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Tailoring

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  • H
    hectic
    Joined: 24 Sept 2009

    There's this tailor I use occasionally (this one: http://www.greshamblake.com/)

    I was down their store recently and one of the tailors was wearing a denim suit, i.e.: a tailored business style thing, but in a non-selvedge denim (approx 12 oz).

    I thought it looked great, his had approx 3 years daily(ish) wear and it had some nice wabi.

    What does anyone think of this? Abomination from hell, or innovative crossover?

    Peace
    H

    last edited by 22 Feb 2010, 14:49 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
    • B
      Beatle
      Joined: 8 Dec 2009

      Kiya wore a FH denim tux/suit when he got married. Crazy stuff - but for the occasion it was perfect and special. But wearing a denim suit to work sounds a little over the top…

      We can do anything

      http://bybeatle.com

      last edited by 22 Feb 2010, 14:54 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • H
        hectic
        Joined: 24 Sept 2009

        Well, I got them to measure me up when I was in store and I am pondering it…:)

        last edited by 22 Feb 2010, 14:55 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • H
          hectic
          Joined: 24 Sept 2009

          Urban dandy ahoy…

          last edited by 22 Feb 2010, 14:56 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • ?
            Guest
            Joined:

            A British tailor can get away with almost anything in terms of eccentricity. It would be interesting to see a really dark natural indigo denim in a classic English suit cut. I dislike jeans plus jeans jacket but a real suit might just be funky. I'd have to see it. Any photos possible?

            Till

            last edited by 22 Feb 2010, 18:20 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • G
              Giles
              IHUK Crew
              Joined: 22 Sept 2009

              Well, we all know that Kiya is a real shrinking Violet, so I hope that he does not mind me popping this pic up of him in his:

              "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

              last edited by 22 Feb 2010, 18:39 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • H
                hectic
                Joined: 24 Sept 2009

                Great suit on Kiya (nice looking shoes too), AFAICR the Gresham Blake version was not too disimiliar, except the denim was not that remarkable (I asked and there was a deficit of knowledge).

                Till, I cant find anything online that shows pics. Next time I am there I will try and grab a pic.

                last edited by 22 Feb 2010, 18:45 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • ?
                  Guest
                  Joined:

                  Hm, that doesn't look half bad. Better than I thought.  It must be hard to do the shoulders well in denim because his right shoulder is really off. I love the shoes but find the contrasting soles don't go with the suit look. I'd wear those with a pair of blue jeans. What shoes are those? Any idea?

                  Hectic, no hurry. If you find something, good. If not, no worries.

                  Thanks for the pic, Giles!

                  last edited by 22 Feb 2010, 18:46 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • G
                    Giles
                    IHUK Crew
                    Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                    The denim on Kiyas suit was TFH3xxx series

                    "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                    last edited by 22 Feb 2010, 18:47 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • G
                      Giles
                      IHUK Crew
                      Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                      The shoes are Flat Head Cordovan Clipper.

                      Another pic:

                      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                      last edited by 22 Feb 2010, 18:51 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • B
                        Beatle
                        Joined: 8 Dec 2009

                        Probably he wildest wedding suit ever. Great that you found the pics, Giles

                        We can do anything

                        http://bybeatle.com

                        last edited by 22 Feb 2010, 18:53 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • ?
                          Guest
                          Joined:

                          Wow, that is some awesome detail on the collar. Really nice. Too bad the shoulder is off. I hope it's just in the picture because otherwise that is a really nice suit. Thanks for the info on the shoes. Are those still available? If so, how much?

                          Till

                          Found this blog by accident when googling the shoes:
                          http://lehomeroom.blogspot.com/2007_09_01_archive.html

                          Really strange fold in the back of the suit, too. I can't imagine how a suit good be so well tailored in some regards and so badly tailored in other regards. For a traditional guy like me Argyle socks on the wedding day are heresy but I guess that's what the outfit was about, so it fits.

                          last edited by 22 Feb 2010, 18:55 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • ?
                            Guest
                            Joined:

                            Jeans are outlawed where I work…sent home and forced to take days holiday. I did rebel for a month but the heat was turned on...now if I had Kiya's suit‚ that would be a curve ball for my bosses.  BRING IT ON !

