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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    IHxB01xRAW Beatle Buster 18oz Raw Japanese Selvage Denim Indigo

    Bottoms
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    • M
      MikeC
      Banned
      Joined:

      Raw denim for life. Sanforizing flattens out the fabric.  It's cool, if you don't like to fuck with shrinking.

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • Max PowerM
        Max Power
        Raw and Unwashed
        Joined:

        ^my thoughts…it might be that some guys are just afraid of sizing when it comes to unsaforized denim. The 18 oz denim at least is nicer than the 21 oz in my opinion, so I don't think it's the fabric that made them sell slowly. But that's all guessing.

        @elclintor:

        > I don't care what people say.. The Max Power way is the right way…

        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • GilesG
          Giles
          IHUK Crew
          Joined:

          I am 100% sure that is the reason Max…

          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • C
            colour ghost
            Joined:

            I also love the 18oz denim, but if your taller then 5,9 and like stacks, the BB raws are not for you. Maybe if the inseam was 2 inches longer they would sell like the 666s ?

            I'm 6,5, and i would be living on the street now if all IH jeans came with a 37 inch inseam.

            Enjoy you denim nerds  😉

            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • GilesG
              Giles
              IHUK Crew
              Joined:

              Adding 2 inches on the inseam on a future run is easier than me typing this post….

              "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • C
                colour ghost
                Joined:

                That would be really nice Giles. I'm in for a pair then. Could also use an extra inch on the arm length on some of the heavy flannels…........Ohh you can't hem these, damn.

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • ?
                  Guest
                  Joined:

                  Well, I'll keep my fingers crossed something potentially pops up in the future. (+1 for the extra length.)

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • xtcclassicX
                    xtcclassic
                    啓蒙家
                    Joined:

                    @colour:

                    I also love the 18oz denim, but if your taller then 5,9 and like stacks, the BB raws are not for you. Maybe if the inseam was 2 inches longer they would sell like the 666s?

                    Oh, shit. I think we've identified the problem. I just looked at the sizing chart, and assuming a 2" shrink in the inseam, these would be .5" shorter than I normally need, and I'm only 5' 11" tall. That's probably what's slowing down the orders.

                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • C
                      CLJ
                      Raw and Unwashed
                      Joined:

                      I think potential buyers are afraid of not being able to fit post soak measurements. You cant stretch jeans back out if you cant get in them. I would love to try 18oz. Would it be possible to sanforize this fabric? Forgive me lack of knowledge here.

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • scroogenS
                        scroogen
                        Joined:

                        You can sanforize anything but I think this denim would lose a lot of appeal.  I for one like the fact that this is real raw untreated denim off the loom.  If you can't wrap your head around 'shrinks one in waist and two in length' stick with sanforized pairs…shrinkage in other measurements is minimal. I do agree that these are too short though.  I have the vulcan sample pair (same 18oz denim) and I believe they came in at 34'' pre soak, about the same as these B01Raw.  They are borderline too short for me post soak at around 32.5'' but still fit(I'm 5'11 and actually they fit pretty perfect just no stacks to speak of)... I don't need stacks on all my jeans, and I don't cuff jeans either but I would appreciate an extra 2-3'' for sure.  Even if I just got it hemmed off

                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • GilesG
                          Giles
                          IHUK Crew
                          Joined:

                          I now remember the issue with this batch, the factory made them to the dimensions of the 21oz version,  they were made smaller all round and thus shorter than they should have been.  they offered to remake them, but on the basis that they were just a little smaller than they should be, I decided to keep them as is…

                          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • Max PowerM
                            Max Power
                            Raw and Unwashed
                            Joined:

                            @CLJ:

                            I think potential buyers are afraid of not being able to fit post soak measurements. You cant stretch jeans back out if you cant get in them. I would love to try 18oz. Would it be possible to sanforize this fabric? Forgive me lack of knowledge here.

