Union Special 43200G - Chain Stitching in UK
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Hi,
Let me introduce myself. My name's Cary, I'm a long time denim fan and have spent quite alot of time in the past few years trying to get my hand on a Union Special that can do a proper chainstitched hem. Earlier in the year I managed to get hold of a 43200G from the 1950's. It's a fabulous machine and I've now got it running really pretty well.
I'm currently waiting on the delivery of various types of thread including 100% cotton (thanks to Giles for his assistance in this matter).
In the meantime I'll be starting to offer the service in the next week or so using a poly cotton mix as is used by LVC and Flathead on the F series jeans.
I'll post some pics later. In the meantime if you have any questions please feel free to email me.
Cheers
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This is fantastic news, good work Cary on attaining something that was long overdue on these shores. One question just how much would the service cost?
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on my 634S's about 1/2 an inch above hem I am getting some serious wear (as the jeans are long‚ when I wear with no shoes indoors‚ I crush the bottoms). Do I get taken-up and chainstiched before a hole appears (as has been the case on a number of other brands) I really like the current length with a shoe but I guess an inch less aint gonna matter too much.
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3 options:
- Send to Kiya to get get reinforced on his new super-duper machine
- Ditto IHHQ
- As my son would say "live with it"
I have the same thing happening with a pair of mine. I have decided that when I next wash then (could be a while), I'll ship back to IHHQ for a re-furb.
G
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if you're sure u want to use a great pair like the Oni's for shorts - go for it…
We can do anything
http://bybeatle.com -
on my 634S's about 1/2 an inch above hem I am getting some serious wear (as the jeans are long‚ when I wear with no shoes indoors‚ I crush the bottoms). Do I get taken-up and chainstiched before a hole appears (as has been the case on a number of other brands) I really like the current length with a shoe but I guess an inch less aint gonna matter too much.
What Giles said. Additionally, and to push out any need to take action, you could simply cuff them up when you are wearing them without shoes. At home it doesn't really matter, no? This way you don't step on them anymore.
Don't know how long they are. If they are severely stacked already an inch wouldn't matter at all. I think a good length for jeans is a tad longer than dress trousers. Dress pants should have one fold/stack above your foot and hang straight down to the heel. The hem should ideally be right where the shoe's heel (sole) starts. This will also work for jeans but the look is kind of very strict and stuck up. So if you go about half an inch longer than that, I think you get an optimal length for jeans; at least for my taste.
Can you try it out at home in front of a long mirror like what they do at the tailor's? This way you know if you'd cut off too much. On the 634S you should get only minimal shrink if at all, or so I hear. So a hot wash won't help you and might just make them too tight on top.
Giles, how would the reinforcement work? I thought of that, too, but wondered what they'd actually do. Sew another jeans patch to it from the inside? Or just a piece of pocket cloth? Could be done with a blind stitch by hand without anything being visible from the outside. Would take about an hour or less for someone skilled (not me!).
Till
Only way they'd get some wear...