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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    Does anyone else not *get* chainstitch runoff on shirts?

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    • BeatleB
      Beatle
      Joined:

      not me - I totally get them. It´s like wearing a gold medal

      We can do anything

      http://bybeatle.com

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
      • ?
        Guest
        Joined:

        Is that chainstitching like on the hem of the jeans or is it a flatlock machine seam? The flatlock is normally only used on inside seams where a hidden seam would be too thick or too costly or where you don't want to get a visible seamline on the outside as you would with a hidden (doubled) seam.

        I think it's a coquetterie to have the flatlock hem on an otherwise immaculately detailed and sewn shirt like the Melton. I also think it goes too far and would prefer a real hem.

        Till

        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • DougNgD
          DougNg
          Joined:

          I have no idea what Till just said, but I think the chain stitch run offs look like bike handle tassels for your ass

          I know violence is not the answer, I got it wrong on purpose

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
          • ?
            Guest
            Joined:

            What, I am saying is that I am not sure whether what Daveo is referring to is actually a chainstitch. If it is what I can see on the pictures of the Melton, it is not a chainstitch but a flatlock. The chainstitch is what we got on the hem of our IH jeans. The flatlock is what we have on the inside leg seam of the jeans. The flatlock machine cuts the cloth and lays a "coil" of thread around the edge thereby preventing fraying at the edge. Whoever invented it was one fine mechanical engineer. The flatlock machine typically leaves a "run out", just like those threads that you can see hanging off the shirts. This is usually cut off. In and of itself there is really nothing prestigious in the use of a flatlock seam and especially not in failing to cut off the runs. Normally, the higher the tailoring standard the rarer the use of the flatlock (or at least visible flatlock seams) will be. This is why I call it coquetterie. Of course, flatlock seams can also be used decoratively, for example on sweatshirts. They also make for a flatter seam, hence the name.

            So there are some instances where I get this kind of finish and others where I don't see the point. On a high quality sweatshirt, having some visible and nicely executed flatlocks in a contrasting thread color can be beautiful. But on a an otherwise very nicely tailored shirt they are not so appropriate in my eyes.

            Till

            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • L
              LandoCal126 0
              Banned
              Joined:

              @Beatle:

              not me - I totally get them.

              Agreed. I just wear them until they fall of on they're own. It is just part of the design aesthetic and personal preference to keep it or cut it. Funny actually, I went to help my mom out with something last week and was wearing my IHSH-13 and she walked by with scissors. Out of the corner of my eye I saw her going for my shirt, before I flipped out…. We had a good laugh about it.

              @tfar:

              What, I am saying is that I am not sure whether what Daveo is referring to is actually a chainstitch. If it is what I can see on the pictures of the Melton, it is not a chainstitch but a flatlock. The chainstitch is what we got on the hem of our IH jeans. The flatlock is what we have on the inside leg seam of the jeans. The flatlock machine cuts the cloth and lays a "coil" of thread around the edge thereby preventing fraying at the edge. Whoever invented it was one fine mechanical engineer. The flatlock machine typically leaves a "run out", just like those threads that you can see hanging off the shirts. This is usually cut off. In and of itself there is really nothing prestigious in the use of a flatlock seam and especially not in failing to cut off the runs. Normally, the higher the tailoring standard the rarer the use of the flatlock (or at least visible flatlock seams) will be. This is why I call it coquetterie. Of course, flatlock seams can also be used decoratively, for example on sweatshirts. They also make for a flatter seam, hence the name.

              So there are some instances where I get this kind of finish and others where I don't see the point. On a high quality sweatshirt, having some visible and nicely executed flatlocks in a contrasting thread color can be beautiful. But on a an otherwise very nicely tailored shirt they are not so appropriate in my eyes.

              Till

              The IHW-01 (Melton) is not what he is talking about. Check out the bottom of the side seems of this shit. I believe this is what he is referring to: http://www.ironheart.co.uk/html/IHSH-13.html

              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • D
                daveo
                Raw and Unwashed
                Joined:

                That's exactly what I'm talking about, Lando.

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • arrowA
                  arrow
                  Joined:

                  I can't live without the chainstitch runoff  🙂
                  In fact, the shirt I bought today from Al's Attire has a beautifully braided chainstitch runoff.

                  [Image Missing]

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • D
                    daveo
                    Raw and Unwashed
                    Joined:

                    Arrow, more pics of said shirt, please!  That looks a lot more intentional than most of the runoff I've seen.

                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • L
                      LandoCal126 0
                      Banned
                      Joined:

                      @arrow:

                      I can't live without the chainstitch runoff  🙂
                      In fact, the shirt I bought today from Al's Attire has a beautifully braided chainstitch runoff.

