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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    Watches - another OCD problem

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    • GraemeG
      Graeme
      啓蒙家
      Joined:

      @JDelage:

      Yes it's hard but it can be done and it makes a huge difference on pricy watches. I always notice how the screws are well timed on Royal Oaks.

      The Royal Oak cheats! Time and Tide point out that the screwheads on the bezel are actually threaded nuts in hexagonal holes.

      The screws are then inserted and tightened from the rear, where the heads aren't aligned. 🙂

      My suspicion is that the screws aren't aligned on watches because the sizes and tolerances are a lot smaller. Given the cost of a high-end Patek, I'm sure that an owner could justify an extra few hundred or thousand dollars for a watchmaker to put the time in if it was easy.

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • GraemeG
        Graeme
        啓蒙家
        Joined:

        It's SIHH, one of the two big watch fairs, next week, and we're starting to see launches. Monochrome Watches have announced the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic, which is their first model to use their proprietary movement.

        I like the specs on this: It's chronometer (COSC) rated, has a five day power reserve, is antimagnetic to 1500 Gauss, and has service intervals in excess of five years. The price is a pretty reasonable CHF 2450, about $2500 $2790 according to Hodinkee.

        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • DougNgD
          DougNg
          Joined:

          Something about the Arabic numerals along the edge really bugs me…

          I know violence is not the answer, I got it wrong on purpose

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • JDelageJ
            JDelage
            啓蒙家
            Joined:

            Cheating is OK. Still, a small part of me died today…  😢

            My first "expensive" watch was a B&M Capeland Chrono I bought in '98 when I got my first job after business school. I loved the design (different from the current Capeland models), and I still think it was inspired. With this said, once I had it serviced and was told that the lubricant had turned to gunk. I had to have the face and the hands replaced. Not cheap. I sold it immediately afterwards, for good money if I may add.

            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • DougNgD
              DougNg
              Joined:

              You thought they got a hex headed screw into a hex headed hole with magic? 😉

              I know violence is not the answer, I got it wrong on purpose

              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • JDelageJ
                JDelage
                啓蒙家
                Joined:

                I had thought that the sides of the screw heads were not straight. I admit I probably chose not to investigate the question.  😉

                I know some makers of very expensive custom knives who time their screws, but yes, they're round screws.

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • DougNgD
                  DougNg
                  Joined:

                  Rick Hinderer used to do that when he made art knives. His exact words describing it was "it sucks".

                  I know violence is not the answer, I got it wrong on purpose

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • GraemeG
                    Graeme
                    啓蒙家
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                    IWC are celebrating their 150th anniversary this year, and have brought out a range of limited editions to commemorate the event.

                    My favourite has to be the Tribute to Pallweber, particularly the stainless steel with blue dial model on the left. It's a mechanical digital watch, much like the oh-so-sexy Lange Zeitwerk, but about a tenth of the price. Hodinkee and aBlogToWatch got their hands on it late last year.

                    There's also a Big Pilot's watch with a big date that I like. It's a bit smaller than Heritage 48 that I was admiring last year, but I think that it uses the same base movement.

                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • S
                      Steffen
                      Joined:

                      @Graeme I saw the Big Pilot this Morning half sleeping and tought i´d like it but the Center Date kills it for me all the way.

                      The Lange Zeitwerk is as all the Lange Watches are an Intense Piece of Watchmaking but they seem to roll the Dice when it comes to pricing.

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • GraemeG
                        Graeme
                        啓蒙家
                        Joined:

                        @Steffen:

                        @Graeme I saw the Big Pilot this Morning half sleeping and tought i´d like it but the Center Date kills it for me all the way.

                        The limited edition Portuguese loses the centre date.

                        As does the Pilot's Heritage 48.

                        I think that they're both pretty similar to the new, limited edition.

                        I agree about Lange, though the baby Saxonia Thin is a relative bargain. They've just done a new version, with a blue dial that gives me unchristian thoughts. Costs a chunk more than the base model, though.

                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • GraemeG
                          Graeme
                          啓蒙家
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                          Montblanc have announced a new chronograph, with one of those gorgeous Minerva movements in it. It's 40mm, so slightly smaller than the bronze one that we've drooled over in the past. I like the green dial and strap too.

                          They're also bringing out a gloriously impractical pocket watch with a stone dial, Minerva movement, and a compass at the back. I want one.

                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • JDelageJ
                            JDelage
                            啓蒙家
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                            Loving the blue dial on the A. Lange. Also like the IWC digital.

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • ChrisC
                              Chris
                              Raw and Unwashed
                              Joined:

                              Damn, that Lange looks fantastic.  Love those special edition IWCs, too.  I've always liked the jumbo date.

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • GilesG
                                Giles
                                IHUK Crew
                                Joined:

                                What's with the hole at 2?

                                "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • JDelageJ
                                  JDelage
                                  啓蒙家
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                                  I thi nk it's just an artifact, a shadow. Check this page of the same model in gold and look at the various pics - no hole.

                                  https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-saxonia-thin

                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • GilesG
                                    Giles
                                    IHUK Crew
                                    Joined:

                                    There is here:

                                    https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1452893108034-qqf6j6xd1p7dgqfr-12d134e01783e2e5d1b08c6f1678d6e1/2.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fit=crop&ch=Width%2CDPR%2CSave-Data&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&s=c48db6a882ef53e9628c89b20474c575

                                    "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • JDelageJ
                                      JDelage
                                      啓蒙家
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                                      Yes, but if you look at the top pic on the page, which shows the watch seen from its side, it's clear there isn't. I think it's just a bad series of pics.

                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • GilesG
                                        Giles
                                        IHUK Crew
                                        Joined:

                                        A little embarrassing…....

                                        "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • GraemeG
                                          Graeme
                                          啓蒙家
                                          Joined:

                                          @Giles:

                                          What's with the hole at 2?

                                          It's Lange's new integrated bottle opener. 😃

                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • ChrisC
                                            Chris
                                            Raw and Unwashed
                                            Joined:

                                            They're transitioning into the new "super premium luxury tool watch" category.

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