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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    The (Less intimidating) Watch Thread

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    • neph93N
      neph93
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      Can anyone tell me the significance of the two tone blue/red bezel I keep seeing on certain types (divers?) of watches?

      «Stevie Heighway on the wing!
      We had dreams, and songs to sing…»

      • Dame Vera Lynn
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      • den1mheadD
        den1mhead
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        It is associated with the Rolex GMT Master and is known as the Pepsi bezel for obvs reasons. The bezel represents 60 minutes of air time in the divers air canister so one half represents 30 minutes and the other half represents 30 minutes. I guess at a glance, depending on which colour segment you were in you could gauge whether you had 30-60 mins or 0-30 mins. If it was the latter then I suggest you would look at the numbers on the bezel to see exactly how many minutes of air you had remaining before you drowned [emoji106]

        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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        • neph93N
          neph93
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          @den1mhead:

          It … is known as the Pepsi bezel ...

          Thank you, sir. That bit of info enabled a much more effective and revealing google search  🙂

          «Stevie Heighway on the wing!
          We had dreams, and songs to sing…»

          • Dame Vera Lynn
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          • JDelageJ
            JDelage
            啓蒙家
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            I am not sure it has anything to do with air time, as tanks and people vary, and consumption varies with depth and activity. I've always felt it was a way to mark night & day on a 24hr bezel.

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            • den1mheadD
              den1mhead
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              You are so correct @JDelage, my bad, as the GMT is an aviators watch so it is 24 hours not 60 minutes on the bezel. I had a GMT Master ll that now belongs to the wife so how could I forget. With the normal time, the 24 hour hand and the bezel an aviator is able to set 3 different time zones on the GMT / GMT ll. The dive time / 60 minutes bezel refers to the submariner and the sea dweller

              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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              • neph93N
                neph93
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                I've taken a break from using enormous amounts of bandwidth on perusing watches recently, but have come back to it the last couple of days to find I'm even more enamoured of Hamilton watches… Even the fugly ones are fascinating and attractive in a utilitarian way.

                «Stevie Heighway on the wing!
                We had dreams, and songs to sing…»

                • Dame Vera Lynn
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                • ChrisC
                  Chris
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                  Never liked internal bezels.  Not sure why.

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                  • neph93N
                    neph93
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                    It’s a different design dynamic for sure. I think that’s what I find a little fugly about it, but the aluminium casing, NATO strap and colour makes the whole thing work. Looks like something you’d find abandoned around Chernobyl.

                    «Stevie Heighway on the wing!
                    We had dreams, and songs to sing…»

                    • Dame Vera Lynn
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                    • madmondayM
                      madmonday
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                      @elickser:

                      @elickser love it, looking for one without a date window

                      head high, middle finger higher

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                      • neph93N
                        neph93
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                        @Stuart.T:

                        This is currently getting me to places on time

                        Stuart, what’s the diameter of this watch? I still can’t work out if 42-44mm is going to be too chunky for me.

                        «Stevie Heighway on the wing!
                        We had dreams, and songs to sing…»

                        • Dame Vera Lynn
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                        • ChrisC
                          Chris
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                          42 would not, 44 might be.  Really depends on your attitude about it.

                          Rocket's U1 is 44mm, if you can remember how it looked on his wrist.

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                          • den1mheadD
                            den1mhead
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                            @neph93 both of these are 44mm and I have slim wrists and (long monkey) arms

                            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                            • neph93N
                              neph93
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                              That’s very helpful B, thank you for taking the time (Oooh, pun!).

                              «Stevie Heighway on the wing!
                              We had dreams, and songs to sing…»

                              • Dame Vera Lynn
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                              • Stuart.TS
                                Stuart.T
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                                @neph93  it's a 44 I believe (but I'm not completely sure). I've never really checked spec to in-depth. I think watches, like shoes/boots for me are best bought in person generally (availability pending).

                                This Seiko was about £295 and it is a work horse. It's one of their kinetic self wonders, I wear it everyday and I have to say it's not lost a minute in 3 years

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                                • GraemeG
                                  Graeme
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                                  @neph93 I'm pretty certain you'd be fine with a 44mm watch. Provided the lugs don't reach past the edge of your wrist, it'll work.

                                  The best thing to do would be go down to your local dealership, try on things at a similar size, and see what sort of fit works. I quite like Hodinkee-approved 36mm pieces, but also get on with something huge like the Omega Ploprof. For some reason, 39mm is the diameter I like least. 😛

                                  If I was going for an everyday piece, I'd be after one that's not too big, and not too thick. Say a 40mm with no more than 12mm thickness. It'll be easier to wear, and not snag on cuffs.

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                                  • ChrisC
                                    Chris
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                                    @Graeme:

                                    If I was going for an everyday piece, I'd be after one that's not too big, and not too thick. Say a 40mm with no more than 12mm thickness. It'll be easier to wear, and not snag on cuffs.

                                    This is good advice.  Over the years, I've come to the realization that the watches that annoy me aren't the ones with the largest diameter, but are the ones that are the tallest on the wrist.  Constantly catching on sleeves, banging into doorways and counters, that's what causes me to not wear one.

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                                    • JDelageJ
                                      JDelage
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                                      The height is less of a problem on watches that present a smooth, rounded profile to the shirt cuff, or a series of steps (as is the case with a box domed crystal). I find that even a reasonable height of 13mm will be a pain in the neck if the watch presents a flat "cliff".

                                      Aggressive dive bezels can also be a problem.

                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • neph93N
                                        neph93
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                                        @Graeme apologies mate, I've asked about this before due to my lack of knowledge regarding watch sizes before and you wrote the same considered, sensible response then. This was more of a selfish whine caused by too much internet watch interaction and not enough real world experience. Sorry to have wasted your time.

                                        That being said, the discourse about height that it engendered has been useful to me, thank you @JDelage @Chris . Everything I'm interested in is around 10-11mm, with the exception of dressier watches that come in around 8mm and that last Hamilton I posted that goes to 13mm (and isn't really on my list anyway).

                                        I'm going to get something around 40-42mm I think. My wrist isn't small but I wear jewellery there so the watch will have company.

                                        «Stevie Heighway on the wing!
                                        We had dreams, and songs to sing…»

                                        • Dame Vera Lynn
                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • DougNgD
                                          DougNg
                                          Joined:

                                          The distance between the top and bottom lugs generally is a better measure if a watch will look "too big" on your wrist.

                                          The SKX seems smaller on the wrist than a Seamaster, even though it's 1.5mm larger in diameter side to side.

                                          Personally my sweet spot is 40mm for a watch without a diving bezel, 42 with a diving bezel.

                                          A 42mm+ without a diving bezel on my wrist starts to look like a pie pan.

                                          I know violence is not the answer, I got it wrong on purpose

                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • DougNgD
                                            DougNg
                                            Joined:

                                            @Chris

                                            Internal rotating bezels remind me of that ride in the carnival when it spins around and you stick to the walls. I don't personally care for them either.

                                            I know violence is not the answer, I got it wrong on purpose

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