                            last edited by 22 Feb 2010, 21:37 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • G
                              Giles
                              IHUK Crew
                              Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                              There's a new shop in London called Archer Adams (http://www.archeradams.com/) He is carrying a tiny subset oh IH gear, when I popped in to see him recently, he had a denim suit which he showed me.  It was no-name non selvedge denim, but the cut was good.  Give Archer a call, see what he can do

                              "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                              last edited by 22 Feb 2010, 21:41 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • ?
                                Guest
                                Joined:

                                In London and not buying me a beer….Judas !

                                last edited by 22 Feb 2010, 21:44 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • L
                                  LandoCal126 0
                                  Banned
                                  Joined: 2 Oct 2009

                                  Giles - Thanks for sharing that! Kiya - Looks incredible! Till - How about you craft your own denim suit since this one is not up to par? Would love to see some of your handy work!

                                  last edited by 22 Feb 2010, 22:33 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • G
                                    Giles
                                    IHUK Crew
                                    Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                                    Ouch, you are so right - sorry.  Will not happen again.. G

                                    "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                    last edited by 23 Feb 2010, 07:50 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • ?
                                      Guest
                                      Joined:

                                      @LandoCal126:

                                      Giles - Thanks for sharing that! Kiya - Looks incredible! Till - How about you craft your own denim suit since this one is not up to par? Would love to see some of your handy work!

                                      I will have to dig deep into my photo trunk to get some photos of stuff I've tailored. I vividly remember the dress I made while in fashion design school for my then GF. Red Valentino Haute Couture silk crepe. A bitch to work (the material that is LOL). Had to blind stitch meters of it by hand. What was frustrating was that between the time I took the measures and made the test dress and the time I had the real dress done, she got her tonsils taken out. She lost like 5kg, which on a 48kg girl is a lot. So the dress fit too loosely and I got points subtracted. I also admit to not being the best seamstress on the planet but I can tell if two shoulders of a suit are not the same. It's pretty obvious. And it's really strange because as nicely as the rest of the suit is done, I would think whoever made it, knows what he is doing and takes pride in his work. So wouldn't he correct an off shoulder? The only thing I can think of is that it happened afterwards. The shoulder and neck are the most difficult part to get right anyway. When you carry a bag with a shoulder strap just once, it can totally screw the shoulder of a jacket almost irreparably. That's because mostly the shoulder tailoring and the shoulder pad are custom fit for one another. So if you can't get the exact same pad, it is very difficult to get it right again. Of course, you can change both pads but then you usually change the fit of the suit.

                                      My tip is that when you do a bespoke suit and you don't know whether you will live there forever (i.e. use the same tailor) or how long the tailor is going to be around, get a second pair of shoulder pads as back-up. If ever something goes wrong you can replace with the original part.

                                      Till

                                      last edited by 23 Feb 2010, 10:00 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • H
                                        hectic
                                        Joined: 24 Sept 2009

                                        @tfar:

                                        Wow, that is some awesome detail on the collar. Really nice. Too bad the shoulder is off. I hope it's just in the picture because otherwise that is a really nice suit. Thanks for the info on the shoes. Are those still available? If so, how much?

                                        Till

                                        Found this blog by accident when googling the shoes:
                                        http://lehomeroom.blogspot.com/2007_09_01_archive.html

                                        Really strange fold in the back of the suit, too. I can't imagine how a suit good be so well tailored in some regards and so badly tailored in other regards. For a traditional guy like me Argyle socks on the wedding day are heresy but I guess that's what the outfit was about, so it fits.

                                        Till, I reckon that the detail on the back of this suit is either a pin fold for the photo shoot, or perhaps a design riff based on a jeans cinch back.

                                        last edited by 23 Feb 2010, 10:25 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • ?
                                          Guest
                                          Joined:

                                          I had thought of the cinch back, too. Still, between a good creative idea and the way the end result looks there is a difference that must be honestly appreciated. So I hope it's just something like you said with a pin for the photo shoot.

                                          Don't wanna dwell on it, so it doesn't come off as me criticizing, but obviously we are all concerned with details and high quality or we wouldn't be here and when I see something that is very nicely done in some regards and looks very bad in others, it just raises questions.

                                          Till

                                          last edited by 23 Feb 2010, 12:16 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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