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    New Denim - Iron Heart Germany Exclusive - IH-684S-16-GER

    Ask Giles and/or Alex Anything

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    • DeeDee85D
      DeeDee85
      啓蒙家
      @Alex
      Joined:

      @Alex no problem, thank you for the info. Fabric from the IHJ-142 for a 21oz indigo serge CPO it is then? 😂

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • ?
        A Former User
        @DeeDee85
        Joined:

        @DeeDee85 said in Ask Giles and/or Alex Anything:

        Will the 13oz serge shirts make a return at any point? @Alex

        big fan of these too. an overdyed one would be great

        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
        • AetasA
          Aetas
          見習いボス
          @endo
          Joined:

          @endo said in Ask Giles and/or Alex Anything:

          Bildschirmfoto 2025-07-12 um 11.37.16.png

          when is this patch from?

          This is a beautiful patch. First time I saw it on the IHJ-25 - Blanket Lined Chino Cloth Tanker Jacket around 2014. But as Giles said, it is quite a bit older @endo.

          IMG_2451.jpeg

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 3
          • endoE
            endo
            見習いボス
            Joined:

            now I want this jacket

            si tacuisses

            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
            • BridgerB
              Bridger
              Raw and Unwashed
              Joined:

              Is that the jacket Pete Mitchell wore at Miramar?

              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
              • trubyT
                truby
                Haraki san Prodigy
                Joined:

                Yo, 😉

                Do you even think about competition in business? Like do you view other Japanese denim brands as competitors?

                He has made my feet like hinds' feet

                last edited by truby AlexA 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                • jordanscollectedJ
                  jordanscollected
                  啓蒙家
                  Joined:

                  @Alex do you view your retailers as more of a distribution channel than a showroom/physical store/ for your products? It seems like in the U.S., most of the product releases rarely hit the store shelf at the retailers and may even be seen as a "disappointment" if they do.

                  The retailers advertise the drop just like IHUK, set a release date and time and go live online and lots of stuff sell out instantly just like IHUK releases.

                  My first example is ISP selling the N1. Having both locations in Southern Louisiana would make it hard for them to sell in store to local customers.

                  not sure if i'm wording this correctly, and not trying to sound like a dick, just curious on the business model

                  world tours:
                  888 Fat guy chocolate WT
                  Mad Red x2
                  Wabidashery

                  last edited by AlexA 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • BrandreaB
                    Brandrea
                    Raw and Unwashed
                    Joined:

                    Further to a couple of the posts above …

                    Do you ever think about opening flagship boutique stores? Obviously you’d have to assess the demand but I’d think by now you might have some decent data by sales region. Purely a selfish though on my part, but I wonder if a market like Toronto would support it?

                    last edited by AlexA 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • AlexA
                      Alex
                      IHUK Crew
                      @truby
                      Joined:

                      @truby sorry I missed this before - no, not really - if all the small Japanese denim brands grow and succeed together, its better for everyone. The biggest competition we face is large (non-Japanese, non-denim) brands wanting to make Japanese selvedge denim because it's now 'cool', and the pressure that puts on the mills we also want to use.

                      last edited by trubyT 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 4
                      • AlexA
                        Alex
                        IHUK Crew
                        @jordanscollected
                        Joined:

                        @jordanscollected hi Jeff, sorry for the slow reply - was flying back from Japan.

                        No, that is not how we see the retailer business at all, that is definitely how it seems at the moment, given the relative speed of sell-through everyone has, but not the intention. Far better for us to sell directly to an American than to sell to them via a retailer from a profit margin perspective, so it is certainly not the intention to just have them essentially act as drop shippers for us.

                        I think the demand for Iron Heart is higher then we all anticipated, and we are spread a little too thinly currently with total volume across all the outlets we sell to. We need to work out how to improve things so that the shops that stock iron Heart, and we ourselves, can carry at least core product for longer, rather than having this rapid sell through model

                        last edited by jordanscollectedJ KarolK 2 Replies Last reply Reply Quote 4
                        • AlexA
                          Alex
                          IHUK Crew
                          @Brandrea
                          Joined:

                          @Brandrea its not something that we have considered much recently, purley down to the fact that we don't have enough supply to service the demand of a new outlet, let alone an Iron Heart flagship

                          last edited by BrandreaB 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                          • BrandreaB
                            Brandrea
                            Raw and Unwashed
                            @Alex
                            Joined:

                            @Alex That makes sense. Sometimes “bigger isn’t better”. The Iron Heart ethos really resonates with your customer base. The scarcity factor may just be a small part of that 👍

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                            • jordanscollectedJ
                              jordanscollected
                              啓蒙家
                              @Alex
                              Joined:

                              @Alex I know there are certain things i wasn't able to purchase to do release timing and availability. It's somewhat frustrating, and somewhat a relief depending on the item that slipped away. We don't have much time to contemplate an item, and that can be a help or hinderance.