                            Sorry, but sizing raw denim is no rocket science - if you buy them just a tad above your postwash waist, they will fit perfectly and be more forgiving in terms of stretch than sanforized models. At least that's my experience. Plus, the Shrink to fit part offers a nice nostalgic and exciting experience.
                            A possible solution could be to do one wash versions of each size to
                            a) sell them to those afraid of sizing
                            b) give true postwash measurements.
                            Regarding the inseams, I concur with the statements above.

                            @elclintor:

                            > I don't care what people say.. The Max Power way is the right way…

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • Mild7M
                              Mild7
                              Joined:

                              ^ this is true. plus I always seek the advice of the retailer before i buy jeans sanforised or not. they do this shit for a living..

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • C
                                colour ghost
                                Joined:

                                @scroogen:

                                You can sanforize anything but I think this denim would lose a lot of appeal.  I for one like the fact that this is real raw untreated denim off the loom.  If you can't wrap your head around 'shrinks one in waist and two in length' stick with sanforized pairs…shrinkage in other measurements is minimal. I do agree that these are too short though.  I have the vulcan sample pair (same 18oz denim) and I believe they came in at 34'' pre soak, about the same as these B01Raw.  They are borderline too short for me post soak at around 32.5'' but still fit(I'm 5'11 and actually they fit pretty perfect just no stacks to speak of)... I don't need stacks on all my jeans, and I don't cuff jeans either but I would appreciate an extra 2-3'' for sure.  Even if I just got it hemmed off

                                The Vulcans are great jeans, but again the short inseam stopped me from buying them. In my opinion Raw jeans with a 2 inch inseam shrinkage, should be at least 37, but 38-39 inches would be perfect.
                                My 666s i was able to stretch the inseam quite a lot, because of the loose weave.

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • riffblaster generalR
                                  riffblaster general
                                  Raw and Unwashed
                                  Joined:

                                  @Giles:

                                  I now remember the issue with this batch, the factory made them to the dimensions of the 21oz version,  they were made smaller all round and thus shorter than they should have been.  they offered to remake them, but on the basis that they were just a little smaller than they should be, I decided to keep them as is…

                                  This may be why I love my pair.  When I tried the 21oz in the same size they just fit me wrong

                                  PUT DOWN THAT STARBUCKS, PICK UP THAT GNARBUCKS!!

                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • M
                                    MikeC
                                    Banned
                                    Joined:

                                    My only gripe regarding a super long inseam like 38-39 inches, you end up losing any amount of taper, when hemming, if your shorter….

                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • Max PowerM
                                      Max Power
                                      Raw and Unwashed
                                      Joined:

                                      but if they just continue 4 more inches from the hem which is now at 35"? I don't see that problem.

                                      @elclintor:

                                      > I don't care what people say.. The Max Power way is the right way…

                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • C
                                        colour ghost
                                        Joined:

                                        @MikeC:

                                        My only gripe regarding a super long inseam like 38-39 inches, you end up losing any amount of taper, when hemming, if your shorter….

                                        I agree Mike.

                                        I'm at work so i did a little calculation…...........with a calculator.
                                        The approximately average taper from knee down is 0,7 inches (taken from 4 slim/loose IH models), so the difference will be about 0,1 inch, if you add another 3 inches to the inseam.
                                        This is of course only if the narrowing in, is in a straight line from the knee and down.
                                        I'll keep it as a secret how i did this complicated magic 😉

                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • GilesG
                                          Giles
                                          IHUK Crew
                                          Joined:

                                          Most of our jeans taper 0.5 from knee to cuff - it is Haraki's view of the perfect taper. So if we make a jean at 38 inseam and we chop off 4 inches to make a 34 we lose 0.095" in the taper.  That is significantly less than the margin of japanese Seamstress Error.

                                          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • BeatleB
                                            Beatle
                                            Joined:

                                            We can do anything

                                            http://bybeatle.com

                                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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