Lighter-weight denim versus heavy-weight discussion

[Beatle]

Okay - here´s the deal. I started out wearing 11oz denim - a Wrangler. Evolved to 13-14 , than 17 - and now I´m in love with 19oz. A nicely woven 14 oz denim - if washed ever once in a while - will last for a long time - and I still think that´s a great weight for denim. A 17oz denim can feel a lot sturdier and heavier than a 19oz denim - the feel of the denim actually depends on the length of the cotton fiber.

I think it´s great to have a pair of nicely worn in Flatheads that almost feel like sweatpants - and a super tough pair that just has that indestructible feel to it.

Regarding evolution - yes, it is easier to fade "light" weight denim since creases whiskers and combs tend to develop faster and more permanent.

But in the same token - while fading a pair of heavy weight denim might be a bit more of a challenge - it´s also more rewarding*

[Beatle]

Seul - ur SEXIH07 is 19oz

[Seul]

Thought it was 21 oz post soak?..

[hectic]

Its often about the cut for me, if I find a keeper (and bear in mind I fall outside of the norm in terms of body size) then I'm gonna multiple buy that fucker.

That said IH trumps most others in terms of quality.

[Beatle]

nope..19oz all the way…new denim developed for se..I can only think of the 634-sr special edition which is 21 pre - and 23 post soak..

[Seul]

If thàt's IHs take on 19 oz, then I don't wanna know how their 23 oz'es feel. Fuck me. My 19 oz Sams are blown right out of the water by those. Those fibres most be as long as my… Well, I won't brag... 

[Guest]

Excellent post from deadendpro. Thanks.

I only have the heavy IH jeans (634SR and 9634Z) and other 10.5-12oz jeans. So the step down is considerable. When I put the other jeans on it almost feels like wearing a normal cloth pant. But only for a little while. After that it feels like wearing jeans again.

To me it is clear that the thicker material is much nicer but if the jeans look good and fit well I can very easily do with a lighter weight. I am tempted to try and intermediate weight, say 14-17, to see how I like that. I'm not sure but my estimate is that the Girbaud Pedal Pushers of yore I was wearing were around 14. Those were awesome.

Till

[Guest]

Simon, dead – great reads ! Thank you for sharing. But still, I'm hearing a general vibe...once you try Iron Heart (heavy weight) on, you seem ruined for life. I've heard both Beats and Seul say that their SEXIH07BKs (though a flimsy 19-oz) are the best jeans they've ever owned in their lives. And we've heard Seul remark that his 19-oz Sams feel weak in comparison to his IH. This is very high praise for Iron Heart, considering how many types and brands of jeans have grazed the butts of Seul and Beatle ! Seul, if you like heavy shit -- you're missing out by not getting a pair of SuperBlacks man. You will simply love them ! Get the 9301 slims from SESF or the straight cuts. They are heavy as a motherfucker and yet so fitted and non-bulky looking. SuperBlacks are simply magical, IMHO.

[Beatle]

lol…long read

[Seul]

Shubz: I will buy another pair of Iron Heart this year. I want a slim fitting indigo pair, preferably 21 or 23 oz. Overdyed would be completely ballin. So I hope one of the 3 new models will be a heavy, slim fitting indigo pair. I'll pick it up during the summer then (still have that bet going til July 01). I also hope it doesn't have the standard IH backpocket stitching as I thoroughly dislike that but hell I can always have it removed.

[Guest]

Seul, whatever you want brotha ! Hope a slim indigo pair is in the upcoming lineup, then.

[DougNg]

@Beatle:

nope..19oz all the way…new denim developed for se..I can only think of the 634-sr special edition which is 21 pre - and 23 post soak..

They're 19oz/sq yard pre soak, and these shrink. Therefore, they would weigh more than 19oz/sq yard post soak

Checked with Kiya. He said they're approximately 21oz post soak

[deadendpro]

^ yeah, I always understood denim weight to refer to square yard after laundering. And as the weave tightens when an unsanforized jean is soaked, that is where the unsanforized gains oz's.

[Seul]

There we go. 21 oz 

[Beatle]

guys - if this were the case I´m sure Kiya would point that out in the description. I am pretty sure they are 19oz pre and post soak..

Quote se website

Unsanforized 19oz Indigo Selvedge Denim

[Beatle]

But they are overdyed - so already soaked…confused..well, maybe one day Kiya drops in and sheds some light...

[Beatle]

Question asked*

[Beatle]

301s, 21oz, right
I thought this was about the SEXIH07 BK…anyways - 19 or 21 post soak - beautiful denim.

[Seul]

That's all there is to it indeed, Beats.

[Beatle]

not really , Seul…sanforization changes the weight of the denim as well...(controlled shrinkage) so the 301s which uses 21oz raw denim - should weigh 23 when it hits the shelves. I am seriously confused...