                              Thank you for the thoughtful response as always.

                              world tours:
                              888 Fat guy chocolate WT
                              Mad Red x2
                              Wabidashery

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • KarolK
                                Karol
                                啓蒙家
                                @Alex
                                Joined:

                                @Alex said in Ask Giles and/or Alex Anything:

                                @jordanscollected hi Jeff, sorry for the slow reply - was flying back from Japan.

                                No, that is not how we see the retailer business at all, that is definitely how it seems at the moment, given the relative speed of sell-through everyone has, but not the intention. Far better for us to sell directly to an American than to sell to them via a retailer from a profit margin perspective, so it is certainly not the intention to just have them essentially act as drop shippers for us.

                                I think the demand for Iron Heart is higher then we all anticipated, and we are spread a little too thinly currently with total volume across all the outlets we sell to. We need to work out how to improve things so that the shops that stock iron Heart, and we ourselves, can carry at least core product for longer, rather than having this rapid sell through model

                                Yes, Yes and Yes, strategy wise!!!

                                Favorite:
                                IH-888S-21 | IH-888-XHSib | IH-805 | IH-729-PUR | IH-555-SST-BLK | IH-555S-25MB
                                IHSH-339-SAX | IHSH-293-OD | IHSH-362-BLK | IHSH-409-IB | IHSH-336-OD | IHSB-BIGBUCK-BLK | IHSB-PR-NAT
                                IHV-44-BLK | IHV-02-BLK
                                IHJ-75-BLK | IHJ-79-BLK | IHM-37-ODG

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • trubyT
                                  truby
                                  Haraki san Prodigy
                                  @Alex
                                  Joined:

                                  @Alex pressure on the mills huh. Why don’t you guys with all your success buy the mills?

                                  He has made my feet like hinds' feet

                                  last edited by goosehdG GilesG 2 Replies Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • goosehdG
                                    goosehd
                                    Mod Squad
                                    @truby
                                    Joined:

                                    @truby Yes, you are correct in that Iron Heart is successful. They pay fair wages to everyone involved, make good products that we enjoy, and have a brand reputation that’s hard to match in the denim community.

                                    Does that success give them the ability to just buy mills and factories? Not my place to say yes or no.

                                    When @Giles started this, he worked out of a room in his house and slowly moved to a single unit to base
                                    the operation. That wasn’t that long ago….

                                    They have grown and do well. I appreciate what they have done and continue to do. @Alex has done a fantastic job taking over the reigns of the business and I look forward to seeing where he goes with this.

                                    As he mentioned, there needs to be a balance between the wants and desires of the community and what can be made without breaking the supply chain.

                                    I trust in his leadership and abilities and know the future is in great hands.

                                    "I don't give a shit what anyone else is doing, we will do what is best for us and our customers" - Giles P. :)

                                    last edited by todyT 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 6
                                    • todyT
                                      tody
                                      啓蒙家
                                      @goosehd
                                      Joined:

                                      @goosehd also, to add on that - how many mills with vintage looms are currently for sale in japan?

                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                                      • S
                                        sabergirl
                                        見習いボス
                                        Joined:

                                        And, as another aside: would buying the mills remove access to weave good denim and make good clothes from the other Japanese brands? Don’t see there being any benefit for the market, there. Maybe in the removal of competition I suppose, but there’s really no comparison as their style is different. Can’t see controlling all that chain as being a benefit.

                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
                                        • GilesG
                                          Giles
                                          IHUK Crew
                                          @truby
                                          Joined:

                                          @truby said in Ask Giles and/or Alex Anything:

                                          @Alex pressure on the mills huh. Why don’t you guys with all your success buy the mills?

                                          We have no interest in running mills. It is not what we are good at (for that read, we know fuck-all about running a mill).

                                          A few years ago, we had the notion that we could fit out a workshop and make shirts, I mean, how difficult could it be? We spent a shit ton on machines, sewed up one set of UHF's (the original 101 and 102-TG's), they were made so badly we had to recall them all. We sold the workshop and slinked off into the sunset with our tail between our legs.

                                          Haraki is amazing at designing stuff, selecting the mills to make the fabric and selecting the workshops to do the sewing.

                                          IHUK is fantastic at building a brand, creating customer and retailer loyalty, specifying product that will resonate with our customer base and marketing.

                                          We don't know how to make fabric and stuff.

                                          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                          last edited by SKTS JordJ 2 Replies Last reply Reply Quote 11
                                          • SKTS
                                            SKT
                                            見習いボス
                                            @Giles
                                            Joined:

                                            @Giles I really love this kind of insight into the world of IH, thanks for posting.

                                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
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