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Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

Loop-wheeled What is it?

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  • S
    SpaceGnome
    Joined: 18 Apr 2012

    Please forgive me if this is covered elsewhere….

    Why are these more desirable, and more expensive? 
    FWIW, my IH tee is heads and tails more substantial and better made than any other shirt I own, but whats the dirt behind the method of construction?

    last edited by 30 Aug 2012, 07:17 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
    • R
      rocket
      Joined: 6 Jan 2011

      some background info can be found in here:

      http://www.loopwheeler.co.jp/en/origin/makeit_w1.html

      http://thesavile.com/JANUARY-2011/11/keeping-pace

      http://www.sneakerfreaker.com/articles/Nike-Loop-Wheel-Interview/

      http://www.facebook.com/note.php?note_id=60763593211

      http://knowyourlegends.blogspot.de/2009/09/loopwheel-of-fortuneonly-in-japan.html

      http://mynudies.com/showthread.php?11887-Loop-wheeled-cotton-fabric-from-sweats-to-Ts

      rocketrocksrox 🤙🏼🤙🏾

      It's all humbug, like everywhere
      R.I.P. Geo

      last edited by 30 Aug 2012, 08:46 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • S
        Sugar Mountain
        Joined: 18 Jan 2012

        And here: http://www.ironheart.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=973.0

        last edited by 30 Aug 2012, 08:49 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • G
          Giles
          IHUK Crew
          Joined: 22 Sept 2009

          In the 1920’s through to the 1960’s loopwheeled fabric was relatively common, but the complexity and almost glacial slowness of production caused the industry to almost disappear and for most of the machines to be scrapped. Now, most loopwheeled fabric made in the world today is made in the Wakayama Prefecture of Japan.  There is just only exception to this that I know of and that is Merz b. Schwanen in Germany (I will discuss this in more detail later).

          The loopwheeled machines are actually circular knitting machines that knit “tubes” of fabric, the only tension used in the knitting process is gravity, the end result being a knitted fabric with virtually no inbuilt stress or tension. A loopwheel machine rotates at just 24 revolutions  per minute, a modern knitting machine in excess of 10 times that.  Each machine is only able to knit enough fabric for about 8 -10 shirts per day and can only knit a tube of a fixed diameter, so each size finished Tee or Sweat shirt is actually woven on a different sized machine. Apart from the knitted fabric feeling incredibly soft, it also allows shirts to be made with no side seams.  Sweats and tee’s made out of loopwheeled fabric are necessarily expensive, but look better and last longer than anything else.

          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

          last edited by 9 Apr 2012, 11:19 4 Sept 2012, 10:39 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • M
            MikeC
            Banned
            Joined: 7 Nov 2011

            I'm a little confused regarding the difference of Loopwheeled and circular knitting machines. Merz B Schwanen claims that they use antique circular knitting machines, but never mention loopwheel.

            last edited by 4 Sept 2012, 10:44 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • G
              Giles
              IHUK Crew
              Joined: 22 Sept 2009

              Interesting.  I have asked Haraki and co to comment.  All the research I have done suggests that there are only about 200 loopwheeled machines left and they are all in Japan.  But it may be a case of them (and me) believing their own hype….

              "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

              last edited by 4 Sept 2012, 10:53 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • G
                Giles
                IHUK Crew
                Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                MikeC.  I have spoken to Roger Hatt from VMC as they stock Merz b. Schwanen.  He confirms that they use what we would call loopwheeled machines, but they don't call them that. Thanks.  I have updated the first post.

                "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                last edited by 9 Jul 2012, 16:58 4 Sept 2012, 11:21 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • J
                  Jpo1932
                  Joined: 3 Jul 2010

                  Otherwise it's pretty much the same machines you see in Wakayama? (sans it being a German manufacture)

                  last edited by 4 Sept 2012, 11:23 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • M
                    MikeC
                    Banned
                    Joined: 7 Nov 2011

                    Nice, now I know where to get light weight Loopwheeled tees. Thanks Roger & G.

                    last edited by 4 Sept 2012, 11:25 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • M
                      MikeC
                      Banned
                      Joined: 7 Nov 2011

                      Here is a pic of the machines Merz B Schwanen uses:

                      last edited by 4 Sept 2012, 11:27 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • G
                        Giles
                        IHUK Crew
                        Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                        @Jpo1932:

                        Otherwise it's pretty much the same machines you see in Wakayama? (sans it being a German manufacture)

                        I suspect they are all made by the same company.  And it's probably US.

