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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    Are you a RAW (STF), Selvedge, un-sanforized loyalist ?

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    • SeulS
      Seul
      Joined:

      Biggest pet peeve with jeans = stretching… So mostly STFs are out of the question for me, unless you're talking Samurais who are obviously built in such a way that the fit stays perfect for a long(er) while...

      My first 'better' pair of jeans was a Levi's 501xx '47 (LVC) model btw, the ones made in the USA... Horrible, horrible jeans... No idea why they're so desired... Stretches like mad after 3-5 days of wear... And they cost almost as much as Sams in €urope... Imagine that...  😞

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • BeatleB
        Beatle
        Joined:

        most IH jeans are sanforized. 301s is sanforized, 634 is, too, SEXIH 03 is…one of the few that isn´t is the SEXIH 07 19 oz..
        sanforization is controlled shrinkage - doesn´t really effect the fading. The denim itself (dye, indigo, warp, weft or weight) are responsible for certain fading characteristics...such as whiskers, creasing, honeycombs or vertical falling

        We can do anything

        http://bybeatle.com

        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • GilesG
          Giles
          IHUK Crew
          Joined:

          634SR super-un-sanforised

          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • SeulS
            Seul
            Joined:

            What size are you?.. I'm getting rid of some pairs. Either how I'd suggest the Flat Head 3001/ 3010 or Samurai 710xx.

            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • deadendproD
              deadendpro
              啓蒙家
              Joined:

              @ simon- all jeans shrink just like all jeans stretch. However, there will be a LARGE different in shrinking with a wash/soak in an unsanforized pair as opposed to a sanforized pair. where in the san you might shrink .5 of an inch, in the unsanforized you can lose up to 1.5-2 (talking waist shrinking right now, i dont even wanna start with inseam  😞 ) But yeah, it all depends on the denim aswell. certain types of denim are crazy stretchers, think skulls, while other denims do the normal inch or so stretch.

              @seul- he wanted straight leg, those jeans are both slim; not to mention 3001 is discontinued.

              Currently Wearing:
              SExSx3s 27-01
              15.4oz 3sixteen Type 3
              25oz Samurai Type 1

              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • GilesG
                Giles
                IHUK Crew
                Joined:

                @deadendpro:

                @ simon- all jeans shrink just like all jeans stretch. However, there will be a LARGE different in shrinking with a wash/soak in an unsanforized pair as opposed to a sanforized pair. where in the san you might shrink .5 of an inch, in the unsanforized you can lose up to 1.5-2 (talking waist shrinking right now, i dont even wanna start with inseam  😞 ) But yeah, it all depends on the denim aswell. certain types of denim are crazy stretchers, think skulls, while other denims do the normal inch or so stretch.

                @seul- he wanted straight leg, those jeans are both slim; not to mention 3001 is discontinued.
                [/quote]

                I've still got some 3001 here

                "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • SeulS
                  Seul
                  Joined:

                  Why d'you want a straight leg Simon?.. You're thin, buy slim fits lad!..

                  I'm selling my Sams 710xx BK Black Knights… Drop me a PM if you're interested (32x34). Selling cause it's not getting any wear because of the SExIH07BKs...

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • deadendproD
                    deadendpro
                    啓蒙家
                    Joined:

                    @ giles- but i thought they were done with both that style and the f380? did you mean you have some stock left? cause if you do  😘 lol.

                    Currently Wearing:
                    SExSx3s 27-01
                    15.4oz 3sixteen Type 3
                    25oz Samurai Type 1

                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • GilesG
                      Giles
                      IHUK Crew
                      Joined:

                      @deadendpro:

                      @ giles- but i thought they were done with both that style and the f380? did you mean you have some stock left? cause if you do  😘 lol.

                      I may be confusing you.  I have Flat Head 3001 here, IH-301S are a Self Edge exclusive.  And whilst I get them made for Self Edge, I dio not sell them.

                      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • ?
                        Guest
                        Joined:

                        @deadendpro:

                        i feel like i'm ranting now, so i'll shut up.

                        I liked reading your ranting deadendpro. I learned something…

                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • ?
                          Guest
                          Joined:

                          I think the shrink-to-fit thing in raw denim is what makes the attraction. It is true that they will conform to your body better, especially if you get the sizing right and actually let them shrink and dry on your body (the drying part is more important). Getting the sizing right means to be able to anticipate both shrinkage and stretch so that they will be just right afterwards. Usually it takes some trial and error with the same model unless you get lucky. And the dry on body process is really only recommended if you live somewhere so warm where you can lay in the sun and let it dry on your body without getting an infection or a cold.

                          Of course, you can get lucky with sanforized jeans, too. I think the 9634 is the best fitting pair I have out of a dozen or so. They are marvelous. As long as the fit and the quality are right, I don't care if it's raw or not.

                          Simon, if you just want to experiment a little with raw jeans get yourself into a pair of 501 STF. The Verde Rigid model has a really beautiful green cast. They look very stylish. I think I paid $35 for mine. Have not seen a single other person with those jeans on the UT campus of 50,000 students.

