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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    Watches - another OCD problem

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    • GilesG
      Giles
      IHUK Crew
      Joined:

      @Matty123:

      @Giles:

      I've seen this before, too intimidating for me….. 🙂

      Your 21 zuan is great. That’s in my list for my next watch purchase.

      It was/is not mine….I stole it for a few minutes from one of our Chinese customers.....I would like one though.  But I will likely only buy one if I can go to the factory and be a bzillion percent sure it's the real deal....

      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • GraemeG
        Graeme
        啓蒙家
        Joined:

        @Giles:

        I've seen this before, too intimidating for me….. 🙂

        Would posting it in the other watch thread be a banning offence? 😃 😃 😃

        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • GraemeG
          Graeme
          啓蒙家
          Joined:

          I posed a couple of skull watches in the other watch thread, and thought that I'd put these up as the Ying to their Yang.

          They're designed by a Scottish artist, Fiona Kruger, and made in limited editions.

          This is the Celebration Skull.

          And this is the Petit Skull.

          There's also the oh-so-cool Vanitas Wall Clock, which opens its mouth as the power reserve runs down!

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • louisboscoL
            louisbosco
            啓蒙家
            Joined:

            and back to regular program…  🙂 🙂 🙂

            "Loyalty is a two way street. If i'm asking for it from you, then you're getting it from me."

            • Harvey Specter
            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • JDelageJ
              JDelage
              啓蒙家
              Joined:

              That blue skull is very cool.

              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • GraemeG
                Graeme
                啓蒙家
                Joined:

                @JDelage is after a bronze watch, and Oris have just announced the Carl Brashear Chronograph.

                It's a limited edition of 2000, and Hodinkee are reporting that it'll cost $4,950.

                The downside that I can see is that the Tudor Black Bay Chronograph is the same price, has a similar look, and has a modified version of Breitling's chronograph movement. It's steel, not bronze, though I wouldn't be surprised if a version in that metal comes along. Hodinkee have a review, if you want more information.

                (I'm hoping they drop that movement into the Heritage Chrono soon.)

                Lastly there's the (deep breath) Zenith Heritage Pilot Extra Special Chronograph, which has the El Primero 5 Hz movement.

                It's around $7K, which is a bit more than the Oris and Tudor, but cheaper than the other El Primero watches in Zenith's collection. There's a review on aBlogToWatch.

                Zenith also offer the Pilot Type 20 Extra Special, which is a non-chronograph piece, but I think that it's a similar price to the chronograph.

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                • JDelageJ
                  JDelage
                  啓蒙家
                  Joined:

                  I have my bronze watch - I bought a 2nd hand Evant Tropic Diver. (The Oris is nice but I like their non chrono bronze Carl Brashear better.)

                  I'm now toying with the idea of (1) a 116610LV sub' (which would be a stretch for me but it's been a grail for 20+ years) and (2) a dedicated sub-$1,500 diver (which I should take to the "other" thread.)

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                  • GraemeG
                    Graeme
                    啓蒙家
                    Joined:

                    I'd be inclined to save for the Submariner, since it's been a long-term goal. The chances are you'll buy a cheaper diver, then get the Rolex down the line. 🙂

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                    • GraemeG
                      Graeme
                      啓蒙家
                      Joined:

                      Can't decide between a Royal Oak, Rolex GMT, IWC, Hublot, Panerai, Patek Nautilus, or Girard-Perregaux? H. Moser have the watch for you!

                      It's a one-off that's up to be auctioned off after SIHH. Hodinkee have the details.

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • JDelageJ
                        JDelage
                        啓蒙家
                        Joined:

                        I note that the screws are not timed. Big no-no.  😞

                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • GraemeG
                          Graeme
                          啓蒙家
                          Joined:

                          @JDelage:

                          I note that the screws are not timed. Big no-no.  😞
                          [/quote]

                          Actually getting screws to line up is really, really difficult. There's a piece at Salon QP that explains it, but basically it'd be a really difficult engineering task to achieve.

                          Hodinkee have a piece introducing the Ressence Type 2 e-Crown Concept today. The big news here is that the watch's time can be set from an app.

                          This is only a concept, but a production version is coming. Let's hope that they don't only support the app on the iPhone when it arrives.

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                          • DougNgD
                            DougNg
                            Joined:

                            Old gunsmith's trick to getting screws to line up the way you want them to: use a rubber o-ring under the screw.

                            One way or another, all you have to do is tighten no more than 179 degrees, and it keeps the screw from loosening

                            😉

                            I know violence is not the answer, I got it wrong on purpose

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • JDelageJ
                              JDelage
                              啓蒙家
                              Joined:

                              Yes it's hard but it can be done and it makes a huge difference on pricy watches. I always notice how the screws are well timed on Royal Oaks.

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • GraemeG
                                Graeme
                                啓蒙家
                                Joined:

                                @JDelage:

                                Yes it's hard but it can be done and it makes a huge difference on pricy watches. I always notice how the screws are well timed on Royal Oaks.

                                The Royal Oak cheats! Time and Tide point out that the screwheads on the bezel are actually threaded nuts in hexagonal holes.

                                The screws are then inserted and tightened from the rear, where the heads aren't aligned. 🙂

                                My suspicion is that the screws aren't aligned on watches because the sizes and tolerances are a lot smaller. Given the cost of a high-end Patek, I'm sure that an owner could justify an extra few hundred or thousand dollars for a watchmaker to put the time in if it was easy.

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                                • GraemeG
                                  Graeme
                                  啓蒙家
                                  Joined:

                                  It's SIHH, one of the two big watch fairs, next week, and we're starting to see launches. Monochrome Watches have announced the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic, which is their first model to use their proprietary movement.

                                  I like the specs on this: It's chronometer (COSC) rated, has a five day power reserve, is antimagnetic to 1500 Gauss, and has service intervals in excess of five years. The price is a pretty reasonable CHF 2450, about $2500 $2790 according to Hodinkee.

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                                  • DougNgD
                                    DougNg
                                    Joined:

                                    Something about the Arabic numerals along the edge really bugs me…

                                    I know violence is not the answer, I got it wrong on purpose

                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • JDelageJ
                                      JDelage
                                      啓蒙家
                                      Joined:

                                      Cheating is OK. Still, a small part of me died today…  😢

                                      My first "expensive" watch was a B&M Capeland Chrono I bought in '98 when I got my first job after business school. I loved the design (different from the current Capeland models), and I still think it was inspired. With this said, once I had it serviced and was told that the lubricant had turned to gunk. I had to have the face and the hands replaced. Not cheap. I sold it immediately afterwards, for good money if I may add.

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                                      • DougNgD
                                        DougNg
                                        Joined:

                                        You thought they got a hex headed screw into a hex headed hole with magic? 😉

                                        I know violence is not the answer, I got it wrong on purpose

                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • JDelageJ
                                          JDelage
                                          啓蒙家
                                          Joined:

                                          I had thought that the sides of the screw heads were not straight. I admit I probably chose not to investigate the question.  😉

                                          I know some makers of very expensive custom knives who time their screws, but yes, they're round screws.

                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • DougNgD
                                            DougNg
                                            Joined:

                                            Rick Hinderer used to do that when he made art knives. His exact words describing it was "it sucks".

                                            I know violence is not the answer, I got it wrong on purpose

                                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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