                      Now that's some Chainstitch Runoff Porn if I ever saw it! I was looking at those flicks today and hoping you would post them up on this thread. Good shit!

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • ?
                        Guest
                        Joined:

                        Thanks for clarifying, Lando. That's definitely not flatlock. Looks so so to me. Better in the shirt pic Arrow posted. What shirt is that? It's a little bit akin to leaving the last button hole on the sleeve open in an MTM or bespoke suit, except that those do represent a real additional tailoring effort. So from a snob perspective, I'd say cut'em off. From a purely esthetic perspective I almost kinda like it.

                        Till

                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • GilesG
                          Giles
                          IHUK Crew
                          Joined:

                          That, I believe, is faux chain stitch run off.  Al does not chain stitch his side seanm, so he adds some braid to look like chain stitch (hand braided of course, but stiil faux)…G

                          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • L
                            LandoCal126 0
                            Banned
                            Joined:

                            Ahhhhhh. Faux Chainstitch Runoff?!? FAIL! Jk Arrow, Al does great stuff and that is no exception. Definitely a bit more costumy than IH. Looks like tsitsit. That's what my brother told me once, and I kinda agree. HA!

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • BeatleB
                              Beatle
                              Joined:

                              this might help see the difference…sc shirt

                              We can do anything

                              http://bybeatle.com

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • arrowA
                                arrow
                                Joined:

                                Faux Chain stitch?! Excuse me for a sec… I'm gonna cry now  😢
                                A closer look and you guys are right.  Good to know...

                                Here's the shirt (doesn't it look familiar?)

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • L
                                  LandoCal126 0
                                  Banned
                                  Joined:

                                  @arrow:

                                  Faux Chain stitch?! Excuse me for a sec… I'm gonna cry now  😢

                                  At least it is Hand Stitched!

                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • deadendproD
                                    deadendpro
                                    啓蒙家
                                    Joined:

                                    @simon626:

                                    **the more i read the more i learn, the more i realize i do not know.

                                    The quest for knowledge is truly never-ending.**

                                    Now, do shirts of such awesome quality usually have to come with a price of say…..70 dollars and upwards? Are there places to buy said shirts for less? 😕

                                    better start reading sufu mayne. i've only actually read through a few threads and it still feels like i dont know enough to hang. lol

                                    Currently Wearing:
                                    SExSx3s 27-01
                                    15.4oz 3sixteen Type 3
                                    25oz Samurai Type 1

                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • deadendproD
                                      deadendpro
                                      啓蒙家
                                      Joined:

                                      i am a massive lurker on sufu. i have like 1.5:1 hours read:posts there. all i do is try to get info into that which interests me at the moment. like currently i am trying to find out about TSL (the steam locomotive) but there isnt very much on there. alas, i dont stop looking. lol. i'm also often posting on mynudies.com, they are nicer there and wont flame a noob just cause they are new to the forum. i promise we're nice. lol

                                      Currently Wearing:
                                      SExSx3s 27-01
                                      15.4oz 3sixteen Type 3
                                      25oz Samurai Type 1

                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • ?
                                        Guest
                                        Joined:

                                        @deadendpro:

                                        i am a massive lurker on sufu.

                                        Me too deadendpro. I'm a bit ashamed about it. I could be doing more productive things.

                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • deadendproD
                                          deadendpro
                                          啓蒙家
                                          Joined:

                                          i'm known enough on the mynudies forum to be able to post casually in the threads and topics that i frequent, but i know how sufu works, so i'm learning learning learning so that i can offer good answers to questions that others will not want to take the time to or just skip, that and i dont want to say something that gets me negged. and with only 10 rep power, a high person negging me will be fatal  😞 so i lurk, learn and offer help when i can  🙂 and post on the Denime x Take 5 contest page. hahaha

                                          Currently Wearing:
                                          SExSx3s 27-01
                                          15.4oz 3sixteen Type 3
                                          25oz Samurai Type 1

                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • deadendproD
                                            deadendpro
                                            啓蒙家
                                            Joined:

                                            its really not as easy/simple as it sounds… here are some examples, then let me know if you still would want to try it.  😉

                                            Cultizm 09/10 contest- http://mynudies.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8590

                                            Take 5 x Denime 2 year contest (the one i'm in)- http://mynudies.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8898

                                            SUFUxSExDB- http://www.superfuture.com/supertalk/showthread.php?t=147585

                                            and this is one that has yet to be established completely, it takes a lot of time, money and communication to get these types of contests underway.

                                            http://www.superfuture.com/supertalk/showthread.php?t=184424

                                            Currently Wearing:
                                            SExSx3s 27-01
                                            15.4oz 3sixteen Type 3
                                            25oz Samurai Type 1

                                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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