                          Till

                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • deadendproD
                            deadendpro
                            啓蒙家
                            Joined:

                            Thanks shub.

                            @ giles- i know that the 301s and the 9301 are two styles that are exclusive to self edge, but i was under the impression, although i think i had heard it right (Ginno from self edge), that the 3001, F310 and F380 are now no longer in production. So what i had meant to say when you said that you had Flat Head 3001's is that i was wondering if you meant in stock with you or if you meant that you still get them from Flat Head and they were actually still in production. I think i may have muddled the water a bit much but i hope this time i got it a tad bit clearer.  :-\

                            Currently Wearing:
                            SExSx3s 27-01
                            15.4oz 3sixteen Type 3
                            25oz Samurai Type 1

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • ?
                              Guest
                              Joined:

                              @simon626:

                              Okay, on the topic of being a loyalist, Right now i'm kinda bent on never buying anything that isn't IH or TW denim-wise. The problem is, this loyalty doesn't come without it's royalty tax. 300+ dollars per pair of jeans really isn't easy for me to come by. I've decided that i am in DIRE need of a pair of straight raws. The thing is, do i just save until i have enough money to buy from a brand that i know i will LOVEEEEEEEEEEEEE, or should i opt for a cheaper pair that fills my necessity yet is a little less burdening on my wallet?

                              I was referring to this post of yours. Certainly, the standard $35 501 STF stand no comparison to the $300 IH jeans but they are nice jeans in their own right, the color is great (you get to choose from like six to eight shades) and you can experiment a bit with fit and the right STF technique. Besides, many of the Japanese jeans are 501 repros in one way or another. Mine last on average 4 years but my rotation is large and I don't get them repaired. I just trade them down for sloppy look, yard work, outdoor activity or paint projects.

                              As far as asking a sales person for fit, this is where Giles and Kiya really shine. I find that the average sales person will tell you n'importe quoi or outright admit they have no clue (which is preferable).

                              Till

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • GilesG
                                Giles
                                IHUK Crew
                                Joined:

                                @deadendpro:

                                Thanks shub.

                                @ giles- i know that the 301s and the 9301 are two styles that are exclusive to self edge, but i was under the impression, although i think i had heard it right (Ginno from self edge), that the 3001, F310 and F380 are now no longer in production. So what i had meant to say when you said that you had Flat Head 3001's is that i was wondering if you meant in stock with you or if you meant that you still get them from Flat Head and they were actually still in production. I think i may have muddled the water a bit much but i hope this time i got it a tad bit clearer.  :-\

                                TFH 3001 still being produced, and i have a few pairs in stock.  F series not being made any longer, though I still have a few F380's here.

                                "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • deadendproD
                                  deadendpro
                                  啓蒙家
                                  Joined:

                                  @simon- i'm sorry to say it, but N&F is mediocre at best man. do yourself a huge favor and pass on that. Its worth it to get one really nice item instead of getting something early and not having that itch that burns a hole in your pocket. Trust me, i have done these things before, and you will have buyers regret when you go back online and think to yourself "man, i should have waited and gotten my 634s/301s/3001s etc.." you know? i'm just trying to give you my honest opinion man.

                                  @giles- Oh really???? dope! ok, so its just the Frontier series that isnt being made anymore. ok, i get it now. cool, thanks giles.

                                  Currently Wearing:
                                  SExSx3s 27-01
                                  15.4oz 3sixteen Type 3
                                  25oz Samurai Type 1

                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • GilesG
                                    Giles
                                    IHUK Crew
                                    Joined:

                                    Yep. G

                                    "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • GilesG
                                      Giles
                                      IHUK Crew
                                      Joined:

                                      Take a look at the 5100:

                                      http://www.flat-head.co.uk/html/Specials.html

                                      A little more than the 8005A, but a classic straight cut and you won't have to bugger around with the cinch..  G

                                      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • deadendproD
                                        deadendpro
                                        啓蒙家
                                        Joined:

                                        if Giles had anything with old arcs and tabs, in my size, for a deal  😞 dude, its not a matter of how much its a matter of how long till it gets here!

                                        and to touch on the nudie v FH, people buy nudies because they have all the modern, slim, hipster cuts. Flat head is a bit higher up on the food chain with premium denim and quality material and construction. Just depends on what you are looking to pay for. Def look into those 5100's tho… lucky, they have your size

                                        Currently Wearing:
                                        SExSx3s 27-01
                                        15.4oz 3sixteen Type 3
                                        25oz Samurai Type 1

                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • D
                                          drz
                                          Joined:

                                          As long as it's Indigo dyed, I'm loyal, no matter it's unsanforized or sanforized. I don't know why I don't like black denim.

                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • DougNgD
                                            DougNg
                                            Joined:

                                            Simon, you might want to take a look at Kicking Mule Workshop for straight leg raw denim. There are a couple deals out there to be had. I vaguely remember paying around $100 on Revolve

                                            It's a great denim with a nice weight that's natural indigo dyed

                                            I know violence is not the answer, I got it wrong on purpose

                                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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