUK.

[IronMan]

@neph93:

If you don’t have someone you trust then you should definitely use IHUK.

order placed! at the end i requested Self Edge to send me them hemmed, from 36.5'' to 33.5'' inseam… yes i'm a gambler