                        "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                        last edited by 4 Sept 2012, 11:29 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • G
                          Giles
                          IHUK Crew
                          Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                          last edited by 4 Sept 2012, 11:55 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • G
                            Giles
                            IHUK Crew
                            Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                            Here's the head of one that Flat Head own….

                            "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                            last edited by 5 Sept 2012, 16:42 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • JCar2666J
                              JCar2666
                              Joined: 8 Apr 2012

                              That is one gnarly looking machine

                              last edited by 5 Sept 2012, 23:31 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • topic:timeago-later,9 days
                              • madmondayM
                                madmonday
                                Raw and Unwashed
                                Joined: 13 Oct 2009

                                great links rock(it) a lot of useful information

                                head high, middle finger higher

                                last edited by 15 Sept 2012, 11:28 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • S
                                  SpaceGnome
                                  Joined: 18 Apr 2012

                                  yea, thanks 🙂
                                  although I hate to say it, it seems that loop wheeled construction is more nostalgic than serving a purpose.

                                  last edited by 18 Sept 2012, 05:28 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • scroogenS
                                    scroogen
                                    Joined: 30 Nov 2011

                                    I think the loop wheel machines make a much higher quality fabric than projectile looms. One of these old knitting machines is like a mechanical old lady. She is an expert knitter with only one purpose.  This is like the terminator of knitting sweaters. Probably the only thing better is an actual human doing it. I'm not trying to suggest that other machines aren't making quality fabric. But the reason that most companies don't mess with these machines is because they are just too slow. They can't keep up with demand.  So they are not as profitable…..

                                    last edited by 18 Sept 2012, 08:07 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • FOXYF
                                      FOXY
                                      Joined: 14 Mar 2011

                                      @scroogen:

                                      I think the loop wheel machines make a much higher quality fabric than projectile looms. One of these old knitting machines is like a mechanical old lady. She is an expert knitter with only one purpose.  This is like the terminator of knitting sweaters. Probably the only thing better is an actual human doing it. I'm not trying to suggest that other machines aren't making quality fabric. But the reason that most companies don't mess with these machines is because they are just too slow. They can't keep up with demand.  So they are not as profitable…..

                                      I guess you wanted to compare ancient circular knitting machines (loop wheel machines and others) with modern circular machines and not with modern day weaving machines (projectile looms).

                                      For knits you have basically 2 options:

                                      • circular knits
                                      • flatbed knits

                                      The majority these days is done on circular machines with tubes of a wider diameter and cut open, straightened and set for further processing like cutting and sewing - the ancient machines (loop wheel and other) are much slower, but the mechanics of how the loops are formed are the same compared to modern day machines.

                                      The differences between the machines at Merz b. Schwanen and the loop wheel machines in Japan are marginal - in Germany the name "Loop Wheel" was not commonly used for this type of machine ("Rundstrickmachine" which is much more generic).

                                      There was a significant industry in Saxony and Frankonia that specialized on underwear and hosiery that managed to survive well after the WW2 - this is probably the tradition the machines at Merz b. Schwanen originate from…

                                      Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

                                      last edited by 18 Sept 2012, 17:21 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • scroogenS
                                        scroogen
                                        Joined: 30 Nov 2011

                                        I guess you wanted to compare ancient circular knitting machines (loop wheel machines and others) with modern circular machines and not with modern day weaving machines (projectile looms).

                                        Right.  I think the big difference between the older machines, and the more modern ones is speed and amount of tension. 
                                        Really I just don't buy the nostalgia thing (this does play into it though).  I think they make a higher quality fabric with less regard to 'How much can we pump out?'
                                        can we really refer to these machines as ancient though… weren't they in use through the 50's?

                                        last edited by 18 Sept 2012, 18:06 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • S
                                          SpaceGnome
                                          Joined: 18 Apr 2012

                                          I hear your Scroogen, but I have yet to read or see any concrete evidence that supports that they are a better fabric.  I based the nostalgic comment off of what Foxy said in the Mynudies link.  I do not mean to speak for him, but he seems pretty hip to this kind of thing.

                                          last edited by 18 Sept 2012, 22:45 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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